Purchasing ignition parts..

[Blackcatstrat]

So, I am having some issues when purchasing ignition parts for my Challenger..
It's a 73 with a 340 and factory Ralley package.

Go to buy a ballast resistor and all the parts stores say it takes a 2 post..
I have a four..

Go to get an ignition module, they say here is a 4 post unit...
I have a 5 post...

The car is pretty original and doesn't seem to have been changed or converted..doesn't seem to have been anyway...
I checked for 72-74 same deal regardless of engine...

Anyone else have this issue? If so whats the deal?

Hope everyone's holidays

Jer

 

[moaparman25]

I got replacements for ally factory ignition stuff from advance auto parts, everything was correct and swapped right into my 73 340 chally

 

[Blackcatstrat]

Thats where I was at, does your car have the 2 post resistor and the 4 post module?
My wiring schematic seems accurate to what I have and its for a 73.
Is there a difference because its a Ralley I wounder?
Many thanks for the reply.
Jer

I got replacements for ally factory ignition stuff from advance auto parts, everything was correct and swapped right into my 73 340 chally

 

[Adam]

I think the 5th wire is not used. A four pin unit will work. The only difference I can think of on a Rally dash car is a white wire for the tach..it goes to the coil and has nothing to do with the ignition pins.. try Rockauto online for the ballast.

I found this thread after a quick search..http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1580511

 

[Blackcatstrat]

Thanks Adam!

 

[js29]

i will bet the counter help is a lot younger than your car is.

 

[Blackcatstrat]

LOL...Wish I could say that...

I stopped at Napa and they gave me the same information.
So I got a ballast from a 74-75? Charger and a module from a 75 Valarie or Cordoba cant remember what it was from.
As Adam had shared I probably could have run the 4 post module but I am an anal ocd son~***** so if there was a 5 in there than damn it a 5 was going back in..its a sickness.
Once I put the new module in the old girl fired right up.
I just got the car put back together and running after 10 years.
Was running fine than one day no start. wtf..
I went to town on that bulk head connector and all the wires while the engine was out...what could go wrong?
Wasn't getting spark at the coil at cranking, ended up there was no juice coming from the I2 term on the ignition switch, well it wasn't making it through the bulk head connector...ya shocker I know...
Got that fixed and got power to the coil at cranking and run but no secondary spark out of the coil....
Checked the coil and was in spec but put a good spare on there anyway including the coil wire...checked the reluctor gap and dizzy pickup all good.
Checked all the voltages and values at every point in the ignition circut, grounds etc..all good.
The Ignition module had to be the issue...ok ya I was crossing my fingers some...
Anyway starts good now...
Good to hear the old b@#thch run again.

Jer

i will bet the counter help is a lot younger than your car is.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

The 4 pin ECU uses the same plug but they moved the resistor inside the ECU where it should have been all along so 4 & 5 pin will interchange & look no different once the plug is on , the 4 prong ballast drops power to the 5th pin on the ecu so again either the 4 prong or 2 prong will work for you as the second side of the 4 prong ballast is no longer used But you have to make ssure the 2 prong ballst is used on the blue & brown wire side not the blue & green side

 

[Blackcatstrat]

Thanks Chryco, that is excellent information!
Very cool.

Jer

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Glad to help !