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Sniper issues- pink wire help please

70cuda50

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I am electrically challenged but my mechanic is electrically savvy but we are stuck. I have Sniper with hyperspark distributor, hyperspark ignition box, and HSpark coil.(and Holley Efi tank/ in tank pump). Internally regulated, single wire alternator and Dakota digital dash resulting in mostly gutting original setup. A ton of wire harness mods up to this point resulting in all electrical systems and dash functioning. Fuel pump runs and primes TB but no spark. Apparently no volts in start position. Not exactly sure how pink was wired and I know my guy tried relay Holley suggested without success.
Does anyone use the SAME setup or can throw us a clue. Greatly appreciated. And yes I have read practically every sniper post on a lot of sites But a bit overwhelming since so many varied setups to try to understand.
 

Chryco Psycho

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you need 2 wires , there is a blue & brown wire coming from the ignition switch on the column , blue is 13v feed for run & brown is 13v feed while cranking , these both need to be connected to trip the relay & power the EFI .
 

Iguana

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I can't specifically help on that wire because I had mine installed by a shop. But by chance do you have an aftermarket steering column? I was told my Sniper would not work with my iDidIt column without a very specific relay that iDidIt ended up providing.
 

70cuda50

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Thank you. The blue and brown ended up being removed. a 90 minute call with Holley while real time options were tried may have solved problem. I‘ll post again when get real story from my mechanic.
 

md73Cuda

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Hi guys, I'm trying to get my 73 Cuda running and seem to have a similar problem as 70Cuda50. After tons of research I think I have the answer but could use some help verifying it. I have the Sniper, hyperspark distributor, coil driver and standard round coil. I've eliminated the ballast and ignition box and therefore need another way to send power to the coil and the 3 pink sniper wires.

Correct me if I'm wrong... I can send IGN 1 and IGN 2 (blue and brown) both to post 86 on relay, send wire from + battery (fused) to post 30, ground wire to post 85 and 87 goes out to "where ever"...

Questions;
What kind of relay, does it matter, amps?
How many amps for fuse from battery?
Can I use ONE relay to send power to all 3 pink wires AND the coil?
Anything I'm missing?

Thanks for any help you can give!
 

Chryco Psycho

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Typically relays are rated for 30 amps , this should be plenty to supply the needed power to all of the ign system through 1 relay .
Yes blue & brown can connect to # 86 , 87 would go to ground , battery power fused can run to 85 so 30 can feed the ign components .
Fuse should be OK at 25 amps from the battery
 

72RoadRunnerGTX

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Hi guys, I'm trying to get my 73 Cuda running and seem to have a similar problem as 70Cuda50. After tons of research I think I have the answer but could use some help verifying it. I have the Sniper, hyperspark distributor, coil driver and standard round coil. I've eliminated the ballast and ignition box and therefore need another way to send power to the coil and the 3 pink sniper wires.

Correct me if I'm wrong... I can send IGN 1 and IGN 2 (blue and brown) both to post 86 on relay, send wire from + battery (fused) to post 30, ground wire to post 85 and 87 goes out to "where ever"...

Questions;
What kind of relay, does it matter, amps?
How many amps for fuse from battery?
Can I use ONE relay to send power to all 3 pink wires AND the coil?
Anything I'm missing?

Thanks for any help you can give!
Why do you think you need a relay? Just connect the blue and brown wires in the engine harness together, connect your ignition sense leads to it for +12v while cranking and running, relay is not required.
Unnecessary relays, fuses, and related connections in the ignition circuits are just additional potential points of failure that can cause, have caused, accidents or if you are lucky just leave you stranded on the side of the road.
 
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rklein71

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I kept my ballast resister in place, but soldered a wire in the backside. I used the normal coil wire to hook up to the pink wire as that wire is no longer necessary with the Hype spark ignition. Essentially, you are tying the brown and blue wire together to mate with the pink wire. This gives a full 12 volts to the Sniper in the start and run position.
 

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md73Cuda

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Why do you think you need a relay? Just connect the blue and brown wires in the engine harness together, connect your ignition sense leads to it for +12v while cranking and running, relay is not required.
Unnecessary relays, fuses, and related connections in the ignition circuits are just additional potential points of failure that can cause, have caused, accidents or if you are lucky just leave you stranded on the side of the road.
According to Holley and others, the relay will help reduce electrical noise that could interfere with the EFI system. This brings in clean power direct from the battery. I was going to skip it but so many people seem to have problems with these systems, that I wanted to cover all bases.
 

rklein71

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According to Holley and others, the relay will help reduce electrical noise that could interfere with the EFI system. This brings in clean power direct from the battery. I was going to skip it but so many people seem to have problems with these systems, that I wanted to cover all bases.
I have not had any troubles with not using the relay, but you never know.
 
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72RoadRunnerGTX

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The ignition sense lead simply turns the system on and off. Not that sensitive to electrical noise unlike the main un-switched power feed and the other sensor wiring. Again, a relay used in this application is not necessary. A relay without a flyback diode can generate more electrical noise than it addresses. Holley, and other manufactures of electronic accessories, will also tell you everything has to be connected directly to the battery. Lowest common denominator.

No relay, not connected directly to the battery, no issues;
 

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rklein71

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I needed a battery anyway so I bought a battery that had both top and side posts. I use the side posts to power my Sniper and the top posts as Mopar designed. Works for me and is a clean installation.
 

md73Cuda

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The ignition sense lead simply turns the system on and off. Not that sensitive to electrical noise unlike the main un-switched power feed and the other sensor wiring. Again, a relay used in this application is not necessary. A relay without a flyback diode can generate more electrical noise than it addresses. Holley, and other manufactures of electronic accessories, will also tell you everything has to be connected directly to the battery. Lowest common denominator.

No relay, not connected directly to the battery, no issues;
Great to know, thanks for the info... I guess if I have issues I know I can eliminate the relay. I fired it up and everything seems to be working well. We'll see what happens.
 
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