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some questions about 1970 / 71 Challenger R/T hardtop

chryslerfan

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I am considering purchase of a 70 or 71 Challenger R/T hardtop. I am currently looking at a few of them around the country. I have a few questions to see if you experts can help clear up some points. Thanks in advance

1. For 1970 R/T, if no extra wheel or tire codes appear on fender tag, what size wheel, what type wheel and tire size should they have. I have seen most of them with rallye wheels and many have the styled road wheels. One 70 I am seeing that is highly restored has body colored steel wheels with dog dish caps. Have not seen that on many r/t from either year.

2. On one it is supposedly numbers matching. On transmission stamp (which looks more like raised digits in the casting), the digits essentially match the VIN but the last digit looks to be double stamped with a 7 and 9 (9 would be correct to match VIN / fender tag). Do any of you have experience with that and how often do you see this. I would think it would be hard to "cast" another number on top of the numbers already there but two numbers are visible in that last digit of the VIN (picture attached)
stamping with one number restruck 15223_1d60216c9fa3_low_res.jpg


On a given two cars that are restored and both in good shape, how much more would you experts expect to pay for a numbers matching car (driveline) instead of a well restored car that is admittedly carrying a different engine and transmission than it came from factory. The one is still a 383 car but just not the original units.

Thank you for your help.
 

challenger6pak

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Wheel and tire codes are not on the fender tag. They are on the build sheet. The trans was most likely a factory misstamp. Post more pics of the cars, their fender tags etc.,
 

chryslerfan

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Thank you for the information and for further assistance. Here are links to a few of them I have considered for many different reasons. I am partial to ones with factory AC but realize a 440 6 pack car would not have had that from factory.

Red one in TN which claims to be numbers matching R/T (1971) ; they have the broadcast sheet in the pictures (hard to read of course)
1971 Dodge Challenger | Classic Cars & Muscle Cars For Sale in Knoxville TN

Yellow 1970 R/T which is not numbers matching but is not driven much (this is the one with the dog dish wheel covers):
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T | eBay

Orange one in Sarasota FL
1970 Dodge Challenger | eBay

Green one in Michigan claiming numbers matching
1970 Dodge Challenger R/T | eBay


Orange car in Texas
1971 Dodge Challenger R/T Hemi Orange 383 Magnum | eBay

Another plum crazy 440 six pack car in FL
1970 Dodge Challenger | eBay

Plum Crazy one in FL (440 six pack car)
1970 Dodge Challenger CHALLENGER R/T COUPE 440 SIX PACK | eBay

I know that is a lot of cars so ahve done hours and hours of research to try to compare them knowing they are not equal in equipment, condition, way theywere restored, etc.
 

4mayhemi

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I didn't look at all the links, but I would try to narrow down must have options and deal breakers to find a car. You have a large range, but if you have the $ for a R/T six pack, go for it.

Ditto @challenger6pak reply. The R/T is highly optioned, so most likely one would order magnums or rallyes, but someone who has data on a lot of BS's could verify how often steelies were optioned. You can see on the BS for the "Smoky Cleavage Traders 71R/T" line 4 has 74/TX8(misprint)/59/24:
Magnum/black(usually listed for magnum & rallye)/spare/trim ring.

Also using that same car, the VIN is a stamp, not cast (just shadows playing tricks). The block and tranny were usually stamped at the same time, so imperfections are common but would be the same between the two. The pic is dark, but the tranny could be restamped, something peeking under the 4, 6, and the 7. I question the fonts and even wonder about the block stamp, would want to see the top pad.

For any muscle car, #match brings more money as it is a collector item. How much depends on too many variables (sheetmetal, originality, quality restore, etc) to assign a % for all cars. But any price is only worth what you are willing to pay.
 

challenger6pak

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Back to your original question. It depends on the buyer. Some will pay more for a perfect 383 numbers matching car. Others will pay more for a car that came with a 318 but now has a Hemi.

Questions I would ask:
What do you want to do with the car? Trailer it to and from shows since it is perfect?
Drive it to shows because it is very nice?
Not really into shows. Want it to be nice for the local cruise?
Maybe you want to race it, always...some?

Once you know what you want to do with the car, you will know what type of car you should buy.
 

chryslerfan

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Thank you. I want a really nice looking and performing car to drive to local shows within say a 50 mile radius of where I live. I intend to meet more people and possibly convince some of them to use me for their investment / financial services as many people who come to these shows have money to invest elsewhere. I don't want a trailer queen as I don't have a truck or trailer. I want a reliable mechanical car for the shows and occasionally driving for fun. I understand your comments about paying more for a clone hemi than numbers matching of other cars. I think I will consider the red R/T 1971 in TN (supposedly numbers matching but at least one of you pointed out that the engine double code stamping might be in doubt) and three cars the guy with the plum crazy Challenger R/T (non numbers matching V code 440 six pack) in Kissimmee he has for sale from his collection but not on the internet (1970 T/A numbers matching and a 1970 AAR numbers not matching). That gives me 4 cars to consider. Two numbers matching and 2 not.

I know it is not hard and fast but I look at numbers matching to be worth about $20,000 - $30,000 more than a comparable car that is not numbers matching (but has the right engine code for 383, 440, etc on the VIN and fender tags). At least that is what I am using on my search and seems to be borne out by what people are asking for cars (not necessarily what they ultimately sell for) .

Best wishes.
 

chryslerfan

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The third one is the orange car in Sarasota, FL. They do not say in their ad one way or the other about the engine authenticity but they imply it is the real deal (might just mean V code). Price would imply numbers matching to me but will have to check it out further. Thank you
 
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