chryslerfan
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- Sep 2, 2017
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I am considering purchase of a 70 or 71 Challenger R/T hardtop. I am currently looking at a few of them around the country. I have a few questions to see if you experts can help clear up some points. Thanks in advance
1. For 1970 R/T, if no extra wheel or tire codes appear on fender tag, what size wheel, what type wheel and tire size should they have. I have seen most of them with rallye wheels and many have the styled road wheels. One 70 I am seeing that is highly restored has body colored steel wheels with dog dish caps. Have not seen that on many r/t from either year.
2. On one it is supposedly numbers matching. On transmission stamp (which looks more like raised digits in the casting), the digits essentially match the VIN but the last digit looks to be double stamped with a 7 and 9 (9 would be correct to match VIN / fender tag). Do any of you have experience with that and how often do you see this. I would think it would be hard to "cast" another number on top of the numbers already there but two numbers are visible in that last digit of the VIN (picture attached)
On a given two cars that are restored and both in good shape, how much more would you experts expect to pay for a numbers matching car (driveline) instead of a well restored car that is admittedly carrying a different engine and transmission than it came from factory. The one is still a 383 car but just not the original units.
Thank you for your help.
1. For 1970 R/T, if no extra wheel or tire codes appear on fender tag, what size wheel, what type wheel and tire size should they have. I have seen most of them with rallye wheels and many have the styled road wheels. One 70 I am seeing that is highly restored has body colored steel wheels with dog dish caps. Have not seen that on many r/t from either year.
2. On one it is supposedly numbers matching. On transmission stamp (which looks more like raised digits in the casting), the digits essentially match the VIN but the last digit looks to be double stamped with a 7 and 9 (9 would be correct to match VIN / fender tag). Do any of you have experience with that and how often do you see this. I would think it would be hard to "cast" another number on top of the numbers already there but two numbers are visible in that last digit of the VIN (picture attached)
On a given two cars that are restored and both in good shape, how much more would you experts expect to pay for a numbers matching car (driveline) instead of a well restored car that is admittedly carrying a different engine and transmission than it came from factory. The one is still a 383 car but just not the original units.
Thank you for your help.