Timing Issue

[sdcbowler]

Sounds good. Just wanted to make sure that you didn't get hung up on using the factory timing spec. I previously made that mistake and ran my 70 383 4-speed car at the factory timing setting of TDC. It was a dog! Good luck getting everything dialed in. Sounds like you are on your way.

Am Doing my best....thanks much for the well-wishes.

 

[sdcbowler]

Hey Members,
I a ready to set my timing advance, but not sure if I have all the steps. Below, I will write the steps I think I should take and then request for assistance from the forum.
-First, should I fully close the allen screw inside the vacuum canister on the distributor by turning it all the way clockwise?

413 cid engine, pretty much stock:
Initial timing is at 10° BTDC. Based on info from several websites.
I want to start at 20° advance giving me a total of 30° and see how the engine does.

Step 1: Unplug distributor hose form carb and plug
Step 2: Set advance timing light to 20°
Step 3: Bring RPMs to 2500-3000

This is where I am unsure.

Step 4: Do I rotate the distributor until the timing mark is back to its inital location of 10° BTDC, or do I bring it to 0°?

Please Help, thx

 

[Xcudame]

Don't touch the Allen screw in the vacuum advance. Just unplug it and cap the carb fitting as you said. Want you want is between 32° to 36° advance at an rpm of 2500 to 3000. That is accomplished by turning the distributor. Once that is done, the vacuum advance can be plugged in. If there is pinging, that's when you start adjusting the vacuum advance with an Allen wrench by turning it counter-clockwise. You don't want to go more than two full turns.

Do you know what camshaft specs are? This is what determines the 32° to 36° advance and 2500 to 3000 rpm. Milder cams on the low side, hotter cams on the high side.

If your cam is close to stock or 440 hp stock, use the lower numbers (2500 rpm and 32°).

 

[sdcbowler]

Don't touch the Allen screw in the vacuum advance. Just unplug it and cap the carb fitting as you said. Want you want is between 32° to 36° advance at an rpm of 2500 to 3000. That is accomplished by turning the distributor. Once that is done, the vacuum advance can be plugged in. If there is pinging, that's when you start adjusting the vacuum advance with an Allen wrench by turning it counter-clockwise. You don't want to go more than two full turns.

Do you know what camshaft specs are? This is what determines the 32° to 36° advance and 2500 to 3000 rpm. Milder cams on the low side, hotter cams on the high side.

If your cam is close to stock or 440 hp stock, use the lower numbers (2500 rpm and 32°).

Yes, I have a mild cam that is close to a stock cam. I made sure of that. You didn't mention anything about where the timing mark should end up after I bring the engine to 2500 rpms and rotate the distributor. Should it be back at the original location of 10° BTDC or at 0° TDC? I still don't know.

Thanks

 

[Chryco Psycho]

if you set the dial on the light to 20 but want 30* total you need it to show 10*, most engine run better with more initial & total advance closer to 16* at idle & 36* total

 

[sdcbowler]

if you set the dial on the light to 20 but want 30* total you need it to show 10*, most engine run better with more initial & total advance closer to 16* at idle & 36* total

Yes. I understand that what you have mentioned may be the final setting. However, the last part of my question is still unanswered. after setting the dial to 20° and bringing the engine to 2500 or so rpms and rotating the distributor, should the timing mark be back at the original location of 10° BTDC or at 0° TDC?

Thanks for the advice

 

[Chryco Psycho]

10*

 

[Challenger RTA]

Put quite simply; static timing is set without the engine running and dynamic timing is adjusted with the engine running.

Static Ignition Timing is the amount of Crank Angle before TDC by which Ignition inside the Cylinder is set to occur, when Engine is not started. Generally done at the time of Engine Rebuild or checked at the time of Engine Tune-up.

Dynamic Ignition Timing is the amount by which the Automatic Timing Advance Mechanisms fitted in an Engine advance the Ignition Timing still further depending upon Engine Speed, Load on it and Ambient Atmospheric Conditions.

 

[sdcbowler]

Put quite simply; static timing is set without the engine running and dynamic timing is adjusted with the engine running.

Static Ignition Timing is the amount of Crank Angle before TDC by which Ignition inside the Cylinder is set to occur, when Engine is not started. Generally done at the time of Engine Rebuild or checked at the time of Engine Tune-up.

Dynamic Ignition Timing is the amount by which the Automatic Timing Advance Mechanisms fitted in an Engine advance the Ignition Timing still further depending upon Engine Speed, Load on it and Ambient Atmospheric Conditions.

"Quite simply" he says.......

 

[Challenger RTA]

The information above is good. Myself I would static time it at 10° BTDC if that is the factory spec. Dynamic Ignition Timing 32° to 36° advance will be in the ball park. Every engine is a little different. fuel mixture can change timing. make sure you dist advance is working. Go from there. It's a matter of trial and and error.