Windshield washer fluid tubing & nozzles

[unclejesse]

Anyone have a description of where these run & where nozzles should go?

I'm trying to add it to a base barracuda. Will I have to drill holes through the hood?

How much tubing?

 

[pschlosser]

On power washer cars, a little motor is found at the base of the washer fluid bottle, mounted to the radiator support, to the passenger side of the radiator. I think the hole in the cowl is there, even on power washer cars. The hole is located up high, up where the master cylinder is located, to the far left, next to the hood hinge. The hole is pretty large, compared to others, to accommodate the foot pump, close to two inches diameter.

The manual washer pump, is foot operated by left foot. The hose(s) run from the foot pump, across the cowl following the same route as the wiring harness(es) to the passenger side, the forward over the inner fender well to the washer bottle.

From the washer bottle, the hose runs back over the passenger side inner fender well, back across the cowl towards the master cylinder. It turns upward to supply the driver side squirter, or into a TEE, I forgert, precisely, but a hose then runs over the passenger side squirter.

The squirters mount to the under side of the hood, near the vent opening at the rear. They poke through the vent, and when the hood is closed, they are aiming right at the windshield. If you cannot see the screw holes that mounted the squirters, others will chime in and provide more detail. I don't have access to a setup I can review, for the next week.

 

[Vaanth]

Anyone have a description of where these run & where nozzles should go?

I'm trying to add it to a base barracuda. Will I have to drill holes through the hood?

How much tubing?

The nozzles mount to the bottom of the hood and point through the hood grills. The following image shows the 1970 E-body layout with foot pump shown in the diagram. The electric washer pump version is essentially the same, minus the routing to the foor pump.

With an electric pump, the larger hose is about eight feet total and the smaller hose it about 30 inches. With the manual foot pump, add more for the larger hose to cover both underhood, plus the hose inside to the pump. Having some extra is advisable for routing flexibility and to ensure there is enough.

The holes to mount the nozzles should already be in the bottom of the hood in the grill area. The tee for the hoses snaps into holes already underhood. The following image shows the tee:

No holes are in the surface of the hood for the nozzles, except in the case of the AAR 'Cuda and Challenger T/A which use different, hood surface mount nozzles on their fiberglass hood.

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[MOPARMITCH]

The nozzles mount to the bottom of the hood and point through the hood grills. The following image shows the 1970 E-body layout with foot pump shown in the diagram. The electric washer pump version is essentially the same, minus the routing to the foor pump.
View attachment 157538

With an electric pump, the larger hose is about eight feet total and the smaller hose it about 30 inches. With the manual foot pump, add more for the larger hose to cover both underhood, plus the hose inside to the pump. Having some extra is advisable for routing flexibility and to ensure there is enough.

The holes to mount the nozzles should already be in the bottom of the hood in the grill area. The tee for the hoses snaps into holes already underhood. The following image shows the tee:
View attachment 157539

No holes are in the surface of the hood for the nozzles, except in the case of the AAR 'Cuda and Challenger T/A which use different, hood surface mount nozzles on their fiberglass hood.

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I just stripped my hood of parts, making ready for soda blast. I was able to get my original tee off without damage. Was a little surprised...

 

[unclejesse]

The nozzles mount to the bottom of the hood and point through the hood grills. The following image shows the 1970 E-body layout with foot pump shown in the diagram. The electric washer pump version is essentially the same, minus the routing to the foor pump.
View attachment 157538

With an electric pump, the larger hose is about eight feet total and the smaller hose it about 30 inches. With the manual foot pump, add more for the larger hose to cover both underhood, plus the hose inside to the pump. Having some extra is advisable for routing flexibility and to ensure there is enough.

The holes to mount the nozzles should already be in the bottom of the hood in the grill area. The tee for the hoses snaps into holes already underhood. The following image shows the tee:
View attachment 157539

No holes are in the surface of the hood for the nozzles, except in the case of the AAR 'Cuda and Challenger T/A which use different, hood surface mount nozzles on their fiberglass hood.

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I have an aftermarket fiberglass hood. There is no vent or holes on the hood.

 

[unclejesse]

On power washer cars, a little motor is found at the base of the washer fluid bottle, mounted to the radiator support, to the passenger side of the radiator. I think the hole in the cowl is there, even on power washer cars. The hole is located up high, up where the master cylinder is located, to the far left, next to the hood hinge. The hole is pretty large, compared to others, to accommodate the foot pump, close to two inches diameter.
View attachment 157534

The manual washer pump, is foot operated by left foot. The hose(s) run from the foot pump, across the cowl following the same route as the wiring harness(es) to the passenger side, the forward over the inner fender well to the washer bottle.

From the washer bottle, the hose runs back over the passenger side inner fender well, back across the cowl towards the master cylinder. It turns upward to supply the driver side squirter, or into a TEE, I forgert, precisely, but a hose then runs over the passenger side squirter.

The squirters mount to the under side of the hood, near the vent opening at the rear. They poke through the vent, and when the hood is closed, they are aiming right at the windshield. If you cannot see the screw holes that mounted the squirters, others will chime in and provide more detail. I don't have access to a setup I can review, for the next week.

I have an aftermarket fiberglass hood without holes or vents. I may need to drill holes unless I can think of another idea.

 

[pschlosser]

I have an aftermarket fiberglass hood. There is no vent or holes on the hood.

then you'll have to improvise something, or skip it. I have the manual pump on a 1970, and I think I've used it once in 5 years of driving.

 

[Vaanth]

I have an aftermarket fiberglass hood. There is no vent or holes on the hood.

With an aftermarket fiberglass hood, placement could be where it fits best. As a start, you could base it on the factory fiberglass hoods and use the factory style nozzles for them. I don't have an AAR 'Cuda to measure or photograph, but I have two Challenger T/As. Following are pictures of the factory nozzles and tubing underhood. This is with an electric washer pump.

Driver side nozzle underhood, with tee:

Passenger side underhood:

Overview with larger hose to the reservoir and to the hood:

Hood surface with nozzles:

The nozzles measure 12 inches in from the side edges of the hood, and 5-5/8" from the back edge of the hood, to the center of the nozzle. Placement may differ some on the 'Cuda hood, and for whatever under structure the aftermarket hood has, but this may provide a guide to start.

The rest of the layout from the factory diagram and the hose lengths from my prior post can still work.

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[pschlosser]

another style nozzle screws in.
*K6679 - 1970-74 Mopar Windshield Washer Nozzle Kit ; E-Body

but the black ones, I think snap into the groove of the vent holes in the steel hood. with some ingenuity, you may be able to screw in and attach these metals one in more places on hood.

some others are very different, and may be better suited to fiberglass hoods
Mopar E Body AAR TA Windshield Washer Squirter Nozzle Set

 

[unclejesse]

With an aftermarket fiberglass hood, placement could be where it fits best. As a start, you could base it on the factory fiberglass hoods and use the factory style nozzles for them. I don't have an AAR 'Cuda to measure or photograph, but I have two Challenger T/As. Following are pictures of the factory nozzles and tubing underhood. This is with an electric washer pump.

Driver side nozzle underhood, with tee:
View attachment 157564

Passenger side underhood:
View attachment 157563

Overview with larger hose to the reservoir and to the hood:
View attachment 157565

Hood surface with nozzles:
View attachment 157562

The nozzles measure 12 inches in from the side edges of the hood, and 5-5/8" from the back edge of the hood, to the center of the nozzle. Placement may differ some on the 'Cuda hood, and for whatever under structure the aftermarket hood has, but this may provide a guide to start.

The rest of the layout from the factory diagram and the hose lengths from my prior post can still work.

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Ok, that looks like a way to go and fairly straight forward. I guess I'm not too bothered making new holes in my aftermarket hood. I have a base 318 Barracuda so don't feel compelled to keep it as original as possible. And have replaced the engine already with a 400 Chrysler stroker engine.

I finally got the wiper motor and switch to work this summer after it not working for 20 years so now I'm down a rabbit hole getting a washer fluid system set up now that I know what the wiring is for that and that It is all in place but just not going to anything.

 

[Avalanche]

Couldn't you find something aftermarket that would squirt from the back underside of hood. That way you wouldn't need to drill holes in a new hood. There seems to be enough room there

 

[Vaanth]

Ok, that looks like a way to go and fairly straight forward. I guess I'm not too bothered making new holes in my aftermarket hood. I have a base 318 Barracuda so don't feel compelled to keep it as original as possible. And have replaced the engine already with a 400 Chrysler stroker engine.

I finally got the wiper motor and switch to work this summer after it not working for 20 years so now I'm down a rabbit hole getting a washer fluid system set up now that I know what the wiring is for that and that It is all in place but just not going to anything.

To avoid making holes in the hood, or adapting nozzles under the hood, another factory style system might be used. In 1974, B-bodies began using a system that had a nozzle bar mounted to the wiper arms. The bar has four nozzles and sprays directly on the windshield as the wipers moved. The hoses were mounted to the hood, but in 1975, the hose and tees were moved to the cowl. C-bodies also began using the system in 1975 and used it through 1978. B-bodies used it through 1979. The 1979 - 1981 R-bodies also used it.

The following images show the 1974 and 1975-later setups:

I have this system as originally installed on my 1977 Fury and my 1979 Newport. I have not looked into doing this adaptation, but it appears workable. The nozzle bars clip to the arm, which is similar between the later B-bodies and the E-bodies. The tubing is very small to be lightweight and flexible on the arms. The tees and junctions used on the later cars are no longer available new, but small universal tees and couplers can be used.

Looking for a used set from a donor car to gather all the nozzle bars, tubing, etc. should provide all that is needed, to be complemented with newer tees, etc. to adapt it. It can work with the stock E-body washer reservoir/pump and main hose. The later wiper arms have a hole in the side and the nozzle bar to tube runs under the arm to exit at that hole. The later arms are wider at the base than the earlier E-body arms, so this might be a tricky area to fit well and hide. The later B-body arms themselves might be adaptable to the E-body. The later arms use 18" blades, but might be workable to fit 16" blades.

The following images show the wiper system and some details on my 1977 Fury. The tee and couplers were my last NOS pieces that I bought new in the 1990s. I changed the original broken pieces then, and recently had to change them again. They snap into holes made for them. The tee is fed through a hole in the cowl from the washer hose under it. The hole in the E-body cowl could be used for similar with a loose tee.

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[pschlosser]

Couldn't you find something aftermarket that would squirt from the back underside of hood. That way you wouldn't need to drill holes in a new hood. There seems to be enough room there

the lip of my hood (when closed) sits about 1-inch from the windshield glass. the wiper arms must go through there. under hood sprayer is possible. but it's a tight fit, and the angle may be too acute.

 

[unclejesse]

To avoid making holes in the hood, or adapting nozzles under the hood, another factory style system might be used. In 1974, B-bodies began using a system that had a nozzle bar mounted to the wiper arms. The bar has four nozzles and sprays directly on the windshield as the wipers moved. The hoses were mounted to the hood, but in 1975, the hose and tees were moved to the cowl. C-bodies also began using the system in 1975 and used it through 1978. B-bodies used it through 1979. The 1979 - 1981 R-bodies also used it.

The following images show the 1974 and 1975-later setups:
View attachment 157570

View attachment 157571

I have this system as originally installed on my 1977 Fury and my 1979 Newport. I have not looked into doing this adaptation, but it appears workable. The nozzle bars clip to the arm, which is similar between the later B-bodies and the E-bodies. The tubing is very small to be lightweight and flexible on the arms. The tees and junctions used on the later cars are no longer available new, but small universal tees and couplers can be used.

Looking for a used set from a donor car to gather all the nozzle bars, tubing, etc. should provide all that is needed, to be complemented with newer tees, etc. to adapt it. It can work with the stock E-body washer reservoir/pump and main hose. The later wiper arms have a hole in the side and the nozzle bar to tube runs under the arm to exit at that hole. The later arms are wider at the base than the earlier E-body arms, so this might be a tricky area to fit well and hide. The later B-body arms themselves might be adaptable to the E-body. The later arms use 18" blades, but might be workable to fit 16" blades.

The following images show the wiper system and some details on my 1977 Fury. The tee and couplers were my last NOS pieces that I bought new in the 1990s. I changed the original broken pieces then, and recently had to change them again. They snap into holes made for them. The tee is fed through a hole in the cowl from the washer hose under it. The hole in the E-body cowl could be used for similar with a loose tee.

View attachment 157573

View attachment 157574

View attachment 157575

View attachment 157576

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Sprays off of the wiper? That's a curious idea.

 

[pschlosser]

Sprays off of the wiper? That's a curious idea.

there are several newer more modern cars that support this feature. my only critique of this method, is if there is dried debris, such as mud, or ice mixed with dirt, then the wipers must pass back and forth several times over the gritty mess to make it wet enough to squeegee off, while the abrasive of the mud/snow is scratching away at my windshield.

 

[sir_veza]

I have an aftermarket fiberglass hood. There is no vent or holes on the hood.

On my Challenger I also have an aftermarket fiberglass hood with no vents. A buddy of mine was encouraging me to install the squirters but decided not to do so. Don't want to chance damaging the hood. (Regardless, I usually avoid driving if rain is forecast)!