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Picked up 20 CF cylinder tank for welding

340challconvert

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Picked up a small 20 CF cylinder tank with valve to use with my Mig welder
I will be welding in a trunk floor and lower quarter panel patches.
How long will this size tank last with my welding jobs. 80 20 mix of argon co2
Would a 40 CF tank be better in the long run?
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welding gas tank purchase.jpg
 

Adam

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It will depend on your regulator settings; you can stretch it out a bit by turning the pressure down a bit. For example from 12 to 10...

It sucks running out in the middle of a project because its always after hours or on the weekend. Ideally, look around for another bottle and keep that little one as a back up. You can also rent a big bottle if you are going to use it pretty quickly. I think most welding suppliers rent monthly and yearly. In the long run it it cheaper to buy your own.
 
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340challconvert

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I grabbed it because it was under $100 bucks and free shipping with an US made gas valve. I am also going to check out renting. Size wise, I thought it would be easier to move around and a second tank is a good idea.

My garages are attached to the house and I will probably store the tanks in a shed on my property. Did not want gas cylinders under pressure beneath the residence. Don't have the luxury of a shop.
Thanks for your thoughts! :thumbsup:
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Rich G.

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If you’re just doing the trunk floor and patch’s you’ll be fine. You’ll just be doing lots of tacks so it’ll last a while. Just remember to close the valve when you’re done for the day.
 

aussiemark

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Argon is not dangerous as long as you secure the cylinder so it doesn't fall over, snap the valve off and become a torpedo if it develops a leak it won't do any harm at all unlike acetylene and other flammable gases.
 

AUSTA

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When you are not using the gas turn off the tap & open the regulator so there is no flow also check all the fittings are tight any slight leaks & you can loose a full bottle of gas overnight
 

Mopar okie

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Your better off with straight co2 it last longer than a mix.
 

340challconvert

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Adam, thanks for asking
I'm debating on what I should do with the trunk floor.
Have the 2 piece AMD floor
Left side extension is good
Right side extension is out
Original floor out except a lip that I left at the back, cut even w the cross brace.
I was going to scribe the new floor at that point w a plan to butt weld that area.
Since I had to remove the right side extension, I am thinking, just cut out the spot welds and remove what is left of the old trunk floor and start clean?

I also picked up the AMD inner RT side wheel well to patch the metal just at the back where it welds to the trunk extension.
Have some planning and fitting to do before welding.
Thoughts always welcome!
 

Adam

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Do you mean the lip across the back where the spare tire bracket is? If so, I think it would be easier to remove the rest of the pan and plug weld the new pan down. Plus you would get a good look at the rear shock mount; I had to weld & reinforce mine. Then the seam gets covered up with sealer.

Lots of holes to drill into the pan, along the frame rails and panel edges. You can fit the pan into place and mark the edges of the frame rail from the bottom, then you can take the panel out and make the holes without guessing where the rails are...

Gas tank supports & measurements?

Seam sealer?

Air Punch/Flange Tool

Generally I don’t buy anything made in China, but when I tried to buy quality pneumatic tools they were all made in China. Anyway, this hole punching tool is great for punching holes in one panel to plug weld to the other, etc. Also, the little punch outs can be used to fill holes in other projects. I helped a friend with an old military Jeep and it must have had 50+ holes from numerous radio and antennas, etc.
 

340challconvert

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The only trunk section left is a 2 in strip below the tail lights
I have to do all the sheet metal prep next (holes, weld through primer, hammer dolly wheel well edges, etc)
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Do you mean the lip across the back where the spare tire bracket is? If so, I think it would be easier to remove the rest of the pan and plug weld the new pan down. Plus you would get a good look at the rear shock mount; I had to weld & reinforce mine. Then the seam gets covered up with sealer.

Lots of holes to drill into the pan, along the frame rails and panel edges. You can fit the pan into place and mark the edges of the frame rail from the bottom, then you can take the panel out and make the holes without guessing where the rails are...

Gas tank supports & measurements?

Seam sealer?

Air Punch/Flange Tool

Generally I don’t buy anything made in China, but when I tried to buy quality pneumatic tools they were all made in China. Anyway, this hole punching tool is great for punching holes in one panel to plug weld to the other, etc. Also, the little punch outs can be used to fill holes in other projects. I helped a friend with an old military Jeep and it must have had 50+ holes from numerous radio and antennas, etc.
.
 

340challconvert

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Original floor out except for a lip that I left at the back, underneath the tail panel that is cut even w the cross brace.

Do I cut the spot welds for this last piece of the trunk floor outside and beneath the tail panel?
It looks like the indentations show up better inside the trunk.

Plan to cut the welds from the outside
Just want to make sure this is the best way to remove what is left?

Thanks for your thoughts!

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Adam

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Original floor out except for a lip that I left at the back, underneath the tail panel that is cut even w the cross brace.

Do I cut the spot welds for this last piece of the trunk floor outside and beneath the tail panel?
It looks like the indentations show up better inside the trunk.

Plan to cut the welds from the outside
Just want to make sure this is the best way to remove what is left?

Thanks for your thoughts!

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I agree, drilling the spot welds from the outside will leave nice holes in the tail panel, which will enable easy welding from the outside; that is how I would do it, but either way will work.
 
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