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T/A hood questions

challboy728

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On the underside of my T/A hood, in the scoop area, it looks like there used to be a decal (See picture attached). Was there a decal, and if so, is there a vendor that sells a reproduction?

Also, the hood is cracked in the area where the hood hinges attach. I want to repair the cracks but also want to keep the original look of the hood. Any suggestions?

I really appreciate any help on these questions.

20200810_105912.jpg
 
I have never seen or heard of an original T/A hood with a decal/sticker placed there or anywhere else. Sorry, no input on the the hinge repair. I’m sure it can be done, I just don’t have any personal experience.
 
I have 2 x TA hoods no sign of ever being a decal attached inside the scoop
See modification a friend done to a year 1 hood cut a thin slot at rear then slid a piece of 1/4" bar inside & screwed it to some hinge plates
TAHOOD1.jpg
 
On the underside of my T/A hood, in the scoop area, it looks like there used to be a decal (See picture attached). Was there a decal, and if so, is there a vendor that sells a reproduction?
I’ve never seen a decal there either.....if the light springs aren’t used, it will crack. And I’m sure you know the factory hoods all bow after time.
Also, the hood is cracked in the area where the hood hinges attach. I want to repair the cracks but also want to keep the original look of the hood. Any suggestions?

I really appreciate any help on these questions.

View attachment 74640
 
Looks like the correct springs to me. My hood is aftermarket with AAR/TA springs.

E5F6EC09-A23A-4D99-BE00-F06F53F2EDDD.png
 
Usually the reason for the dame is incorrect hood springs. They use a special low tension spring on the fiberglass hoods.
The damage to the hood occurred before I bought the car. I bought the car from the original owner about 45 years ago. The car still had the correct hood hinges with the lighter springs when I bought it.
Thanks for the response!!
 
I have 2 x TA hoods no sign of ever being a decal attached inside the scoop
See modification a friend done to a year 1 hood cut a thin slot at rear then slid a piece of 1/4" bar inside & screwed it to some hinge plates
View attachment 74679
I had kinda the same idea - insert steel reinforcement plates. The trick is keeping the hood looking original - as I am restoring my car to original condition as much as possible.
Thanks for the picture and response!!
 
So .... general consensus is there never was a decal anywhere on the hood. Which leaves me wondering why the white rectangle is on the underside of the hood.

On the issue of the cracks in the hood, for the time being, I think I will lubricate the hell out of the pivot points on the hinges and hope the cracks don't get any worse. Repairing the cracks will have to wait for a later day.

Thanks to all for your posts in regard to my questions!
 
So .... general consensus is there never was a decal anywhere on the hood. Which leaves me wondering why the white rectangle is on the underside of the hood.

On the issue of the cracks in the hood, for the time being, I think I will lubricate the hell out of the pivot points on the hinges and hope the cracks don't get any worse. Repairing the cracks will have to wait for a later day.

Thanks to all for your posts in regard to my questions!

placed there by the supplier , and was removed at time of assembly. I read it in one of the forums long time ago.
 
Last edited:
placed there by the supplier , and was removed at time of assembly. I read it in one of the forums long time ago.

Now that is pretty cool. Would be nice to know what it says. And would be cool to reproduce it and reinstall it since it was obviously left on by the supplier.
 
Regarding hood props, a long time ago... I welded two small metal sleeves under the core support.. wide-spread... and used a pair of hood-prop rods from an older car (~1970 Maverick???) to hold my T/A hood up (springs removed from the hood). I also used a couple clips that I attached onto the front grille support to hold the two bars in place when not in use. Although I no longer use that setup, I thought is was pretty good at the time (helping to keep the hood from its notorious spring warping). Nowadays, with the springs back on, during the winter season, or if I know that I wont be using the car for several months, the springs are removed... easily done back and forth.
 
You probably know this, but never open the hood by reaching into the scoop and using the top half. To repair cracks use standard fiberglass techniques. Repainting is the challenge. Nothing today has the same look as original organosol. You can find it from time to time. Figure 2 quarts to do hood, spoiler, etc. Expect to pay around $300 per quart. Make sure whoever lays it down reads the correct technique. There are online tutorials. Just redid my AAR last year.
 
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