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Regular Mini Starter vs Hi-Torque

Thank you all for your thoughts on starters ... but you are not addressing my question ... "Regular vs Hi-Torque" for mini starters. Seems it may just all be marketing as none of you seem to comment on differences.
If you are running compression in the 10:1 range or over, I'd go high torque. That's me.
 
higher torque starters are specifically designed for 16:1 and higher compression ratios and are not really designed for use in your stock or slightly modified street car. Base your decision on this. that's what I got from the article.
 
Thank you. So I assume all of the 'I use this" comments from people are regular torque starters as probably most people have less that 10:1 or 16:1 compression. Yes the starter literature also indicates high compression for high-torque starters. Since no one commented that a regular torque starter was not sufficient for a typical compression engine, I will go with a regular torque starter.
 
If a mini starter is working on all the engines listed in this post why worry about high torque starter unless you have a 12 to 1 compression monster. So we did answer your question. It's your money buy what you feel happy with. Other then a wiring problem with a Dakota everybody is happy with just a mini starter.
 
Thank you all for your thoughts on starters ... but you are not addressing my question ... "Regular vs Hi-Torque" for mini starters. Seems it may just all be marketing as none of you seem to comment on differences.
Unless your engine has a 12:1 or more compression ratio you won't need a high torque starter.
 
I have had lots of problems with the the 95 dakota starter with the wire lugs hitting the block and shorting. The top hole on the starter is bigger than the bolt so you need a sleave to take up the space. I made one. Have a 440 with shorter headers in a challenger.

wedge_426, a member of this forum, sells this terminal kit that has proved to be very helpful on clearance issues. I have included a link to his eBay page. I hope this will be helpful to you. :

Mopar Mini Starter Terminal Conversion/Relocation Kit *THE BEST, PLEASE READ!!* | eBay
 

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I've been using starters for 1995 Dakota 5.2 from NAPA and Autozone for years on probably over 30 motors from 318's to 528 Hemis. Plenty of torque and compact.
These is one in there somewhere.

I also use the mid nineties Dakota starter with no issues. I have one on a 426 crate, a 318 and a 383. Not sure why you would need a hi torque unless you are spinning at hi compression.
 
I put a Hi Torque Starter made in california on my Hemi Cuda and it work great.I was sold on them US. made
 
I too am looking for a new starter, and I'm pretty sure I have the Mini Starter in the car now. I have TTI headers so I know there are some clearance issues there.

Anyone recommend a particular BRAND? Or are they all about the same?
 
My mini spins a 512 stroker with 10:1 compression. No problem. So a hi torque is not required unless you are running higher compressions I would think. What do the starter companies say about it. I would call one and ask what they are recommended for and why.
 
I decided (with the help of this chain) that I didn't need a hi-torque starter and went with a regular mini (
Powermaster PowerMax Plus PWM-9300). It turns over my 440 magnum with ease but the clearance for the connection wires and the block is startlingly close (like 1/4") and incredibly difficult to tighten the connections with the starter in place. I should have removed the starter and attached the wires first (but I was stubborn). I noted this issue with Summit and their answer was clearance for headers. However I think the connections could be put on the underside and the power wire to the starter motor on the top. Whatever, it's done now.

PXL_20220506_205443030 - Copy.jpg
 
I decided (with the help of this chain) that I didn't need a hi-torque starter and went with a regular mini (
Powermaster PowerMax Plus PWM-9300). It turns over my 440 magnum with ease but the clearance for the connection wires and the block is startlingly close (like 1/4") and incredibly difficult to tighten the connections with the starter in place. I should have removed the starter and attached the wires first (but I was stubborn). I noted this issue with Summit and their answer was clearance for headers. However I think the connections could be put on the underside and the power wire to the starter motor on the top. Whatever, it's done now.

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Note the relocation kit that Rons340 listed above. That may remedy the difficulty you are having for the install and may stop future arcing.
 
Be sure and use a sleeve on the top bolt. The hole in the starter flange is larger than the hole on the bell housing allowing it to shift over enough to contact the block. I had this happen with Rons relocating kit. It had a hole in the plastic cap on top after 3 or 4 crankings. The sleeve is what fixed it on mine. Good luck. If the battery dies it is mostly likely this starter. It was on my car.
 
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