Newbie floor question

[mayhem]

This is the first time I've had to address floorboard rust-thru - definitely in the front on both sides and most probably in the rear both sides. Is it better to do the entire floor pan as a one piece install or individual sections one at a time? Trans tunnel is solid & has the slap stick brackets. I'm not opposed to removing all of it and installing an aftermarket shifter (probably best with the engine I'm building). Besides drilling out the spot welds on the old floor, what else should I be prepared to do before taking the wheel of death to what's left of the existing floors? I will be connecting the front & rear frame sections plus adding at least a 6-point rollbar to help strengthen the chassis and keep the car from twisting itself into a pretzel. Any thoughts or cautions would be appreciated. Thanking you in advance. Mopar to ya!

 

[fasjac]

Welcome to the site from Arkansas! First, without seeing the extent of damage, I’d say replace as a unit. But, with adding the the roll cage, may be ok with patch panels.
sounds like you’re going to be cutting and welding afterwards anyway. Would like to see some pics of what you’re working with.
Glad you joined up!

 

[70chall440]

My $.02 is to replace the entire pan if you are willing to do so. Where you see rust is only the beginning, there is undoubtedly some rust you are not seeing, perhaps not horrible but still there. Removing the floor pan will give you access to the cross members which you can clean/repair as needed.

What I do is is use a cut off wheel or plasma to cut out the big pieces that do not have any cross members under them, then use a spot weld cutter or even a flap wheel to drill/grind off the spot welds to remove the rest. I even use an air chisel at times. Once everything it out, then I clean up everything, lay in the new pan, mark it from underneath, then you can drill holes for spot welds.

 

[mayhem]

I'm thinking a full pan is probably the best to avoid a wavy install. Also, the 'unseen' is somewhat eliminated by replacing it all. Excellent idea to cut the floor out in sections then work on the spot welds & subfloor structure - THANKS! I knew there were FEBO folks out there who are "...smarter than the average bear." (When was the last time you heard that line?)

 

[mayhem]

Anyone know if AMD has full floor pans in stock - or what the projected wait time is?

 

[70chall440]

i would think that they are available, however there are a number of companies that carry AMD. Do some research and you should be able to find some, that said I doubt anyone here is going to know for sure. As to delivery time, being in PNW myself I would say delivery time is probably 3-8 days.

 

[mayhem]

Thanks 70chall440. I had been reading about delays in filling carpet & interior orders and if the AMD floor pan wasn't in stock, what the anticipated wait time for resumption of production was if anyone else who was waiting knew. I have to clear space in the shop, inventory parts & make a plan beofre doing anything else. Seems daunting but I'll get there. Glad to have you and other FEBO members as resources & moral support. Mopar to ya!​

 

[Bustbeel1]

AMD rear pans don’t fit properly they are short all the way around I bought this waste of metal from Classic Industries! Cut Crooked! Second bad piece from AMD and Classic Industries! Do you think they give a ****?No! Be careful every dollar counts in this So called Hobby!

 

[mayhem]

AMD rear pans don’t fit properly they are short all the way around I bought this waste of metal from Classic Industries! Cut Crooked! Second bad piece from AMD and Classic Industries! Do you think they give a ****?No! Be careful every dollar counts in this So called Hobby!

View attachment 142040

Interesting. I've never had anything more than minor adjustments to AMD stuff but I haven't bought recently. When did you buy yours? Beside the floor section in your picture, what was the second part that was off?

 

[Cuda_mark]

My rear floor pans from AMD had the wrong sized seat belt hole threads

 

[mayhem]

My rear floor pans from AMD had the wrong sized seat belt hole threads

Yikes. Coarse vs fine? How did that even happen? You'd think for what they charge, these things would be better sorted.

 

[Cuda_mark]

Yikes. Coarse vs fine? How did that even happen? You'd think for what they charge, these things would be better sorted.

1/2" vs 7/16"

 

[mayhem]

1/2" vs 7/16"

Oh! Even worse. Once again, how could they let that happen? Has there been a change in seatbelt bolt size since the muscle car era? I 'might' be able to understand it (ok, no I can't) if somewhere along the line the industry upgraded to the 1/2" size. Next we'll have somebody chime in about their bolt holes being threaded in a close metric size...

 

[Xcudame]

No body parts are as good as the originals and New Old Stock. AMD typically needs some work, but most of the guys doing body work agree, AMD is the best you're going to get.

And all E-Bodies had 7/16-20 seat belt fasteners.

 

[Cuda_mark]

Oh! Even worse. Once again, how could they let that happen? Has there been a change in seatbelt bolt size since the muscle car era? I 'might' be able to understand it (ok, no I can't) if somewhere along the line the industry upgraded to the 1/2" size. Next we'll have somebody chime in about their bolt holes being threaded in a close metric size...

I didn't find out until the car was completely painted and done when I was installing the interior. I actually emailed them about it but they never responded. I haven't ever heard of anyone else having this issue so I have no idea how it happened.

 

[mayhem]

No body parts are as good as the originals and New Old Stock. AMD typically needs some work, but most of the guys doing body work agree, AMD is the best you're going to get.

And all E-Bodies had 7/16-20 seat belt fasteners.

View attachment 142079

Thanks for sharing this. Any idea if 7/16" is still the industry standard?

 

[mayhem]

I didn't find out until the car was completely painted and done when I was installing the interior. I actually emailed them about it but they never responded. I haven't ever heard of anyone else having this issue so I have no idea how it happened.

So what is the fix? Get some 1/2" Grade 8 bolts & turn down a 1/4" of the tip to mirror the original bolts?

 

[Cuda_mark]

So what is the fix? Get some 1/2" Grade 8 bolts & turn down a 1/4" of the tip to mirror the original bolts?

I just used 1/2 hardware store bolts with a little breakable loctite. You can't see them once the seat is in anyway.

 

[rklein71]

I had no issues with my rear floor pan section.

 

[Bustbeel1]

Interesting. I've never had anything more than minor adjustments to AMD stuff but I haven't bought recently. When did you buy yours? Beside the floor section in your picture, what was the second part that was off?

No other parts just a slight bent edge from shipping on a new Deck Lid.The floor pan is absolutely terrible fitting called to AMD they just said: “the parts were not made for like full replacements…..” my Body Guy says well you got fcked buying from AMD! Typical of people today! could not even hammer into a straight piece. It’s so wrinkled in the corners it is crooked!