Swapping 70 front end onto 72 body, differences?

[Builderguy]

First off, 70-74 challengers look great, I just lean toward the 1970 look. That said, I am going to change the front end (and some of the back) to a 1970 look. I have checked here, and in a bunch of other places, to find the areas that need to be addressed. This is what I have came up with:

1.....The 72 fenders will have to be changed to 70's as the headlight buckets are attached to the fenders in both 70 and 71. These buckets allow for the mounting of the grill and headlight bezels.

2.....The center yolk section is slightly different with the 70's having an extra mounting hole slot on the pass side top section and the 72 having a small cut out section on the rear (top section)

3.....The main yolk is pretty much the same for both
4.....The bumper supports will require modification, as the 70's bumper sits farther back to close the gap between the bumper and grill (or just use the 70 bumper brackets).
5.....The the front side markers will need to be replaced with the 70's bezel, reflector, and wiring as they are two different styles (rear also need to be changed to match which will require welding in the correct sheet metal)
6.....The air shields (front valance) appear to be the same unless one adds the deflectors (not sure if the actual turn signal the same or not)

7.....Inner fender covers are the same 70-74
8.....Fender splash shields are the same 70-74
9.....Front bumper fillers are the same 70-74
10...Inner fender (left) on 72-74 has a small bump out near the top of where the battery sits (probably for the battery holder bolt location). Everything else appears to be the same (my just have to replace this as the battery area is acid eaten)
11...Inner fender (right) on the 72-74 has and indent just above and to the rear of the shock. There are also some extra captured nut locations but the basic shape is the same. (change one side, might as well change the other)
12...Upper Radiator support is the same for 70-74
13...Lower Radiator support is the same for 70-74
14...Shock tower to inner fender brace (both sides) are the same for 70-74
15...Battery tray is the same for 70-74
16...Battery hold down is slightly different with an extra hold down bolt to the inner fender on 72-74 (only J hooks on 70/71)

That about sums it up. Please chime in if you know of any other issues I am going to run into.

 

[Builderguy]

Forgot, this is the car that the changes are being done on:

 

[terrywalker]

I believe the adjustable hood bumpers are mounted in a different location on a 1970 fender as compared to a 72. I also believe a different hood latch release is required.
Terry W.

 

[Builderguy]

Shoot, I completely forgot about the hood. I have a new R/T -Rallye steel hood like this:

1970-1974 Challenger Steel Hood for R/T and Rallye models. ​

Years Fit:
1970 1971 1972 1973
1974
Makes Fit:
Dodge
Models Fit:
Challenger
Bodies Fit:
E-body

but I didn't notice this note on the bottom.

"Correct for 1971-1974 models only, but will fit 1970 models if larger hinge bolts are used."

So now I need to check on this as well as the hood bumper stops.

 

[terrywalker]

I also believe the hood hinges are a different design if looking to be correct for a 1970 but the other years of hinges will work as you pointed out in the notes. Also the headlight wiring harness is different as well as the horns and wiring location. The side marker lights and turn signal lights have a different style plug.
. Terry W.

 

[mrmopar340]

Don't see many with the cassette option still in there.

 

[Builderguy]

Don't see many with the cassette option still in there.

I thought the same thing, enough so that I just bought the mic it was missing to make it complete. No idea if it even works, but it will start conversations.

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

I believe the issues pretty much go away with the new parts (primarily just fenders and grill changes?). Not saying there aren't differences, just speaking for installation and fit up purposes.
Are you talking about outward appearance - not closely analyzing the details, or are you talking about not being able to tell short of checking the VIN?

 

[Builderguy]

I believe the issues pretty much go away with the new parts (primarily just fenders and grill changes?). Not saying there aren't differences, just speaking for installation and fit up purposes.
Are you talking about outward appearance - not closely analyzing the details, or are you talking about not being able to tell short of checking the VIN?

Just general appearance. I restored a 1973 RR back to the look it had coming off the line, right down to every decal and correct paint for each part. That was a car I built to sell. This challenger will be my daily driver so I just want it to look good IMO. I will keep features I like, or are interesting, and change those I don't. This car was originally GA4 Light Gunmetal Metallic, some time in the past it was changed to some form of green.

Back in the 1970's a friend of mine had a challenger that he painted "petty blue", corporate blue, TB3, Basin Street Blue, or whatever you want to call it. I flat out loved that car back in the day. Now I have the car, and since I have to change the color anyway, why not make it just what I liked back then, and now.

For me, I just don't like the "sad face" grille, not knocking it (as it is pretty neat) but I just like the 70 grille better. To each their own. If I didn't have the grille (actually a couple of them), or the skill set to make the car what I like, I probably would just go with the factory 1972 look (still a great looking car) and color. For me, it is not a lot of work to make the changes, I just want to know about the differences so I don't make a simple mistake that will cause me to go backward on the build. Do it once, do it right!

 

[Builderguy]

FWIW, this was the 1973 RR:

 

[Builderguy]

This pic is reportedly from an unrestored 1970 Hemi Challenger so I now know the mounting location of both the hood bumpers and hood pins.

 

[mrmopar340]

I thought the same thing, enough so that I just bought the mic it was missing to make it complete. No idea if it even works, but it will start conversations.

View attachment 126833

I got a whole set up sans the connector from the radio to the cassette. Original mike with it. They had straight cords. A nice thing to have. I'm going different route though.

 

[Builderguy]

I got a whole set up sans the connector from the radio to the cassette. Original mike with it. They had straight cords. A nice thing to have. I'm going different route though.

Saving it or selling it? I have seen asking price for the complete unit (less the radio) of $900. Go figure!

 

[terrywalker]

Also a 1970 and early 1971 fender does not have a rectangular notch in the fender where the hood pin cable screws on to the fender. It was a mid-year change in 1971. But a 1971 fender will look just like a 1970 fender if you didn't know.
Terry W.

 

[mrmopar340]

Se

Saving it or selling it? I have seen asking price for the complete unit (less the radio) of $900.

Saving it or selling it? I have seen asking price for the complete unit (less the radio) of $900. Go figure!

Selling, radio, cassette player, cassette cover, mounting base and microphone. The radio is an AM one with the plug on the back.

 

[mrmopar340]

Saving it or selling it? I have seen asking price for the complete unit (less the radio) of $900. Go figure!

 

[Katfish]

Also a 1970 and early 1971 fender does not have a rectangular notch in the fender where the hood pin cable screws on to the fender. It was a mid-year change in 1971. But a 1971 fender will look just like a 1970 fender if you didn't know.
Terry W.

Have a pic of this?

 

[340challconvert]

1970 no notch; late 1971 fenders and later factory replacement fenders for 1970 and 1971 were sold with the notch (pic of an NOS fender I purchased in 1980.

 

[Builderguy]

1970 no notch; late 1971 fenders and later factory replacement fenders for 1970 and 1971 were sold with the notch (pic of an NOS fender I purchased in 1980.

View attachment 126861

View attachment 126862

View attachment 126867

View attachment 126868

So if I am understanding this correctly, in the top photo, the hood pin cable should have been screwed into the notch area and not into the painted fender, for this variation of the fender.

Makes sense to me as that location will not mess up any paint.

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

Just general appearance. I restored a 1973 RR back to the look it had coming off the line, right down to every decal and correct paint for each part. That was a car I built to sell. This challenger will be my daily driver so I just want it to look good IMO. I will keep features I like, or are interesting, and change those I don't. This car was originally GA4 Light Gunmetal Metallic, some time in the past it was changed to some form of green.

Back in the 1970's a friend of mine had a challenger that he painted "petty blue", corporate blue, TB3, Basin Street Blue, or whatever you want to call it. I flat out loved that car back in the day. Now I have the car, and since I have to change the color anyway, why not make it just what I liked back then, and now.

For me, I just don't like the "sad face" grille, not knocking it (as it is pretty neat) but I just like the 70 grille better. To each their own. If I didn't have the grille (actually a couple of them), or the skill set to make the car what I like, I probably would just go with the factory 1972 look (still a great looking car) and color. For me, it is not a lot of work to make the changes, I just want to know about the differences so I don't make a simple mistake that will cause me to go backward on the build. Do it once, do it right!

I ask because that makes a difference on the amount of work and parts you need. I am doing something similar with my 72 Cuda - always wanted an AAR, so I am converting the 72 into 70 AAR Cuda while making the changes for how I want it. One big thing I'll keep is the stock Petty Blue color - the color should really pop with the black strobe stripes and AAR hood!