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Slap Stick Question

Kansan

Kansan

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This is my first car with a slap stick and have questions about operation. If I put the car in 1st, bump it to second, hit the button and bump it into drive, then it can be easily dropped back into 2nd. If I move it directly from Park to Drive, it can not drop into 2nd without hitting the button. Normal operation? Of course, it is 52 years old and may be worn, but in general I'm just curious how it SHOULD work. It doesn't really bother me right now, but if it can be better, then.....

Thanks,

Kansan
 
That seems normal. I like to think of the button function in terms of speed and efficiency.

The button is needed to move it out of P... which makes sense, as a safety function. Once out of Park, you can freely move it to R, N and D without the button. But to go all the way down into 1, which is NOT typical for a daily driver, you'll need the button again. No doubt, for safety.

For upshifting (1-2 and 2-3), the button is not needed. It will not go from 1 to D (without the button), but it WILL go and stop in 2. Same for the 2-3 (D) upshift. This is like "drag strip quarter mile mode"

It MAY go in to N from D, but it wont go in to R (or P) from N or D without the button. Again, for safety.

These automatic stops allow one to slap the stick into position. But I admit, I don't slap it. I'm gentle with it. In "drag strip mode" I tend to place the palm of my hand on the console ridge to the right of the stick, and just use my thumb to upshift.
 
I guess my question is why will it go from D to 2 without button after upshifting from 2 to D, but will not go from D to 2 when shifted into D from N....does that make sense?

Thanks,

Kansan
 
normal operation seems to be once you get into D, and can only go to N without a button.

when in N (or going through N from R), mommy grocery runner will want it to stop in D, and not require her to look down to confirm it didn't go in to 2 or 1 by mistake. In this mode, it freely moves from D to N and back again.

To get into drag racing mode, or to manually downshift from D to lower for a lengthy uphill climb, both of which are atypical, the button is needed.

I just confirmed in the garage, I need a button to go into 2 anytime I'm in D.
 
The 3-2 downshift at high speeds isn't that terrible. The 2-1 downshift is protected by "the governor".

Back in the 1980s, I rebuilt a 727 using the excellent kit from B&M Transmissions. There are several street/strip mods discussed in the instructions. I chose to complete the governor modification allowing one to downshift into 1 at any speed. And I have, on 2 or 3 occasions, accidentally downshifted from D to 1 at high speeds. Boy oh boy, before the tires fully hook up overrevving the engine, the back end is pretty squirrelly. I'm surprised I never wrecked the thing. I have chosen to never make that modification again.

1760226184541.png


I just checked the FSM. and it suggests even the 3-2 downshift is protected. So, if your going 125 MPH, and put it into 2, it won't downshift until you slow some.

1760226736766.png


I tend to rely on the throttle pressure linkage to downshift when flooring the engine to WOT at highway speeds. As I think back, it's probably because of my experience with that modified 727.
 
Last edited:
pschlosser said:
I just confirmed in the garage, I need a button to go into 2 anytime I'm in D.
Click to expand...
...And this is the point of my post, I do NOT need the button to to from D to 2 if upshifting from 2. I DO need the button to shift from D to 2 IF I go from P, R or N directly to D. Is this a shifter/linkage problem or is it something in the transmission. I suspect it is more of an issue with the shifter mechanism. Not that I use the "dragrace" mode in normal driving, but I'm quirky like that.

Kansan
 
slap stick is the best thing since fried chicken! I have never seen a factory or a.m. shifter the performs as smooth as the slap stick. I'm throwing a gen 3 in my car and am trying to engineer the slap stick to work with the new electronic shifter in like it that much. I remember when I was in high school and got my first Challenger I thought I was the sh**! Just because I had a Slap Stik
 
Kansan said:
...And this is the point of my post, I do NOT need the button to to from D to 2 if upshifting from 2. I DO need the button to shift from D to 2 IF I go from P, R or N directly to D. Is this a shifter/linkage problem or is it something in the transmission. I suspect it is more of an issue with the shifter mechanism. Not that I use the "dragrace" mode in normal driving, but I'm quirky like that.

Kansan
Click to expand...
Then I think its a shifter mechanism problem. A cleaning and inspection may show a worn part you can fix. But if you can live with it, maybe just leave it.

The linkage simply connects the shifter mechanism to the transmission. And the transmission shift lever just rotates a rooster comb. So both of these latter systems don't do anything fancy, like blocking you from moving from here to there. That is all done by the shift mechanism in the console.
 
To clarify down shifting button needed P-R , R-N , D-2 & 2-1 no button needed between N-D
once in 1 no button needed to go 1-2 blocked from going past 2 , release pressure on shifter , 2-3 , but button needed to go D-N , N-R , R-P
Slight linkage adjustments will affect the way the shifter works & it can take a number of tries to get it in the right spot
 
Last edited:
That is NOT the way my shifter is acting, so I made a video.



Kansan
 
Last edited:
pschlosser said:
Is the pistol shift handle OEM for this application? It not, there may be more under the shifter plate that is modified.
Click to expand...
Not sure if I understand the question, fully. Obviously, it is not an OEM handle but it was manufactured specifically for the 71-74 E & B bodies sold by Van's Auto (formerly Tony's Parts).

vansauto.com

71-74 E and 71-74 B-Body, Pistol Grip Automatic Shifter fits - CHZPGS714 - Vans Auto

Pistol Grip Automatic Shifter fits 71-74 E-Body and 71-74 B-Body CHZPGS714
vansauto.com vansauto.com

When I bought the car, there was a similar handle installed with a carbon fiber looking grip, but I thought it didn't look right on a vintage car. I did get the original T shift handle with the car, but I believe there are a few missing parts...specifically there is nowhere to screw the screw to on the plastic T handle. There is a hole in the T handle, and a small screw, but nowhere to screw the screw into something with threads.

Once the weather turns, there are several issues I want to address but for now I'm enjoying the car while the weather is nice.

Hope this makes sense.
 
Last edited:
If it were mine, I would put the factory T-handle on and get it working.
After that, you can switch to the other handle.
The shift mechanism isn't complicated, if you take a look and none of the channels are excessively worn, it will work.
 
BSG said:
slap stick is the best thing since fried chicken! I have never seen a factory or a.m. shifter the performs as smooth as the slap stick. I'm throwing a gen 3 in my car and am trying to engineer the slap stick to work with the new electronic shifter in like it that much. I remember when I was in high school and got my first Challenger I thought I was the sh**! Just because I had a Slap Stik
Click to expand...
Agree completely! I believe the slap stik is the finest auto shifter ever put into our Mopars!
 
Katfish said:
If it were mine, I would put the factory T-handle on and get it working.
Click to expand...

These are my thoughts exactly, although when I went to reinstall the factory T handle, I realized there may be something missing. As I said, I'll put her up when the weather starts turning and dig into a few issues that are bugging me. I appreciate all of the feed back...

Kansan
 
There was nothing missing...I installed the original T handle and the shifter acted the same....I'm sure I'll have to go under the console, or under the car...,
 
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