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How much can I get out of a 318.

yes I believe the hi compression race kit in a 408 would be a better option. Would you guys run the Indy heads or stick to original w2’s
 
I have a 360 out of a dart. I could use. I have one 340 block yet but I’d really prefer to keep it for my cuda’s just in case. The duster already has a Dana 60 under it, has a roll cage etc. I’m going to admit I know nothing setting a car up for drag racing. or what class I would be in. The interior has been stripped it does have a fiberglass dash one racing seat and a 5 point harness. Would I need to find an interior to put back in it or ???? I just hate to spend a bunch of money redoing a car that wouldn’t be worth much of anything. I just don’t want to relive the truck pulling days of working all week to eat bologna sandwiches while the paycheck goes into the truck. No one is going to hurt my feelings. I’m not pretending like I know everything here. I got two sets of w2 heads left. One is for a 59 degree block and the other is for a 48 degree block but I have seen where guys have put the r3 style racing heads on a stock ish degree block.
The only 2 difference between 48deg/59deg is the steeples for the push rod and 15deg valves. 59deg no steeples 18deg valves. Intake face: don't know if there is any difference. If you are going W2 expensive. Will need different manifold. Finding one problem madic.. only intake made to date for is indy. EXPENSIVE non street. Race only. Only one I know of. Those of us that own a w2 intake ( duel plain) won't part with it. I looked for 6 years before got mine. New in mopar box. I found it in Hamberg. Not USA.
 
25 years ago, when I started racing, my buddy said to me, "I know exactly how much money you're going to spend on racing." Being the noob, I thought to myself, "Is he omniscient? What gives? How does he know this unknown number?" So of course I said, "How much?" He responded, "All of it." Yep, that's about right.

I know you've been down this path before and it looks like you're receiving and using good advice. Good luck to you! I'm sure you'll have a blast.
 
2 of the fastest normal cars I've been in, were built 318's
I didn't believe it when they told me.
The fastest street car I've ridden in was a rotax( I'm thinking now it was a procharger) 400 chevy, 69 Nova. Steel, street car.
The engine was all aluminum, and chevy in appearance only. Dyno'd at over 1200hp.
1/4 in low 7's.
I know there's faster car than that, and some people on here have one.
Since its going in an A body, build the crap out of a 318 and dial the car in.
Did I miss the hoped for et?
 
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Don't overlook the chassis and safety requirements for running 10s. Per NHRA

10.99 seconds (6.99 1/8th) or Super Street
SFI 4.1 Transmission Shield, or at 135 mph
Locking transmission dipstick tube
Aftermarket axles and axle retainers
SFI Harmonic Balancer
Roll Cage with altered floor pans, or 135 mph
Window net required

9.99 seconds (6.39 1/8th) or Super Gas or 135 mph
NHRA Chassis Certification
NHRA Competition License
SFI jacket & pants 3.2A/5
SFI neck collar & gloves 3.3/1
SFI 29.1 flexplate / 30.1 flexplate shield (AT equipped cars)
Full Face Helmet meeting Snell or SFI specifications

Auto Trans Reverse Lockout
Any non-OEM (ie aftermarket) automatic floor-mounted transmission shifter must be equipped with a spring-loaded, positive reverse lockout device to prevent the shifter from accidentally being put in reverse gear. A functional neutral safety switch is also required.

Roll Bars Unless otherwise required by your class, 6 point roll bars are required on convertibles running quicker than 8.25.
Roll Bar required on all cars (including T-tops) running quicker than 7.35.
Roll Cages Roll Cages required on convertibles running 6.99 or faster than 135mph.
Roll Cages required on all cars running 6.99* or faster than 135mph.  *One exception: full-bodied cars running between 6.40 and 6.99, with unaltered firewalls, floor and body (fromfirewall rearward - wheel tubes permitted) can compete with just a roll bar.Vehicles running 6.39 E.T. (Elapsed Time) and quicker require a NHRA Competition License and the chassis must have a current NHRA Chassis Certification.

Helmets Drivers of all 8.59 or quicker cars, including motorcycles, must wear a helmet meeting Snell or SFI Specifications.
Full-face helmet mandatory on all cars 9.99 (1/4 mile)/6.39 (1/8 mile) or quicker. See individual Class Requirements for additional requirements, such as Stock Eliminator.
Shield mandatory 7.49 (1/4 mile) and quicker.
Drivers of NHRA Lucas Oil Drag Racing Series and E.T. cars (13.99 or quicker) (*8.59) must use a helmet meeting Snell SA2010, M2010, or SFI 31.1/2010, or 41.1/2010 Specs.

There are even more specs regarding driveshaft loops, battery relocation, restraints and seat belts, etc, so on and so forth. It will serve you well to get a current NHRA or IHRA rule books for the tracks you plan on running at.
 
10's.
The old round number average,
10 sec
140mph
30" w 4.10, or 32" with 4.30.
If you go lower, 4 56 or 4.88, you might be quick but trap less.
Break it down with tire size and gear, but all combos get you to about 6750 in the traps. And your going to need a pretty fair hp. Approx. 550-600. Give your self some upside limit, 7500 rpm.
Things could get exspensive.
Seeing friends go crazy, spending big bucks lead me to build the used parts, junkyard alternative. Might not get all the way to 10's but with your W2's, real close.
Early 360 block, used 72-3 340 pistons, early small bushed 318 rods with stock 360 crank.
The pistons will need piston height and skirts trimmed. I did most of that myself.
It helps to have some access to a machine shop for small work, so you are down to paying for a bore, balance and decking. I had less than in a $G in mine with rings and bearings.
The now lighter piston, and 318 rod balance out at nearly the stock 360 weights, saving an exspensive mallory job.
I have picked up several sets of really nice low comp 340 pistons for free or cheap as they were dissapointing in a 340. Blocks are still $100 or under, and all your mopar buddies have some junk early 318 around.
Haven't blown a rod yet. But I have blocks ,pistons and rods waiting for another.

Usps says you can mail paint
 
10's.
The old round number average,
10 sec
140mph
30" w 4.10, or 32" with 4.30.
If you go lower, 4 56 or 4.88, you might be quick but trap less.
Break it down with tire size and gear, but all combos get you to about 6750 in the traps. And your going to need a pretty fair hp. Approx. 550-600. Give your self some upside limit, 7500 rpm.
Things could get exspensive.
Seeing friends go crazy, spending big bucks lead me to build the used parts, junkyard alternative. Might not get all the way to 10's but with your W2's, real close.
Early 360 block, used 72-3 340 pistons, early small bushed 318 rods with stock 360 crank.
The pistons will need piston height and skirts trimmed. I did most of that myself.
It helps to have some access to a machine shop for small work, so you are down to paying for a bore, balance and decking. I had less than in a $G in mine with rings and bearings.
The now lighter piston, and 318 rod balance out at nearly the stock 360 weights, saving an exspensive mallory job.
I have picked up several sets of really nice low comp 340 pistons for free or cheap as they were dissapointing in a 340. Blocks are still $100 or under, and all your mopar buddies have some junk early 318 around.
Haven't blown a rod yet. But I have blocks ,pistons and rods waiting for another.

Usps says you can mail paint
Let me know on the paint. Going in the paint shop late summer.
 
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