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AAR resto

don selleck

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:)
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larry4406

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Very nice!

Please include the details on how you notch the plastic fender well liner pieces to clear the US Cartool inner fender braces.
 

don selleck

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Getting my engine out of rebuild jail in a few days, unfortunately is exactly the same as it was when I dropped it off 8 months ago. ☹️ , owell, this is how I eliminated paint jail problems many years ago, I got a buddy who's worked on Mopars forever and is a mechanic for 30 years and has a 340 6 pack in his duster he rebuilt years ago still runs great, we're going to put it together in my shop, so here we go! So tired of dunb f--cks.
 

don selleck

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thank you, just heading out to the shop this morning going To be nasty hot here today, going to buff the main areas that shows in the engine compartment, and what you can see in the trunk looking at it from standing height, nothing crazy just a cut with a pad then a polish, enough to smooth out any dirt specs. then will be prepping the last of the parts tomorrow for spray on Wednesday morning. A cold front is supposed to move through tonight and cool it down here, should decrease the humidity too, I hope.
 

Xcudame

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Don, has the machine work has already been done (bored, honed, etc.)? I've paid people to bone, hone and surface blocks and regrind crankshafts (I did that for a few years myself!) as I just don't have that capability, but I assemble the short block myself. With your skill set, assembling your own engine won't be a problem for you. Maybe I'm paranoid, but I even take cylinder heads (new and rebuilt) apart to check everything. I've had to lap valves and lightly hone valve guides. Luckily there are a few good machinists you can trust, but they're getting scarcer and harder to find.
 

don selleck

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yes all machine work has been done .20 over, cam and crank line bored, pressure checked new cam bearings, Ther may be an issue with one of the main bolts, if that needs replaced probably will re check crank line bore, new edelbrock performer heads 1250 miles on them from last run, will fluid check them, and see if they seal, yes I'm sure I can do it with some guidance, just gun shy to risk the stroker kit on inexperience. thanks for the confidence boost, :thumbsup:
 

don selleck

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got 11 hours into her today cut and buffed. sandblasted and treated about 20 parts, will let them dry and shoot them tomorrow. SEM black mainly under hood parts, gonna call Advantage driveline tomorrow to see how my 8 3/4 and drive shaft are coming. will have more pics tomorrow.
 

Xcudame

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Be sure to run a flat bottom tap into every screw hole including very carefully the main cap bolt holes! And then use an air hose to blow out the holes. That might also help your issue with the one main cap bolt.
 

don selleck

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got the SEM rattle can black done today, talked to advantage drive line said by the end of week, for the rear end completion, so then the ceramic undercarriage paint can be shot with the leaf springs and center link. That will get the car on its wheels again. removed the aar # leaf spring front the bottom of the old springs, blasted, rust inhibiters added and rebolted to new springs, love my cabinet blaster. touched up some purple areas deep in the truck now accessible from the back seat area. going to work on a few things in the morning then headed to the weekly pool game in Bridgewater Michigan about 35 minutes from here. will throw back a few, B.s. with some good friends, all retired machinests, engineers, and several other regular guy jobs. Will
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figure out a date and time to go get my engine and trans, so I can start the rebuild process. threw the rebuilt wiper motor in just to look at it. BM Cuda does a great job, Bill is a way good guy.
 

don selleck

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clamp them before you remove the bottom leaf bolt, clean up the thread so the nut will thread off the bolt, I ground it back to be able for the nut to thread off the bolt, then hit it with a grinder and a hammer to replicate the cut, at least somewhat, when its replaced. :lol:
 
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