no oil in stored engine

[topknot]

I have a 1970 challenger with a 318 that I purchased. The car was taken apart in the 90s and i purchased it in that condition recently. The engine and transmission had been removed at some point to put new aprons on the car, and the 318 has a new performer intake and 4-barrel holley. I dont think the engine has ran since the car was taken apart in the 90s. I think thats when the intake and carb was put on the engine. I have no idea if any other work was done to the motor, but I can tell you its not stuck but theres no oil on the dipstick. The motor turned free with a wrench when I purchased the car, and since I didnt see oil I sprayed lube down the sparkplug holes. I am wondering if I should do anything to the motor? Add oil, but the motor does not run so it wont oil the motor. Or since it turns free and the motor will be gone over before running do I just keep tunring it by hand and make sure its not stuck until I get closer to needing a running motor?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Treat it like a rebuild engine. Prime the engine.
I would check to see if the oil pump is working.
Pull the distributor and spin the pump to see if you have oil. It's a good tattle tell. The crank has to be turned for the cam to line up each side of the oil galleries.

es.

 

[pschlosser]

it is not uncommon for a seller of a car that doesn't run to bolt on performance parts they have lying around, to make the engine seem more performant with the hope they can sell the car more easily, or get more for it. Challenger RTA's advice is good. put oil in and see if it runs. It may not. Or, it may just be empty of oil, which is pretty strange for an engine someone want's to take care of.

 

[topknot]

I see moroso makes an oil pump priming tool. Is that needed or do people use something else that is commonly around a garage? No way the motor is starting as the wiring harness and complete dash has been removed. Pretty sure its also missing the flywheel. But I can prime it, just need to know if I need that tool or if something else can be used.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Big Block Mopar and Hemi Oil Pump Priming Rod | eBay

This product is clear coated for long lasting shine and made in the USA.

www.ebay.com

 

[don selleck]

I would pull the oil pan and valve covers and just look at it first, they will probably both leak anyways and go from there.

 

[pschlosser]

FYI, the priming shaft is nothing special. The shaft is typically standard 1018 cold-rolled steel hexagonal bar stock 5/16-inch (0.3125) available from most steel supply sources, such as those used by metal fabricators. You few phone calls to your local machine shops may find some in stock. They are typically 16-inch length. Prices before shipping are close to $5/foot.

I find the "clear coat" referred to by the epay listing amusing, because after the first use, the areas of the clear coat are compromised and it will begin to oxidize. A bare shaft will at least age (patina) evenly.

I think this tool is something all Mopar mechanics should have in their toolbox, so seek one out. This is a must-do for the dry engine or an engine restart after sitting for several years and is a great way to minimize wear on startup of the stored engine.

For an engine only stored 5 years or less, I'm not sure I would worry about it. In a pinch, if you don't have the shaft, and are eager to roll up your sleeves and begin work, another method involves removing the plugs and squirting 10cc of oil (be it 30W or marvelous miracle) into each cylinder to minimize scoring of the rings-to-cylinder walls when cranking a dry engine.

Most of the time, one can disconnect the ignition coil from the distributor (so the engine does NOT start) and crank the engine (10-seconds at a time) until the oil pressure comes up and the passages are pumped through. Most engines will pump up in less than 60-seconds of cranking. Even the standard dash has an oil light, and while cranking, the light will go out once pressure is reached,

Dropping the pan seems like a lot of work, if the thing doesn't run or has a broken connecting rod. If it DOES have major damage internally, an attempt to crank and start it won't make things much worse. But this is your call.

 

[Xcudame]

Sounds like, if I'm reading your post correctly, this engine is not needed right away. It turns over by hand with a wrench (1 1/4" socket and ratchet) which indicates it's not seized up. Since you already added oil to each cylinder, just keep turning it once a week or so to keep it free until you get ready to rebuild it.

 

[gzig5]

I've got an engine in storage that was built the beginning of this year. I knew it would be a while before it would go in, so the builder suggested that I use a fogging oil in each cylinder and through the distributor hole into the cam/lifter galley. do that every couple weeks and turn it over by hand. I'll be making a priming shaft this week to get fresh oil to the bearing bores too. I think the fogging oil or a mix of ATF and oil in the cylinders is a good idea to keep things loose and corrosion away.