ignition switch

[booyaballer]

I've read how these cars typically fry the connectors because of the load they carry and mine is no exception. so i have a few questions as i rebuild my column.

Can the original just be rewired or is it just not worth the hassle?

can anyone recommend a sturdy aftermarket ignition switch?

have the aftermarket switches been improved to carry the load or will they eventually end up the same?

Thanks!

 

[Challenger RTA]

Can the original just be rewired or is it just not worth the hassle?

Yes in a different way. The bulkhead connectors 18 and 16 also need to be checked

72RoadRunnerGTX did a good video on the problem. https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors​

Just my 2¢ The red battery feed and black acc feed wires are the higher current loads. I would remove them from the factory connector and use the connector appropriately sized. for the load. Then if need be replace the original connector. The others do not carry that much load.

 

[EV2RTSE]

I picked up one of these from Rock Auto, it has beefier red and black wires.
More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US88

 

[booyaballer]

Thanks!

 

[FrankenKuda]

Another thought is to get some of the load off those terminals. If you're up for it, move the headlamps and if equipped fog lamps off this circuit with a power relay under the hood. Same thing if you run cooling fans or the like under the hood. It would be good to keep anything pulling power under the hood out of the IP harness, to keep the vehicle loads off those circuits.
The factory wiring, all goes through the amp gauge in the dash. Keeping heavy loads off of that circuit will help the wiring survive. LED bulbs in non-flasher or dimmer circuits, will also help reduce the overall load.