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1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

budascuda

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That looks neat, but to get one task done per day, I don't know, you might have to come out of retirement!😉
 

340challconvert

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Installed a new mini starter with the electrical extensions to maintain proper clearance and to prevent unintentional grounding.
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340challconvert

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Installed gas tank vent 1970 non emissions. the grommets were a tight fit. The original grommet had a white factory mark still on it!
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340challconvert

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Just as a sidebar note; I used a low install transmission jack to install the exhaust system by myself. Really made the job much easier and worked with the jack one side at a time, started with the head pipe and moving on down to the back. Being able to adjust the height along the length of the pipe, resonator and muffler made it easier to install the very stiff nos factory hangers. When you have no helper; this is one way to accomplish the task! :lol:
 

340challconvert

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Thanks guys for the "how does it run" inquiries!

I am anxious to start and run the engine for the initial break in; have to resolve the electrical issue.

Running into a common electrical issue; will not crank from the ignition key. Car does crank from the starter relay

Car ran and started normally by the key prior to tear down!

Did a review of the wiring harnesses and under dash wiring;

Found the main red power wire from the steering column had been cut from the coupling and spliced separately with a fuse (before I owned the car.) Wires were loose and I am fixing that issue.

I had pulled all the engine wiring harness, cleaned up the terminals and reinstalled with dielectric grease

Neutral safety switch and wiring harness new M&H into a rebuilt trans

Ground wire (brown) at NSS unit tested and ground is good

No power to yellow wire at NSS to close circuit when ignition key in either start 1 or 2 positions

New mini starter with new starter harness (these mini's crank strong and fast)

Still working on solving this issue
 
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Challenger RTA

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Remember as you probably know, the starter relay needs a ground through the mounting screw or automatic neutral sw. This is not your problem as of yet.
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You have to find out if the problem is in the connector bulkhead or column or the ignition sw. Could be a wire.
While plugs connected. And the ing sw in the start position. Try to probe the yellow wire at the column plug then at the bulkhead connector. That will help narrow it down. While fiddling with it, it might self correct loose connection.
 

340challconvert

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Remember as you probably know, the starter relay needs a ground through the mounting screw or automatic neutral sw. This is not your problem as of yet. View attachment 123000
You have to find out if the problem is in the connector bulkhead or column or the ignition sw. Could be a wire.
While plugs connected. And the ing sw in the start position. Try to probe the yellow wire at the column plug then at the bulkhead connector. That will help narrow it down. While fiddling with it, it might self correct loose connection.
Thank you for your thoughts and the diagram; appreciated.
The main red power wire that comes out of the harness under the dash to the steering column wiring was the culprit.
Redid the connection with a 20 amp fuse for safety on this line.
Good ground on the NSS terminal. Yellow power wire at NSS now has power on start II, engine cranks w key!
Great diagram btw. Thanks again
Phil
 
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