1970 cuda dash dilemma

[red on red cuda]

Hi I am new to this forum so I don't know if I am in the right section. I have played with muscle cars all my life but just got Mopars about 10 years ago. Starting with a 1970 Challenger RT/SE 440 FK5 with 2 fender tags which I still have. I also have a couple of 1970 Cudas which I bought from a gentleman a few years ago that he had in the back of his race shop under blankets since 1979 when he decided to start racing Chevies. The one I am working on now is all stock and I like everything about it but the non rally dash. I have a real nice rally dash that I want to put in it but do you think it will hurt the value much. I don't plan on selling but you never know.This is the fender tag of options BS23 VOE 112+++ FE5 H6E4 000 A14 122057 FE5 A22 A32 B51 C16 C55 G36 J25 J45 M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42 N96 R11 26 END. I have it on a rotisserie right now getting ready to paint It has 26000 miles on it which is not much but then you don't drive much with a 6 pack and 4:10 gears. Thanks for the input

 

[challenger6pak]

I would take the original cluster and wiring and store it. Then I would run the rallye cluster with it's wiring. It won't hurt the value of the car. Do you have a woodgrain switch panel?

 

[red on red cuda]

Hi and thanks for the reply. I think I will put in the rally dash now because it is easy while it is apart and keep the old setup for the next person because it would be a pain to change after all completed. Sorry I don't have a woodgrain switch panel. Also do you know what company or number makes the most accurate FE5 paint for this car. I am going to go base coat clear coat. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[challenger6pak]

The original paint was PPG single stage enamel.

 

[Moparparts]

Watch out for those FE5 paints. I have seen 3 or 4 recently painted cars at shows in my area painted FE5 form some different suppliers and the color is way off from the factory color. These people tell me that was what paint they ordered. Best thing to do is buy the smallest amount you can first and shoot a test panel to be sure. If it is not correct try a different company. Through the years i found DuPont Centari to be one of the closest to factory colors but have not used any for quite a while.

Hi and thanks for the reply. I think I will put in the rally dash now because it is easy while it is apart and keep the old setup for the next person because it would be a pain to change after all completed. Sorry I don't have a woodgrain switch panel. Also do you know what company or number makes the most accurate FE5 paint for this car. I am going to go base coat clear coat. Thanks again for the reply.

 

[challenger6pak]

You will need a wood grain switch panel to match the rallye cluster. I have had fits with the Dupont paint matching. I was told it was because it was not the original factory paint brand. The guys at my local Ditzler PPG store have always got it right. One of the guys went to work for the Dupont store. He played with the formulas a little and then got it right. I think the main varible is human. Try to take something to the store that has the original paint on it. Something that was not exposed to sunlight for all these years. Have them match it.

 

[red on red cuda]

Watch out for those FE5 paints. I have seen 3 or 4 recently painted cars at shows in my area painted FE5 form some different suppliers and the color is way off from the factory color. These people tell me that was what paint they ordered. Best thing to do is buy the smallest amount you can first and shoot a test panel to be sure. If it is not correct try a different company. Through the years i found DuPont Centari to be one of the closest to factory colors but have not used any for quite a while.

Hi and thanks for the names. I will check the inside doors for the original color and see how close I can get.

 

[red on red cuda]

Hi and thanks Challenger. I am sorry I do have all the parts for the rally dash I thought you were looking for one. I will try to check the paint and get it right with the inside doors. Thanks again

 

[Moparparts]

DuPont Paint Match

I agree with you challenger6pak about the possible human factor or maybe store supplier because i painted close to 75 classic cars and trucks along with a lot of late model vehicles inc. panel and overall paint jobs through the years of all makes and models with DuPont single stage Centari from my supplier and had excellent color match and durability results with my same DuPont supplier. A few of the cars and trucks i painted over 25 years ago are still in my area and look very good yet. I have also not had good results with matching with there readers even on some late models vehicles still the best way to do it by far is test panels by their mix you know exactly what you are going to get providing they use the same formula.

You will need a wood grain switch panel to match the rallye cluster. I have had fits with the Dupont paint matching. I was told it was because it was not the original factory paint brand. The guys at my local Ditzler PPG store have always got it right. One of the guys went to work for the Dupont store. He played with the formulas a little and then got it right. I think the main varible is human. Try to take something to the store that has the original paint on it. Something that was not exposed to sunlight for all these years. Have them match it.

 

[challenger6pak]

I hate the readers. I have NEVER had one read correct. They can be a good tool to get started, but that is it. Most of the time it seems they read a shade too dark.

 

[a68postcar]

if you don't mind, I'll add my 2 cents. when I'm getting ready for paint, I try to find an obscure spot on the body that hasn't seen sun or weather. usually behind the door panels. bottom of the trunk lid. the area under the upper door seals under the chrome drip rail. and make it the same, or as close as possible. if this is not an option. you are at the mercy of your preferred paint mfr. and don't forget the reality that no 2 painters paint the same. even with the same equipment. and that the paint on an original FE5 car is in fact, 40+ year old single stage. the color isn't the same as it was then. so IMHO if you are happy with the color when it is assembled and you are cruising in your 70 6pack car,who really needs to be all that concerned with a .0002 gram mix difference? I also agree that the reades are not the ideal way to go. but if your paint guy is any count at all, it isnt an insurmountable issue. centauri was one of the best out there, and i still use it from time to time. dupont chroma for me thanks. premier if possible!

 

[a68postcar]

How bout an update????????