flamesoldier
Member
How do most of the guys with 340 six packs drop in there motor since you cant use a traditional 4 barrel engine hoist lift plate, do they use the cylinder head threaded holes on faces?
340 six pack engine drop in question
- Thread starter flamesoldier
- Start date
benguin
Active Member
It's been a while, but I think I used a stout chain with the fore and aft holes on the cylinder heads where the battery ground is located. No issues, but I was pretty gentle with it.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
4 six packs smooth things right out.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Put the short block in then put the heads on and intake.
flamesoldier
Member
Yeah thats what i am planning to do
flamesoldier
Member
Motor is fully assembled
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Then do as benguin suggest,opposite heads.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Or this plate from Summit looks like it would bolt to the center carb mount and pick up the inner bolts for the two outboard carbs.
Performance Tool W41034 Performance Tool Engine Lift Plates | Summit Racing
Performance Tool W41034 Performance Tool Engine Lift Plates | Summit Racing
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
I always bolt it to the K frame & drop the body over .
TIMINATOR
Active Member
I have helicoiled and welded a lot of aluminum manifolds, and other than water corrosion repair, the number 1 cause for repair is folks using a carb plate to install an engine and stripping out carb bolt holes or ripping part of the boss off. As commented by an ex Detroit design guy, "manifold bolts are designed for attaching a 3 pound carburetor to the engine, not lifting a 500+ engine."
It will work if everything goes correctly, as in using fasteners that go to the entire depth of the threads and are tightened correctly. Lots of used manifolds have shorter fasteners used to attach the carb and stretched the top several threads so that the new fastener won't go to the bottom threads. Retap them to the bottom. Also on some aftermarket manifolds, the threads aren't very deep to begin with, measure the depth, and drill and tap those deeper.
I still recommend lifting by the end accessory holes, and install the bolts to full depth of the threads in those too.
TIMINATOR
It will work if everything goes correctly, as in using fasteners that go to the entire depth of the threads and are tightened correctly. Lots of used manifolds have shorter fasteners used to attach the carb and stretched the top several threads so that the new fastener won't go to the bottom threads. Retap them to the bottom. Also on some aftermarket manifolds, the threads aren't very deep to begin with, measure the depth, and drill and tap those deeper.
I still recommend lifting by the end accessory holes, and install the bolts to full depth of the threads in those too.
TIMINATOR
Similar threads
