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70 Challenger in paint jail

all original

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I had my engine at the dyno shop yesterday and we ended up with 600 ftlbs of torque and just under 500 hp, but the water pump screwed up before we could finish (new aluminum mopar performance). I think we were maxed out anyway, just could not finish final timing adjustments and idle speed.
 

all original

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HI All
I was able to install my engine and trans and thought I would post a couple of pics.

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all original

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HI all
Did some more work on my car. Things are moving slowly, but at least they are moving. Here are a few more pics

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Transamcuda

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Been there done that.. Its no fun. And I never got my $1500 back either. He passed away before I could get it back.
 

all original

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HI all
Not much has been happening for awhile. Im waiting for Jim at JS Restorations to finish my electrical parts so I can put the dash together an fire this bad boy up. The Canadian dollar has taken a noise dive, so buying parts is going to slow down as well.
 

gdrill

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Hey there. That looks great! I can't wait till mine is that far along. But that will be a while yet. I have too many projects on the go so I'm just collecting parts for my shell. But now I know there's another here in the city we will have to get together sometime.
 

quapman

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Sweet.

Is that A/C or a giant trans cooler?
 

Donny

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I've seen lots of paint adhesion issues. All I've seen was because the shop was too cheap to have the car media blasted, and the said shops thought they were infallible (most shops think this way) in all aspects of car building. I remember blasting a car and pulled off a sheet of paint, about 2mm thick, and about the size of a large computer moniter screen. That shop attempted to blame PPG for poor products, that shop is now out of business!
 

all original

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That's a hemi e body trans cooler
the shop that fixed my car said that if it wasn't for other body shops doing poor work he would not have much to do lol.
 

all original

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I finally have been able to start the car by borrowing a dash assembly and a steering column. I have installed the exhaust and started to tune my six pack carbs, thought I would let everyone know what im leaning and if it would help anyone else. First I found out that you have to use a 195 degree thermostat. If not for some reason fuel will pool up in the bottom of the intake and give you all sorts of troubles, installed a 195 problems gone!! Second trying to
adjust the front carb idle mixture then move it to the back did not work for me because the rear carb wants the idle mixture screws out farther than the fronts. The good news is that you can adjust the rear carb without taking it off because back in my tune up days I used a thexton idle mixture adjusting tool that fits in the small spaces. I ordered another so i can have one on each screw because its a bit tough to get in (see pics). Timing is also used in the mix to help keep the idle in the right spot so the throttle plates stay out of the transition circuit of the center carb.
Anyway Im just starting the tuning process and id just thought I would do a quick update.
 

DetMatt1

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Thanks for your post, nice work. I'm curious what you're using for fuel at this point, pump gas with ethanol? I wonder if running the 195 stat isn't just boiling the fuel that was pooling up under the carbs? Just a thought.
 

all original

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Im running shell 91 octane. I was wondering the same thing, normally I wouldn't run that high of a thermostat, but I
also never seen fuel pool in an intake like this before. I have been reading lots of articles on six pack tuning, some have said that these intakes do not atomize the fuel as good as they could and the higher thermostat helps this. We will have to see how it works in the summer. If you think about it these cars came with a 195 from new.
The other thing I found out is if you own a snap on timing light with the advance buttons and digital display
( the older ones mine is about 25 years old) be careful they will lie to you about where your timing is!!
Im thinking back about how many cars I have had trouble with timing, to find out now by an other engine builder
recently not to use them.
 

all original

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I had my car at the chassis dyno shop on Thursday trying to get the six pack carbs dialed in. Things went not bad once we figured out some ignition problems, and the outboard carbs throttle plates stick and the idle would be all over the place, will have to pull the carbs off and see what gives. I would like to pick your guys brains, first im running an orange box with a factory looking reproduction coil and a dual ballast resistor. The spark was so weak that it would not jump a spark tester in the run position. Did the basic tests, and want to match a better coil to the orange box. Did a lot of research and could not find a good answer for a good coil match. By the way does anyone have any experience with the rev-n-nator box and coil kit. Any ideas on a coil match would be great.
dyno run 2.JPG
 

DetMatt1

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I've heard good things about the rev-n-ator but have no personal experience with it. I will say that I converted from points to Pertronix with their flamethrower coil and absolutely loved it. Since the underhood restoration I had to get a new harness so I decided to go with Ma Mopar's electronic ignition. I'm using an orange box and I carried over the coil since it is still basically new. I just got it running a few days ago and it only has about 20 minutes worth of run time on it at this point but there's no indication that it was the wrong choice for a coil and it looks stock.
 
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wingcarenvy

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Looks great! Is this an original six pack car? Either way, with 600 lb/ft your going to have a good time!!
 

all original

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No it's not, wish it was. It's a A66 340 car and yes with that kind of torque it's going to be a lot of fun.
Bought the without the original engine and trans, im still looking for it and I hope some day I may find it
 
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