Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
71 Challenger in AZ
- Thread starter Olacmot
- Start date
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Notice all the great photos Challenger RTA has! 
The block is definitely an 80's 318 block. I guess it's possible they bored it out to 4.04" 340 size, but that sure would leave some thin cylinder walls!
The red and black power wires through the bulk head connector has always been a weak spot on Mopars. Later Police cars always had a separate connector going through the firewall. And that's the safe way to go.
The block is definitely an 80's 318 block. I guess it's possible they bored it out to 4.04" 340 size, but that sure would leave some thin cylinder walls!
The red and black power wires through the bulk head connector has always been a weak spot on Mopars. Later Police cars always had a separate connector going through the firewall. And that's the safe way to go.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
I’m looking at those Anderson connectors to separate the black and red wires out of the molex connector to be on the safe side. It looks like the black wire is 12awg and red is 10awg. Will 30A connectors be ok? Not sure of the type of wire that red one is and if it will carry more than 30A. This diagram doesn’t show what the fusable link is either, that might resolve this.
Thanks!
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The Anderson here is what I bought I went with one wire from alt to battery.It would depend what alternator current is going through them. The site shows what connectors are rated for and what size wire. There is circuit beaker that can put in line when you upgrade the wire.
Anderson Connectors SB50 Quick Connect Plugs for Positive and Negative Cables
Anderson Connectors SB50 Quick Connect Plugs for Positive and Negative Cables
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Sorry, maybe I was unclear because I used the under hood diagram. I’m at work and didn’t have the diagram for the dash/ inside, but the diagram I posted showed the wire size.
I’m talking about the red and black wires that go into the molex connector under the steering column. I’m assuming 30A connectors would be ok as 10 gauge wire should be rated for 30A, correct?
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Ok I think that was me. To answer your question. Yes. There is also a problem with that connector. They become over heated or loose which causes the problem.They weld themself together. The problem arises from adding non designed loads to the ignition switch and connector. And then the ignition switch becomes the weak point. The real fix is to remove high current from the connectors and switches.
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
This is a suggestion if you want to keep your amp meter.
You might consider using CHR2889809_FOOT_PUMP_WASHER_GROMMET_2000__05967.
10 gauge or 8 gauge might fit through. I would protect it some how,fusible link,fuse,circuit breaker. each one if you run 2
Here's where it came from. BY passing charging gauge 70 challenger Just a little extra information.
You might consider using CHR2889809_FOOT_PUMP_WASHER_GROMMET_2000__05967.
10 gauge or 8 gauge might fit through. I would protect it some how,fusible link,fuse,circuit breaker. each one if you run 2
Here's where it came from. BY passing charging gauge 70 challenger Just a little extra information.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
As I said earlier about removing the high current load from the problem components (bulkhead connectors). I ran a one wire to the alternator ,removed the headlight power from splice one and fused it in the fuse box and a relay circuit. Changed 4 way feed to the horn fuse. Installed a voltage garage and removed the red and black wire to the amp gauge. The voltage gauge can pick up power and ground on the cluster. Voltage limiter or amp gauge wires. They were bad! That brings on an issue that requires an alternate wiring for accessories. Used the alternator feed bulkhead connector #18. From the battery with a fuse able link to #18 to feed the accessory side. So in essences there 2 feeds feeding the load. There are two other high current loads. 1 the heater fan 2 the rear defroster if there is one installed. Power windows are a whole other thing. This is just a brief description of what I did. So Don't do it the information is not complete it's just a summery.
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Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info, I need to review a bit further.
I’m going to get rid of the ammeter, as I bought the Dakota digital gauge cluster and it has a volt meter. I was just going to butt splice the ammeter leads together, but the article you posted mentions using a fusable link. Is that necessary?
Summary on making the molex/bulkhead connections safe for the future: 1) alternator bypass 2) reduce load through these connections via relays under the hood 3) get rid of ammeter (ammeter itself is not really a load, just a weak point, right?)
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
No link needed. the fusible link at the battery (red) is meant to protect the wiring from an overload. The diodes in the alternator (black) wire should blow if there is a dead short.
"(ammeter itself is not really a load, just a weak point, right?)" No It's the connections. The amp meter is fine. It's just an unnecessary risk. Bad connections generate heat.
"(ammeter itself is not really a load, just a weak point, right?)" No It's the connections. The amp meter is fine. It's just an unnecessary risk. Bad connections generate heat.
rjmartinez313
Member
Hi. I just found this post and took a while to read it all. I also have a 1971 Challenger and just completed reworking the electrical charging system and installing a DAKOTA RTX digital system. To resolve toasted firewall connectors/wires, I ran a wire from the alternator (60 AMP) direct to the battery positive terminal, moving headlights, side markers, parking lights, and the brake vacuum pump (using relays) to this circuit. I eliminated the wire going to the ammeter and now use the DAKOTA voltmeter, although I miss the ammeter readings. Had some issues getting the flashers to work correctly with all LED bulbs until I replaced the two rear turn signal bulbs for regular incandescent bulbs. Before that, none of the no-load-grounded or ungrounded flashers worked. Two incandescents and NAPA 552LL flashers resolved my issue. Good luck with the DAKOTA install; I did not get much help from their tech support people.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Thanks for following along! Ill keep you posted if I have issues with the gauges!
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
What colors are the wires coming out of the windshield wiper motor? I’m doing a quick refresh and trying to avoid a total rebuild as the motor ran when parked (little wiper motor joke there for ya
). I was going to re-insulate the existing wires and move on without obsessing.
I see the two greens clearly. What colors splice to the wires off the connector? The insulation off the motor wires looks to be yellow, red, and black. Is the following correct? Red from motor goes to red on the connector. Yellow from motor connects to blue (maybe green? Colors are faded bad) on the connector. Black from motor goes to brown on the connector.
Thanks!
). I was going to re-insulate the existing wires and move on without obsessing. I see the two greens clearly. What colors splice to the wires off the connector? The insulation off the motor wires looks to be yellow, red, and black. Is the following correct? Red from motor goes to red on the connector. Yellow from motor connects to blue (maybe green? Colors are faded bad) on the connector. Black from motor goes to brown on the connector.
Thanks!
rjmartinez313
Member
I took a photo of my 71's wiper motor showing the wiring (external) connections. It seems the wires from the motor's interior are bare but insulated by fabric/nylon sleeves. The sleeves on mine are slightly discolored but seem to be some faded shade to Yellow, Green, Light Brown and Beige? I enclose one photo that may help you match the wires & colors.What colors are the wires coming out of the windshield wiper motor? I’m doing a quick refresh and trying to avoid a total rebuild as the motor ran when parked (little wiper motor joke there for ya
I see the two greens clearly. What colors splice to the wires off the connector? The insulation off the motor wires looks to be yellow, red, and black. Is the following correct? Red from motor goes to red on the connector. Yellow from motor connects to blue (maybe green? Colors are faded bad) on the connector. Black from motor goes to brown on the connector.
Thanks!
View attachment 121207
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Excellent, this will do nicely.
It also solves my mystery of which wire is blue off the harness. Mine are so faded I couldn’t tell green from blue.
Thanks!
It also solves my mystery of which wire is blue off the harness. Mine are so faded I couldn’t tell green from blue.
Thanks!
TIMINATOR
Active Member
I'm in Avondale,AZ. if you need any local engine/drivetrain expertise. I'm doing a 72 Challenger with a 512 transplant. Mine was a 318 car, then mild 360, then a stroker/ roller cam 390" motor with a lo gearset 904, next a 440 ported and cammed 727 trans currently until the TFS headed, solid roller 512 is done. I too do all of my own work.
TIMINATOR
TIMINATOR
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Absolutely man! I intend to start thinking about engine options soon. If you ever make it over to pavilions on Saturdays let me know. I live close and head over there often… I plan on having the car there before summer.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
I took a break from electrical stuff this weekend, as my dash pad arrived and I wanted to bolt everything together to feel like I’m making progress. I needed to fix the AC vents, as the vanes were all broken, and one linkage piece that allows them all to move together was missing. I made a new linkage piece out of aluminum, and took some micro drill bits to drill out the posts on each vane that the linkage attaches to. I filed down the smallest nails I could find and got them to about .026” so they could fit through the linkage, and into the posts on each vane. I also plastic welded the vent frame as it was broken on the side, then painted the frame. I painted silver onto the face of each tumbler (not sure what these are called) and reassembled the vanes into each tumbler, and tumblers into the frame. It’s not perfect, but it functions and will make the dash look complete.
Two questions:
1) Are the vents supposed to be square inside the frame, or slightly angled? No matter what I do I can’t get them square. 3rd from last pic shows this. There is a roll pin that connects the two vents, and it sits in a metal insert that is in the middle of the frame… my last pic shows this. I think the insert prevents the vents from sitting forward enough so they’d be square. I think it is supposed to capture the roll pin, but I had to add a piece of aluminum to keep it in place. If the vents/tumblers are supposed to be square with the frame, I’ll probably calling this good enough anyway, this one was tedious.
2) The vents roll up and down pretty freely. I tried putting felt pads behind vent tumbler that holds the vanes, thinking it would provide some friction and keep the tumblers in place. I’m not sure I like this solution. Has anyone had this issue and found a good fix?
I still have the passenger side vent to do. I’ll probably give myself a break and do that in a few days.
Two questions:
1) Are the vents supposed to be square inside the frame, or slightly angled? No matter what I do I can’t get them square. 3rd from last pic shows this. There is a roll pin that connects the two vents, and it sits in a metal insert that is in the middle of the frame… my last pic shows this. I think the insert prevents the vents from sitting forward enough so they’d be square. I think it is supposed to capture the roll pin, but I had to add a piece of aluminum to keep it in place. If the vents/tumblers are supposed to be square with the frame, I’ll probably calling this good enough anyway, this one was tedious.
2) The vents roll up and down pretty freely. I tried putting felt pads behind vent tumbler that holds the vanes, thinking it would provide some friction and keep the tumblers in place. I’m not sure I like this solution. Has anyone had this issue and found a good fix?
I still have the passenger side vent to do. I’ll probably give myself a break and do that in a few days.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
Plugged away a bit more this weekend and cleaned up the variable speed wiper switch. I was getting intermittent continuity when I did the test procedure, especially in the off position. So I figured the insides needed cleaning and greasing. Did the same with the headlight switch and both work great; full continuity for the wiper switch in all positions! I can’t wait to get this thing back together. A few before and after pics: pics 1-3 are before pics of wiper switch. 4&5 are after pics of wiper switch. 6&7 are before of headlight switch. 8 is with one piece polished and the other not. 9 is headlight switch cleaned up before reassembly.
Olacmot
Well-Known Member
As for the dimmer switch, I used contact cleaner and some 1000 grit sandpaper to clean up connections. Ohmed it out and it seems to work as it should with higher resistance at one end and none at the other.
One issue… it’s difficult to get the dimmer switch into the full counter clockwise position. I am not even sure I realized it had this full CCW position when it was in the car. Is this for full power to the dash lights? Wondering if I should worry about it or not.
In this picture it seems the dimmer gets hung up when the bump pointed to by the red arrow contacts the angled metal pointed at by the blue arrow. Any suggestions on a fix? Or forget about it… or be OCD and find a new switch?
One issue… it’s difficult to get the dimmer switch into the full counter clockwise position. I am not even sure I realized it had this full CCW position when it was in the car. Is this for full power to the dash lights? Wondering if I should worry about it or not.
In this picture it seems the dimmer gets hung up when the bump pointed to by the red arrow contacts the angled metal pointed at by the blue arrow. Any suggestions on a fix? Or forget about it… or be OCD and find a new switch?
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