72RoadRunnerGTX
Well-Known Member
Then there is the factory approach to beefing up the alternator to splice 1 bulkhead Packard terminal weakness, the mid-seventies C-body recall. Much safer than the “shunt wire” bypass.
Alternator overcharging
- Thread starter Apewalski440
- Start date
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
What I described above is if you want to retain a stock configuration. Keeping the amp gauge. I think this is what 72RoadRunnerGTX did. He can explain what gauge (8GA) wire, Fuses and locations worked best for him. He is a proponent of the amp gauge. I think this one of his pictures.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
If you are going to do amp meter bypass.
Bulkhead and amp meter bypass.
Here are some examples of what can be done. Not saying what is correct for your application. Connecting to the starter relay circuit is electrically the same in this manner. But the the gauge of wire from the relay is not adequate. That's why it should be connected to the starter feed or directly to the battery.
Also a headlight relay circuit would be advisable. The main point of it is that the load is electrically connected to the alternator. That being said. Splice one also has to be feed from the alternator. The alternator never was a on a fusible link that feed splice one. It would be advisable to place one there. As it was said before the the diodes would or might blow before any damage . But why take a chance.
Bulkhead and amp meter bypass.
Here are some examples of what can be done. Not saying what is correct for your application. Connecting to the starter relay circuit is electrically the same in this manner. But the the gauge of wire from the relay is not adequate. That's why it should be connected to the starter feed or directly to the battery.
Also a headlight relay circuit would be advisable. The main point of it is that the load is electrically connected to the alternator. That being said. Splice one also has to be feed from the alternator. The alternator never was a on a fusible link that feed splice one. It would be advisable to place one there. As it was said before the the diodes would or might blow before any damage . But why take a chance.
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72RoadRunnerGTX
Well-Known Member
Yes, that is the current Challenger project, now in the final stages of completion. Not so much a proponent of the ammeter, more that I understand it is purpose and why it’s there, as well, understand how to maintain/service it to continue to operate within its design limits and all while running all the loading I need/want. Don’t buy into to all the fear mongering and misinformation circulating for years relating to the Chrysler passenger car ammeter.
Example of my approach to electrical for these cars these days.
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Apewalski440
Member
That perfect, I will study all of this and do my homework, thanks a lot everyone for your help and your kindness.
Keep you informed !
Keep you informed !
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
Some additional information. Take note of the wire from the alt stud to fuse and then feeds to the starters feed. It can also go to the battery when doing a complete alt bypass. This is just a generic diagram. Don't get confused by the other wiring in photo.
The stud for the red battery wire is what not to connect to. The gauge is not heavy enough. It has been done for convenance. That doesn't make it right.
The stud for the red battery wire is what not to connect to. The gauge is not heavy enough. It has been done for convenance. That doesn't make it right.
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