Anyone knows, if E & B HP ex-manifold #s are the same in '70?

[Chryslerdude]

Hello fellow Mopar people's ;-)

I got a set of HP manifolds, which I bought a while back for my '68 440 Charger..

But as life twists and turns, instead I need such a set more now, on my 383 Barracuda..

Anyone knows, if these will fit on the Cuda?

PN: 2843992-2 and 2808900 - They come up as B-Body HP manifolds in searches..

 

[Chryslerdude]

Oh sorry, I think I found that out myself already... and: They are the same..!

At least as long as the Cuda is an E-Body.. I read the one casting number wrong.. (coz it's friggin impossible to read ) - It's 2806900

But now that I already wrote.. I'm planning to get a 2,5" Magnaflow.. any advise in that regard..?

Thnx

 

[Lime Lite 70]

Yes Magnaflow makes a very good exhaust system, If you like a mild but aggressive tones. The power of your engine really sounds good. 2,5" and stainless really holds up well. Good luck on your project. Lime Lite 70

 

[Chryslerdude]

Yes Magnaflow makes a very good exhaust system, If you like a mild but aggressive tones. The power of your engine really sounds good. 2,5" and stainless really holds up well. Good luck on your project. Lime Lite 70

Thanks for your input man..!
I am a little in the dark in regards of how the "X" will influence the sound.. I really like the "two pipe with resonator setup" sound, but I ordered the Magnaflow set from FR-Sport just after I wrote the second message, by sea freight.. (which means that I will receive it in abt 1½ month, if I'm lucky, and it will fit in the container). Looking forward to fitting it..! :-D

 

[moparleo]

Here is an article with some of the differences between them. Hope it helps,
X-Pipe vs. H-Pipe, What is Better for Your Exhaust System?

 

[aussiemark]

I was checking which manifolds were correct for a 1970 440 E body recently and found it hard to find information for the E body I finally figured it out but the only difference between the 3 sets of manifolds I had was the pivot for the heat riser flap was 90 degrees different to the other ones.

 

[Lime Lite 70]

I've looking up data on your exhaust manifolds there from a 68/69 383 or 440 Mag engine from the LA Plant. Could not find any info for a 70 E body the motors are the same but no info on the manifolds. I would assume they are the same also but you know what happens when you A S S U M E .

 

[Rich G.]

According to the book I have 383/2bbl uses 2951865 and 2899970 . 383/440 uses 2951865 and 2899879 I don’t know what the difference is but as long as the flange is in the same place they’ll probably work.

 

[Rich G.]

This is what they look like. They are bolted together in the picture. I bought them years ago like that when I thought i might put in a BB, The heat riser is plugged off on these.

 

[Jeffrey Goodin]

I am getting ready to tackle the exhaust. Going with Manifolds 2951866-2 (Drivers side) & 3751071 (Passenger side riser is deleted)
Can II use Grade 8 bolts with washers or should I just stick with factory stud kit?
I ordered Magna Flow 2.5" Intermediate pipes Stainless. I and going into the Pypes 2.5 Part# SME11 system w Street PRO mufflers finished off with Pypes EVT 87- 2.5" 304 Stainless Tips. I will try to update all on my progress and what mods were needed.

 

[DetMatt1]

@Jeffrey Goodin
I’d stick with the studs as they seal the cooling system and you can go about Removing the manifolds in the future without worry of draining the cooling system.

 

[Jeffrey Goodin]

Thank you!

 

[aussiemark]

@Jeffrey Goodin
I’d stick with the studs as they seal the cooling system and you can go about Removing the manifolds in the future without worry of draining the cooling system.

I totally agree plus it will save wear and tear on the threads and make it easier to get the manifolds on using the studs as a guide otherwise you have to hold the manifold with one hand while trying to get the bolt started in the hole. If you use bolts you will probably snap the bolt latter when you try and remove the manifold because it goes to water they tend to get stuck 9 out of 10 times the stud will snap when you remove them. I always replace the studs with new ones while the heads are on the workbench because it's easier to deal with a broken stud here then in the engine bay.

 

[Chryslerdude]

I totally agree plus it will save wear and tear on the threads and make it easier to get the manifolds on using the studs as a guide otherwise you have to hold the manifold with one hand while trying to get the bolt started in the hole. If you use bolts you will probably snap the bolt latter when you try and remove the manifold because it goes to water they tend to get stuck 9 out of 10 times the stud will snap when you remove them. I always replace the studs with new ones while the heads are on the workbench because it's easier to deal with a broken stud here then in the engine bay.

Where's the combined "Agree, AND like" button..?

Thrilled to see, that this old thread came back to life! Also, thank you to the members who took time to write back.. Some of these kind and helpful answers, I missed completely.. Due to work, and moving my shop, I have been so busy during the summer. Actually, I never even had the Cuda out of the garage ONCE. But, in the evening, I try to revenge the neglect, by collecting bits n pieces to improve the car, and bring it closer to it's "original" configuration!

 

[Chryslerdude]

Here is an article with some of the differences between them. Hope it helps,
X-Pipe vs. H-Pipe, What is Better for Your Exhaust System?

Thanks..
During the reading of this article I realized something amusing, I hadn't thought much about.. namely that the SOUND is probably most important for me, when choosing exhaust for the Cuda! At least until I read abt. the differences from low to high revs. My Charger has (had) the sound all wrong, but ran GREAT, with some home brewed AAR style, 3" exhausts, (and a Voodoo cam). It sort of sounded like a Kawasaki 1300, no matter which side of the car you stand, you only heard 4 cylinders. With this side exhaust, it lost that lovely classic mumbling big block exhaust sound, when coming round the back of the car.

On the other hand, the Voodoo cam performed VERY well (not that I tried several other sporty cams), but that engine ran like crazy, and when I revved the engine, it sounded like a race car, and the little boy inside, was VERY happy!


So, rebuilding the engine, I am probably going for another Voodoo (the little boy don't want to loose the crazy power), but will also change the exhausts back to original "rear exit style", and hopefully recreate some "exhaust mumbling". I suspect the Voodoo to be the main culprit, when it comes to the "unintended, a-little-bit-to-smooth-Kawasaki-style" idle, but guess that's another price you pay for performance.. )