HINDSIGHT TIP: I installed the 4-speed factory tunnel without installing the transmission. That turned out to be a problem. Specifically, the TKX requires the engine/trans combo to be tilted downward which can create clearance issues at the factory 4-speed tunnel. I highly recommend that you install the transmission and mockup the new AMD tunnel first so you can determine if the new tunnel needs to be slightly raised (above the factory location). Now is the time to find that out.
During the floorpan work, I planned for the tunnel cutouts (two areas which avoid the factory crossmember) by mocking up the new AMD tunnel. Removing the console bracket for the automatic shifter was pretty straight-forward. I used a cordless 18V Ridgid cutoff tool and cutting discs. The rear console bracket is the same for automatic or manual so it remained in place.
A printed photo of the cutouts from the Internet added further confirmation of the cuts.
TIP: Check
everything above and below the tunnel prior to cutting so you do not have to repair anything due to making a mistake.
My original plan was to MIG weld the tunnel in place but the thought of sparks flying everywhere in my interior was scary. I considered using a wool blanket and welding underneath it but switched gear and sprung for a panel-bond adhesive installation. This turned out to be an excellent method and guarantees a permanent seal underneath the seam sealer.
Panel bond prep was very easy and I used self-tapping screws around the perimeter as well. The screws were left in place and seam sealer covered them above and below. NOTE: The crankshaft pilot bearing and flywheel are installed at this point but I will cover that later in the thread.
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Panel bond adhesive completed:
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