Bodywork question

[Paul D.]

I am stripping my car down to bare metal for a full restore. I have most of the outer shell stripped and want to start identifying all the dings and divots and such that need to be dealt with. Will it be a problem down the road painting wise if I use a magic marker to mark the spots needing repair? Areas will undoubtedly get sanded more after repair work so surface ink will be removed during that process but not sure if there will be chemical penetration into the metal which would cause an issue.

 

[Challenger RTA]

That's what Guide coat is for.It should't be a problem if you wipe it down with thinner,when prepping for primmer.

 

[Adam]

Guide coat is best, but sometimes I use a sharpie… no problem. However, bare metal should be sealed/sprayed with epoxy primer, then the body work done on top of the epoxy. Then a coat of poly, or high fill, primer on top of that. The poly primer gets block/wet sanded. Epoxy primer is tough, but not easy to sand.

 

[Paul D.]

Guide coat is best, but sometimes I use a sharpie… no problem. However, bare metal should be sealed/sprayed with epoxy primer, then the body work done on top of the epoxy. Then a coat of poly, or high fill, primer on top of that. The poly primer gets block/wet sanded. Epoxy primer is tough, but not easy to sand.

I have already planned on epoxy primer and then a more sandable primer on top of that but I want to try and pull all the little depressions up as much as possible first. I want to use as little body filler as possible. However I have bought some body filler from Eastwood which has aluminum particles infused in it for the imperfections I can't totally resolve.

 

[KVB]

I have already planned on epoxy primer and then a more sandable primer on top of that but I want to try and pull all the little depressions up as much as possible first. I want to use as little body filler as possible. However I have bought some body filler from Eastwood which has aluminum particles infused in it for the imperfections I can't totally resolve.

I agree with epoxy primer for longevity....It's as solid as you can get! Once your panel is prepped and perfectly clean of rust and ready to go, it will provide the best etch/protection one can do. A good sealer works well too and will last a long time also, and it is easier to sand as needed.

Years ago, I used to spray RM/Diamont before water based was developed, and their line of EP15 (epoxy) was as tough as it gets.

SO, if I'm going through all the work to make the car "perfect" to ones standards (new panels around?); I'm putting on an epoxy primer and work out the dents/dings at a later date and go from there.

Also, I'd recommend and research the new paint/product lines from your local channels and stick with the same line for best results.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Stripping car down to bare metal.2nd step metal prep. strip it prep it that day. Don't wait. I like SEM Rust mort. Buy a gallon you will need it. more expensive quart at a time.

 

[Paul D.]

I agree with epoxy primer for longevity....It's as solid as you can get! Once your panel is prepped and perfectly clean of rust and ready to go, it will provide the best etch/protection one can do. A good sealer works well too and will last a long time also, and it is easier to sand as needed.

Years ago, I used to spray RM/Diamont before water based was developed and their line of EP15 (epoxy) was as tough as it gets.

SO, if I'm going through all the work to make the car "perfect" to ones standards (new panels around?); I'm putting on an epoxy primer and work out the dents/dings at a later date and go from there.

Also, I'd recommend and research the new paint/product lines from your local channels and stick with the same line for best results.

I've been dealing with Eastwood for supplies. They seem to be a high quality company with high quality products.

 

[KVB]

Don't apply it with a paint roller.

 

[Paul D.]

Don't apply it with a paint roller.

I have considered rolling it as that would work better for my work area situation but interested in why you say I shouldn't.

 

[KVB]

I have considered rolling it as that would work better for my work area situation but interested in why you say I shouldn't.

It’s more of a personal choice for me. If ya spray it, the thickness/mil is consistent. If ya roll it on…who knows???

 

[73-Cudah2]

Good information guy's thanks.