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Bulk Head Connector

Byron

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I am in the process of removing the dash to install a new dash pad in my '73 Challenger. I'm down to removing the wires from the bulk head connector in the engine compartment . Do I need a tool to pull out the wires? Or is there an another way to remove the fuse box?
 

Byron

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OK, I have removed the fuse block from the bulk head connector. Tried to pull wires out, but not moving. I don't want to cause problems by yanking out and breaking wires. What is the correct way to removing the wire clips from the bulk head to remove the fuse block harness?
 

HooToTheCore

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You should not need to pull any wires from the bulkhead connector or fuse block. They should come out towards the interior as an assembly and the harness should all come out with the dash, including the bulkhead connector and fuse block. You just need to disconnect all engine compartment connectors and the heater box wires to the fan resistor and the connectors to the rear harness. May need to disconnect door switches and will need to disconnect antenna wire from radio. Also disconnect brake switch and connectors to the steering column. Heater box cables should be disconnected from the heater box.
 

Byron

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OK I have everything under dash disconnected, door switches, steering column, antenna etc. I will take a look at the harness in the engine compartment tomorrow. Thanks! I appreciate the help.
 

72RoadRunnerGTX

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As mentioned, no need to remove individual wires from the bulkhead connector block. Disconnect the engine, wiper and forward lighting harness connectors from the engine compartment side. Remove the two stamped nuts that secure the block to the firewall.
 

Byron

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Thanks, everyone for the help! I carefully disconnected and marked all connections took pictures. Pulled the harness through the firewall and removed the dash. Now in the process of installing the new dash pad.
 

NoCar340

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While it's apart, you'd do well to clean all the contacts with a good electrical cleaner like CRC Lectra-Motive (#05018) and small brushes or X-Acto blades. When you reassemble it, put a bit of dielectric grease in the sockets to prevent corrosion and maintain good contact. It goes a long way toward preventing mysterious electrical issues later. Never pack electrical connectors full as some people advise... it's not uncommon for connectors to spread apart and lose contact due to the hydraulic forces created by assembling a connector with excess dielectric grease.
 

Byron

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Thanks for the info. Taking notes, I have the time to do it correctly, nows the time. I am also working on the clock, the only instrument that does not work. From what I've read most don't . I have it torn apart found there is power up to the small coil, but nothing beyond, it's very corroded, so I am going to try to rewind the coil and see what happens. The points are in good shape.
 
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