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Camber Adjustment Question

7dCuda

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I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm.

My question is : to adjust camber via the upper control arm camber bolts do I just need to have the front wheels off the ground or do I also need to back off the torsion bar tensioner bolts?
 

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7dCuda

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Not sure how all that pertains to my question...it certainly doesn't answer it.

I have the FSM and didn't find the answer to my question which is why I asked the question to the forum.
 

Katfish

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I believe the answer is no to both, having watched them doing alignments,
They definitely don't loosen the height adjustment, and the wheels are on the lift.
 

7dCuda

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No That is not the fix. That is toe. If you put the tie rods back the same count of threads it will be close to what it was.
You don't adjust toe via the camber bolts and I can't adjust toe until camber is set.
I'm measuring camber with a camber gauge and have too much negative camber on both wheels...one is -1.5 and one is -2.....and I only need - .5

Didn't know if just a wrench on the camber bolts would be able to move the upper control arm with the weight of the car on the wheels and with the torque on the torsion bars.....which is why I asked the question.
 

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Didn't know if just a wrench on the camber bolts would be able to move the upper control arm with the weight of the car on the wheels
That's how a car is aligned. Use two plates of metal or plywood with grease in between under the tires. Or garbage bags. So your not only replacing a few components you doing a front end alinement.
 
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Challenger RTA

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Here is some info that I collected for my 71 Cuda:

factory alignment specs for 71 cuda

Camber: -.25 to -.50
Caster: As much positive as possible up to +3
Toe: +1/16" to 1/8" total

With your modern radials:

1/16 toe in
0.5 degree negative camber
as much caster as possible up to around 3 deg positive.
Factory specs are sometimes wide in range and set up for bias ply tires. Factory castor is negative in manual steering cars so grandmas and turn the wheel. And even power steering car have little caster to make them turn like a slush box.
 

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Ok, if the top of the tire needs to come inward & the rear adjuster is already all the way inward you can only adjust the front one to get more adustment ., the reverse is true if the tire needs to come outward so to move it out you can only use the rear adjuster
 

cuda joe

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don;t touch the torsion bars . you can jack up the car so the wheels are hanging to adjust the cam bolts there is less stress on the parts that way then tighten bolts and lower onto the turntables if you don;t have turntables or caster gages take it to an aligement shop you will never get it right
 

Bret Schneider

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"I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm."

Wouldn't hurt to check the camber I guess but for the record, none of those parts affect camber.
 

7dCuda

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"I need to adjust camber on my 70 Cuda after replacing tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm."

Wouldn't hurt to check the camber I guess but for the record, none of those parts affect camber.
Understand.....camber has never been spot on.....a ride height change has now made it worse though so want to get it adjusted so I can check/adjust toe after the steering component replacements.
 

Bret Schneider

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That makes sense.
I used to align cars for a living so trust me when I say your best bet is to find a reputable alignment shop and pay them to do it. Computerized alignment equipment has come a long ways from the camber gauge and light beam methods of the past. Maybe ask other classic car people in your area if they have a shop they recommend. Stay away from the "toe and go" alignment franchises.
 

heminut

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That makes sense.
I used to align cars for a living so trust me when I say your best bet is to find a reputable alignment shop and pay them to do it. Computerized alignment equipment has come a long ways from the camber gauge and light beam methods of the past. Maybe ask other classic car people in your area if they have a shop they recommend. Stay away from the "toe and go" alignment franchises.
I used to do alignments too, and this advice is spot on! If you start messing with the cam bolts to try and correct your camber you're probably going to throw your caster out of whack doing it. Best to just take it to a good alignment shop and let them set everything. A warning though, quite often these cars don't have enough adjustment in them to get a good alignment. You may need to replace to upper control arm bushings with the Moog offset bushings to get a good caster setting. You can get them here;
or here;
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I used to do alignments too, and this advice is spot on! If you start messing with the cam bolts to try and correct your camber you're probably going to throw your caster out of whack doing it. Best to just take it to a good alignment shop and let them set everything. A warning though, quite often these cars don't have enough adjustment in them to get a good alignment. You may need to replace to upper control arm bushings with the Moog offset bushings to get a good caster setting. You can get them here;
or here;
I got adjustable upper arms from BAC. My alignment tech thanked me because it was so simple to adjust. Can also get much more caster than other methods.
 
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