Can you decoders decode my vin......thanks.....

[Cuda Hunter]

great info! Thanks for sharing!

 

[bandit 73]

Ok , vol, got some numbers off the tranny, PK 4107691 3143 4003 stamped above the pan and OB296060 on the pad, which I think is whatever car/truck this one came from. Can we tell what this tranny came in.....

 

[volunteer]

Hiya. One thing for sure is that this trans is newer than '74 - - possibly even 1980 (B-body/360) - if the pad number is the year and last six digits of original vehicle. That would mean it has a 'lockup' converter since pre-'78 versions are non- lockup. The 7-digit number after PK should begin with '36' for a '73 model. The 10,000 day (build date) code would be the 3143 number but that seems to coincide with an early 1970 production. My info only covers 1962 thru 1974 727's. Maybe someone else here has up-to-date numbers? Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. ☹

 

[Cuda Hunter]

OB296060 This number appears to be a 70 barracuda. At least a 70 Hamtramck plant car.

 

[volunteer]

We need someone else to step forward. The '0' before the 'B' on the pad number could reference either 1970 or 1980 - - but the PK 41- tranny number is way newer than 1970. This is the one requiring decoding.

 

[Cuda Hunter]

Who's our local decoder?

 

[bandit 73]

Thanks for the info on the tranny. Ya got my curiosity up now, what is it. Gonna have to pull the tranny. Seems both threads for the starter bolts are too stripped to hold the starter. I tried JB weld with studs but that pulled loose. So, looks like a couple of he le coils will be next option. Seems I got some torque converter leak down going on I wish to try and repair. Appears fluid is coming out the shift selector/passing gear seal and possible reverse switch. Can those both be done with pulling the pan...thanks much....

 

[volunteer]

Seals and O-rings do tend to deteriorate just with age - even if not driven much for several years. You should be able to get at the shift and kickdown/throttle shaft area - if exhaust not in the way. It is cramped there at the best of times. But, if car high enough to (safely) get underneath, one option is to remove the neutral/backup switch, carefully, with large pan underneath. This will allow much of the pan fluid to drain. Be prepared as it will tend to go sideways as the threaded hole points. I believe this opening is below the shaft seals entry so if these two seals are to be removed it sure helps to have fluid not pushing against the underside (of the seals) - to avoid extra mess. The smaller/inner seal is on the kickdown shaft and larger outer one works on the shift selector shaft. It is metal-encased but sticks up a bit so a thin, sharp tool can be tapped into it to gently pry it up and away. Not really difficult but can be tiresome. Be patient. There are a few tips to get replacements back in but mostly common-sense (and patience). The larger seal can be tapped in with a 15/16" socket and suitable hammer - depending on access. Wouldn't hurt to check the kickdown band adjustment but I would wait until pan and gasket removed then low-reverse band also adjusted and of course new filter and gasket. Also note that the cooling line exits just to the front of the shift shaft so this is another place for fluid to leak.

 

[bandit 73]

Thanks. I am just gonna pull the tranny in order to retap and thread started bolt holes so SHOULD be easier to replace the seals then.....