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clutch problem

moparstables

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When I push in on the clutch the throw out bearing goes in to far and it is making a noise. I backed off the adjustment nut but now that rod is sloppy. What is the proper way to adjust the nut on the adjustment rod? I had it in a shop and they put a rubber bumper on the firewall to keep the clutch peddle from going down too far but it is still to much travel.
 

Daves69

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What car and drive line are you working on?

Do you know what clutch type is in there (three finger, diaphragm)?
 

moparleo

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How far do you have to push the pedal to disengage the transmission? You should not have to push all the way down or it is out of adjustment. Is this a new clutch ?

Should be about 1" freeplay. Pedal stop is a good idea. You shouldn't have to push the pedal to the floor.
 
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moparstables

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How far do you have to push the pedal to disengage the transmission? You should not have to push all the way down or it is out of adjustment. Is this a new clutch ?

Should be about 1" freeplay. Pedal stop is a good idea. You shouldn't have to push the pedal to the floor.

I am working on a 1971 Cuda 440 4 speed. This is a new clutch. I will need to check free play. I don't need to push the pedal all of the way down to disengage the clutch.
 
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Racer57

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I'm having the same issues ever since I had a TKO500 installed. Its going back to the shop next week to be worked on. They suspect that the clutch plate and pressure plate are not compatible with each other and the clutch springs are too big and are getting hit before the clutch has enough travel to disengage. At first I suspected that the pressure plate adjustment screws were set wrong, but mine doesn't have them.
 

moparleo

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moparstables is this a new, complete clutch kit that you installed ? Matching clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing ? This was a clutch replacement not a clutch conversion ?
 

moparstables

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This is an all new setup from Summit Racing. This was a clutch replacement. My wife got heavy on the foot and destroyed the old one. lol Really she did drag race a few years ago.
 

Daves69

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Well let's try this again.
Do you know what clutch type is in there (three finger, diaphragm)?
Sorry but "This is a new clutch" doesn't quite answer the question.
 

moparstables

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The clutch plate is a diaphragm style. I did adjust the free play to about 1.25 inches and that took care of the throw out bearing hitting the clutch. I just didn't have it adjusted far enough. Thanks for all of the advice.
 

NoCar340

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When you installed the diaphragm clutch, I hope you removed the over-center spring on the pedal assembly. If not, go back and replace it with a much-lighter spring (try a cut-to-length one from a hardware store or the "Dorman drawers" at an auto supply). We had to do this with a Centerforce on a friend's '69 Charger R/T several years back after the clutch pedal stayed on the floor during a full-throttle upshift. Luckily there was no engine damage.
 

Daves69

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cdummer43

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So with a diaphragm style you for sure have to remove the "Over center spring"?

I am having the same problem with my new clutch pedal sits about 2" from the floor. I adjusted the clutch rod adjustment to make it even but the I think that it is out too far for a new clutch.

And if you don't mind me asking why exactly that is it needs to be removed?

Thanks in advance
 

Avalanche

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The over center spring, I believe, serves 2 purposes. It helps to take some pressure off the 3 finger spring so its not too heavy and easier to depress. So it helps to bring the pedal to the floor. when the pedal returns close to the top it then helps bring it to the top.
A diaphram clutch is much lighter and dosent need the spring to help depress the pedal. So no overcenter spring needed, you will need a lighter spring to bring the pedal to the top since the diaphram wont do that. If you dont install a light spring to return the pedal to the full top position it could cause the clutch to be slightly engaged and wear .
 

DustyDave

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When you installed the diaphragm clutch, I hope you removed the over-center spring on the pedal assembly. If not, go back and replace it with a much-lighter spring (try a cut-to-length one from a hardware store or the "Dorman drawers" at an auto supply). We had to do this with a Centerforce on a friend's '69 Charger R/T several years back after the clutch pedal stayed on the floor during a full-throttle upshift. Luckily there was no engine damage.
I have the same deal and mine is doing this… Clutch pedal sometimes stays on the floor and I have to pry it up. My over center spring was not removed. But what I don’t understand is why would that cause it to stay on the floor?…. It’s such a strong spring.
 

Daves69

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But what I don’t understand is why would that cause it to stay on the floor?…. It’s such a strong spring.
Yep, they are.
The OC springs are designed for a B&B clutch cover, not the diaphragm style which requires much less peddle effort from your leg. The OC spring works in two directions with the B&B cover. When adjusted properly, the OC spring assists your leg to compress the spring load of the cover to release the disc. As you lift your leg on the way up, the cover spring load has enough force to overcome the OC spring and will push the peddle back up. When the peddle is up just past the over center, the OC spring pulls the peddle up to the stop.

Evidently you current OC spring is overriding the diaphragm spring load, hence the peddle stays on the floor. Even if the peddle returns a bit, the OC spring will affect your plate pressure if it hasn't moved past center, so it can pull the peddle to the top and relieve pull down force.
So, the OC spring is either pulling the peddle up or it's pulling it down all the time, depending on position.
 
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