Coil gets hot with key off and key out of ignition lock

[Richard Hibbs]

Have been trying to start car for break in and the coil gets really hot. I can start after long cranking session but runs really rough. Changed ballast resistor, gone over plug wires in right sequence, rotor pointing at number one cylinder, carb screws 2 full turns out (AVS) , car started but would not turn off with key, had to pull coil wire.

Charging battery on 2 amps with cables on battery, key off and out, coil really hot.

Engine wiring harness has a Black/white line wire in bulk head connector that is always on (hot). Is that normal? Is it supposed to be energized with key off?

Could bad ammeter cause engine to not start? or start after long cranking session?

Going nuts here.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Rapidfire]

Swap a different coil in if you have an extra. Might be defective. I have had that happen to me before. If it isn't, at least you've eliminated something simple.

 

[Rich G.]

Sounds like you got wires crossed somewhere or burned through together. You must have voltage to the coil when the car is off if it keeps running and the coil gets hot

 

[tonysrt]

If you have a voltmeter check the + side of the coil with key off, sounds like you have voltage there with key off. The long cranking for a new engine is not good. Check to make sure your getting a good spark when cranking because you must have 12 volts at the coil when cranking and 6-8 when key is in run position. If you don't have higher voltage when cranking spark will be weak and hard to start. Did you prime carb and know there is fuel in it?