Dowel pin on Steering coupler size

[Challenger RTA]

getting the main pin out of the coupler to disengage it.

You need one of Theis and good drift pin. Using a 5/16 or 1/4 drift pin don't remember what size. With the steering box off. Take the coupling apart to get the steering box out. Place on a hard surface to drive the pin through.

 

[71Style]

I'm in the process of removing my column to do a refresh/ rebuild and replace all the internals and bearings- but we are having a baad time getting the main pin out of the coupler to disengage it.
Ideas?
I'm probably going to replace the coupler (all internals). If we can't get the pin out, would drilling it out be a solution?

I'm in the process of removing my column to do a refresh/ rebuild and replace all the internals and bearings- but we are having a baad time getting the main pin out of the coupler to disengage it.
Ideas?
I'm probably going to replace the coupler (all internals). If we can't get the pin out, would drilling it out be a solution?

I had a rough time with mine. I soaked it with Free All for a day or so and then used a pointed chisel and beat the crap out of it with a big hammer. Good luck!

 

[Ronbo73]

If you don't have access to a press you can use a vice to force it through most of the way. You may want to heat it up also, that may aid in the removal process. Put a metal/steel block with a through hole one one side and let the vise press on the other side of the pin. If/when the pin moves then do what Challenger RTA suggests. The key is a hard surface, not wood. The surface needs to be dense (metal/steel) so the work you put into removing the pin is not absorbed by the material below the part you are working on.

 

[Lunchbox]

Not arguing, but having a hard time seeing a way anything could fall out.
So the retaining cap comes off, then the internals push upwards and out.
I guess the designers were overly cautious.

Could have been there to keep everything together after the column was built, transported to the factory, and installed in the car.

Once everything is together in the car it doesn't appear to do much.

 

[Lunchbox]

I would also add a few thoughts when working on mine.

Most of the rebuild kits come with a new a new "Steering Shaft to Shoe Pin". I made the mistake of removing the original hardened and ground pin fro the inner shaft (which was really hard to do). The new dowel was lesser quality and undersized to the hole in the shaft. Thinking that it would cause slop I went back to the original. After talking with some people and inspecting what I had, there was really no wear on the parts, and in the end all that was needed was to be re-greased and top seal installed.

Also the new covers are made out of what appears to be inferior metal that doesn't stay clamped as nice as the originals, may want to try and reuse your original if you can.

 

[Ronbo73]

I would also add a few thoughts when working on mine.

Most of the rebuild kits come with a new a new "Steering Shaft to Shoe Pin". I made the mistake of removing the original hardened and ground pin fro the inner shaft (which was really hard to do). The new dowel was lesser quality and undersized to the hole in the shaft. Thinking that it would cause slop I went back to the original. After talking with some people and inspecting what I had, there was really no wear on the parts, and in the end all that was needed was to be re-greased and top seal installed.

Also the new covers are made out of what appears to be inferior metal that doesn't stay clamped as nice as the originals, may want to try and reuse your original if you can.

View attachment 156161

I also bought the kit to rebuild the steering coupler and found that the only parts that were worth using was the rubber boot and the metal top cover, my original was too bent and unusable. The shoe's were smaller and had to much slop and the new shoe pin was also smaller. I did purchase and use the cover assembly retaining spring that was shown earlier in the post.