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Engine swap question

fields47

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A question for those more knowledgable than me.
My 74 Challenger has a 360/727 engine/transmission with factory console floor shifter.
I plan to switch to a 440/727 combo.
Will my existing shifter linkage connect back up without modifications?
Any other changes I need to consider?

I do have the smaller radiator and will upgrade to the larger one if needed. Any thoughts on that?
The currrent radiator is a Champion aluminum 22" 3 row. They state good to 600 hp, Maybe overly optimistic on their part.
Also has 1.200" torsion bars that were on the car when purchased, so I should be good for the extra weight.
Thanks,
Randall
 

cuda joe

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I don;t know about the shifter linkage i do know the trans is different you will need a big block 727 trans
 

Xcudame

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You should be good to go with the big block 727 and your linkage. Just make sure the big block 727 has a tail shaft housing with the boss and two holes for the bracket holding the linkage. If not, the small block tail shaft housing can be swapped. Run a decent sized auxiliary transmission cooler and your aluminum 22" radiator should be fine. However, the radiator inlet and outlet is different between small blocks and big blocks. So it might be easier to get a 26" big block radiator. But I'd still run an auxiliary transmission cooler.

images (8).jpeg
 

fields47

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Thank for the replies. Would have been near impossible to get to the point I am at without help from folks on this site.
It's a relief knowing the linkage will switch over.
Definitely know I will have to have a BB transmission.
My car isn't set up for the 26" radiator and looks like a fair job to change the sheet metal to accomodate.I know I can get a 22" radiator with reversed inlet/outlet because the first one that shipped to me was like that and they had to swap it out.
I don't plan on going crazy with the horsepower. So, the 22" may work if I get a manual transmission radiator with no transmission cooler section and have a sepatate transmission cooler.
 

Katfish

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Try the 22, can always switch over to 26 later.
No need to change the sheet metal, there's very little blockage, not enough to worry about. Drill 2 holes on passenger side and add rubber bushings and it'll be good.
Ran mine that way for 20 yrs.
 

Xcudame

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I agree, try the 22" and the auxiliary transmission cooler. Aluminum radiators dissipate heat a lot better than the factory radiators. Consider a transmission pan like this too!

download (5).jpeg
 

fields47

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Ha! Good to know the 26" will fit as I will have to have a new radiator anyway, hate to cross the hoses.
Good info on the transmission pan too.
Informantion like this saves a lot of trial and error, for me anyways.
 

Xcudame

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A 440, especially a warmed up one, is going to dump a lot of power into the 727 which will warm the fluid up and anything done to keeping the fluid cool is the key for longevity. I know you're going to love going from a 360 to a 440! :)
 

blubyou340

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A 440, especially a warmed up one, is going to dump a lot of power into the 727 which will warm the fluid up and anything done to keeping the fluid cool is the key for longevity. I know you're going to love going from a 360 to a 440! :)
With that combo it wouldnt hurt to install front to rear unibody frame stiffeners i did on my chall with a warmed up 71 340. .was short on cash been welding 50 + years i used 3\4" square stock fairly heavy gauge cut to match front and rear frame rails used a camper leveling jack on both ends and welded a cluple beads of 7018 3/32" rod on botth sides then 1 in front of the cross member nothing big it works perfect you can feel the tightness when you get on it and corners great and did not spend a dime!!!! Also with the 440 you would need to upgrade to heavy torsion bars like from hoskess ... Good luck thats gonna be a sweet ride ( hold on)! You may even put a grab bar for older passengers lol
 

Xcudame

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fields47

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Thanks for the tips on the frame stifferers .
Being a former drag car, my frame already had the stiffeners installed.
I will have to check on the torque boxes to be sure they are upgraded as this is the only E body I have worked on underneath.
Lots of great knowledge offered by all and I know this will save me headaches down the road.
 
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