Factory A/C Removed 40 years ago - Now to be Re-Installed

[volunteer]

This is a '73 (340) Challenger with system 'moth-balled' (indoors) around 1980. Everything under the hood was removed - except for special water valve. The two evaporator fittings at firewall were sealed off and, as far as I can tell, the ducting and vacuum controls undisturbed. Car was never winter driven and still original blower and heater core. Nothing has needed replacing. Car will find a new home likely within a year from now so I feel it makes some sense to at least restore the A/C setup to as close to original as possible.
I need a link to diagrams and photos to establish the orientation of he under-hood components. The (inefficient) original Condenser has a lot of flattened fins as it was left installed for several more years. If I was to replace it, what would be a good choice? I noticed listings for between about $250. and $450. Any good ideas? What other components would need replacing - such as receiver/dryer, low-press switch - - - ? I have a couple of those special alternator brackets but haven't figured it out yet. Being a twin-pulley system, alternator will need to fit as well. Anyone know what 'black' the compressor and brackets should be? - - gloss or s.g? Thanks for your time.

 

[Rich G.]

Here’s my 73 CUDA . I did semi gloss on the brackets. I got a new condenser from Classic Air . They should have everything you need except the 2 compressor hoses . Hopefully you have them.

 

[fasjac]

Nice job!

 

[AUSTA]

If your changing to 134A gas you will need to change your drier & they recommend changing the main hoses
I think i changed my compressor oil to PAG 100 as well been running cold for a couple of years now

 

[volunteer]

Thanks. Sometimes one pic worth a thousand words. I'd still need a few more thousand words, though. Looks like a billet alum pulley on alternator? Did it come like that? Pretty sharp. Is condenser a multi-pass tube type? and, how many passes? I think original only 8 - so would work well with original 'defunct' Freon but not so good with R-134a. I have the pressure hoses but a bit stiff so will consider having replacements custom made - pipes and fittings important for sure. Your (M.P.) orange module complements the air cleaner nicely. I still have the (circa:1973) -900 (5-pin) unit. Yet to have a factory box fail on me, and I've had plenty. Oh, and it's a bit hard to see but what is small device to right of OSAC valve?

 

[moparleo]

You will likely need to have everything replaced/reconditioned. A/C systems always have and still do rely on at least occasional use to circulate the oil/lubricants throughout he system to keep the seals, bearings etc in good condition. Think about a car that did not move for 40 years and what happens when you start it up and try to drive it. The bearings are dry, the seals have hardened, the gaskets are cracked and so on. The hoses are a given to be remade. Any good a/c shop can help you there. Are you trying to restore the system to original look and function ? Since the manufacture of R-12 was banned in the US decades ago, Very little is available and usually very expensive when you do find it. R-134 conversions are not very efficient as you are using a older design to tey to perform like a modern system. Even when new, the old systems were pretty poor in the flow dept. Best to up grade to a modern Sanden style compressor. Smaller, lighter weight and readily available as are the conversion mounts since they are very popular with the older cars. Using modern components ( drier, evaporator, condensor, orfice tube ...)allows easy servicing when needed, anywhere that does a/c servicing. Modern blower motor assemblies flow much more air than the originals etc...
If you are planning on a new oenr in the next year, you might want to give the new car owner the option of what type of system they want. Pity to spend money on a system that might not be wanted.

 

[Rich G.]

I wanted it to look like a factory Ac car so I wanted it to look original. I am putting R134 in so I removed the EPR valve in the compressor and the thing on the firewall is a cycling switch for the compressor. Classic Air rebuilt the hoses . ( that’s a rebuilt alt and the pulley should be black ) If you need more pictures let me know

 

[Oystercopy]

Unless you absolutely HAD TO have that original look in your A/C system, everything about trying to use a vintage system is moot. I looked into all of this a few months ago with Vintage Air. Had long discussions with their tech support and trying to use an R12 system today, even with the upgraded freon, was ill-advised. Everything about the newer systems is simply better. They've got servo controls (virtually trouble-free) in the blower box, the R143A is a better, more stable refrigerant, and last but not least, the compressors provide little to no drag on your motor, upping the H/P and preventing the drag when you engage the compressor. If I had bought a car with factory A/C and it was still working, GREAT.. but that's only buying you a little time. Once it fails (and it certainly will), upgrading to the newer systems is just a no-brainer.

 

[michael bucklew]

This is a '73 (340) Challenger with system 'moth-balled' (indoors) around 1980. Everything under the hood was removed - except for special water valve. The two evaporator fittings at firewall were sealed off and, as far as I can tell, the ducting and vacuum controls undisturbed. Car was never winter driven and still original blower and heater core. Nothing has needed replacing. Car will find a new home likely within a year from now so I feel it makes some sense to at least restore the A/C setup to as close to original as possible.
I need a link to diagrams and photos to establish the orientation of he under-hood components. The (inefficient) original Condenser has a lot of flattened fins as it was left installed for several more years. If I was to replace it, what would be a good choice? I noticed listings for between about $250. and $450. Any good ideas? What other components would need replacing - such as receiver/dryer, low-press switch - - - ? I have a couple of those special alternator brackets but haven't figured it out yet. Being a twin-pulley system, alternator will need to fit as well. Anyone know what 'black' the compressor and brackets should be? - - gloss or s.g? Thanks for your time.

most components can be had at a NAPA store--compressor-dryer and low pressure switch, one of the a/c hoses was found on e-bay. others can be rebuilt at Vintage Auto Air in Florida. as installed, hoses will fall into proper routing. some of the a/c, alt and power steering pump bolts also go to the water pump. painter my brackets gloss black[rustoliem]

 

[volunteer]

Too many other priorities these days. Concentrating on '69 Signet as my (newly turned 16) daughter now into driver-training. (Don't laugh - - I cut my teeth decades ago in '65 Monaco, and passed road-test first time, in spite of 6 inches fresh snow overnight and open-style rear and failed P.W. motor which meant open window thru entire test).
Not concerned now with installing anything under hood. In the first place, as mentioned already, I have no intention of restoring the a/c system for any future owner. I only wish to include any and all OEM parts, as used between spring of '73 and fall of '75 - - then removed and stored. I will just deduct a fair value (ie: $1000.) from suggested list price and let new owner do what he or she wishes. Same logic would be if car had aftermarket headers and I chose to leave them on and include factory manifolds, etc.
Also, the condenser is missing anyway and a new replacement would be pricey but a lot more efficient than factory unit.
I am well aware of the pros and cons of all available (legal) refrigerants but apparently many other motorists still are not. Let's just say that the one most widely used today (and since about 1992) is not and never will be my choice. I made the mistake of retro-fitting my RX7 twenty years ago and it almost ruined my system, but I was aware of this early enough to save the main infrastructure. That's all I will say.
So, what I thought was a condenser, after seeing it in a better light, looks more like a tranny cooler. It only has eight passes and the (incorrect) fittings on same side.
So, having said this, I am now concentrating on detailing front brakes, steering and suspension. Having bit of trouble locating caliper pins as no listing on all my on-line sources, even R.A., so will try ebay. Thanks to all who responded.

 

[michael bucklew]

This is a '73 (340) Challenger with system 'moth-balled' (indoors) around 1980. Everything under the hood was removed - except for special water valve. The two evaporator fittings at firewall were sealed off and, as far as I can tell, the ducting and vacuum controls undisturbed. Car was never winter driven and still original blower and heater core. Nothing has needed replacing. Car will find a new home likely within a year from now so I feel it makes some sense to at least restore the A/C setup to as close to original as possible.
I need a link to diagrams and photos to establish the orientation of he under-hood components. The (inefficient) original Condenser has a lot of flattened fins as it was left installed for several more years. If I was to replace it, what would be a good choice? I noticed listings for between about $250. and $450. Any good ideas? What other components would need replacing - such as receiver/dryer, low-press switch - - - ? I have a couple of those special alternator brackets but haven't figured it out yet. Being a twin-pulley system, alternator will need to fit as well. Anyone know what 'black' the compressor and brackets should be? - - gloss or s.g? Thanks for your time.

most all components can be bought at a NAPA store just did mine==compresser==big black one== dryer--pressure switch.. expansion valve. the condenser fins can be straightened with a "fin comb" from a/c store. my condenser was plugged and taped and hung on a wall for over25 years. have friend in car a/c business--filled condenser with acetone drained and blew out with air, pressures tested and good to go. but i did replace evap and heater cores....all your hoses--still have?---can be rebuilt by Vintage Auto AIR in Tampa FL.. i painted brackets gloss rustoleum black....hoses will fall into place during install, just need some clamps

 

[Raycuda]

I just got my car back today, after having a Classic Auto Air system installed. I went with what they call their Stage II upgrade kit which includes the following:
Why Upgrade Your Engine Compartment?
Modern systems are more efficient. Classic Auto Air’s high performance Engine Compartment Upgrade kit takes the Compressor Upgrade Kit to the next level by upgrading the condenser and all of the hoses as well.

• Converting to 134a? You get everything you need to convert to 134a except the refrigerant itself.
• Modernize the appearance of your engine compartment. The smaller & cleaner look of the Sanden-style compressor combined with Classic Auto Air’s Perfect Fit series condenser and pre-formed tubes are designed specifically to fit your stock application. Not only does it fit properly, but it looks good too!
• Save Horsepower. The Sanden-style compressor draws significantly less horsepower than a stock Mopar compressor. As little as 2-5 horsepower, compared to 10-15!
• Save Weight. The Sanden-style compressor is significantly lighter than a stock Mopar compressor.
• Increase Fuel Economy. Less horsepower draw means better gas mileage.
• Running Engine at high RPM? The Sanden-style compressor can handle 6000 continuous RPM! Stock compressors can handle much less. Build up your engine and rev it up to leave someone in the dust and your stock compressor could lock up.

What Is An Engine Compartment Upgrade Kit?
An engine compartment upgrade kit uses an efficient, modern Perfect Fit™ condenser & rotary compressor to connect to your car’s original factory a/c evaporator unit in the engine compartment.

What Do I Get With This Kit?

• Sanden-style compressor assembly w/2-groove Pulley
• Our high-performance Perfect Fit™ condenser
• Mount brackets
• Idler Pulleys
• All hoses & lines
• Thermostat
• Expansion valve
• O-Rings & Oil Tube
• Hardware
• Refrigerant tape
• Filter-drier

I am very happy with the clean look of the install, as well as the performance of the components. It's only the first day of the new system, but I live in Florida, and it was 95 today.

 

[michael bucklew]

This is a '73 (340) Challenger with system 'moth-balled' (indoors) around 1980. Everything under the hood was removed - except for special water valve. The two evaporator fittings at firewall were sealed off and, as far as I can tell, the ducting and vacuum controls undisturbed. Car was never winter driven and still original blower and heater core. Nothing has needed replacing. Car will find a new home likely within a year from now so I feel it makes some sense to at least restore the A/C setup to as close to original as possible.
I need a link to diagrams and photos to establish the orientation of he under-hood components. The (inefficient) original Condenser has a lot of flattened fins as it was left installed for several more years. If I was to replace it, what would be a good choice? I noticed listings for between about $250. and $450. Any good ideas? What other components would need replacing - such as receiver/dryer, low-press switch - - - ? I have a couple of those special alternator brackets but haven't figured it out yet. Being a twin-pulley system, alternator will need to fit as well. Anyone know what 'black' the compressor and brackets should be? - - gloss or s.g? Thanks for your time.

compressor, dryer, low pressure switch, expansion valve are all NAPA parts did mine under similar circumstances. my condenser was plugged and hung on wall.. flushed it out with acetone.. i did replace the condenser and heater core to be "safe". hoses were kept and sent to Vintage Auto Air in Tampa..factory new when returned. all parts were painted when bought.. hoses when bolted on "fell" into place...if condenser has flattened fins--go to a/c supply store and get a --fin comb--will need tim bully alt. comp bracket also bolts to water pump and another arm to intake manifold--Chilton Maue-uel may be useful---

 

[azmoparboy]

I have one of each system. My 1971 Challenger has a new style under the hood with old ac/heater box inside. My 1973 Charger has the complete old system. For me, I really like antiquated engineering. I looked and found all new parts to rebuild the compressor. Everything that could fail I replaced. I purchased a whole case, 12 each, 12oz cans of R12 off of eBay. I wanted this system to all be original and I made it happen. Remember, where there is a will, there is away. Do what you want, it’s you car.

 

[Raycuda]

I just had the entire system on my 1970 340 cuda with factory air replaced with a Custom Auto Air system . The system blows ice cold now. Couldn't be happier.