Front Suspension/K-Member/Frame Damage

[Kuruton]

Hello again!

I've recently been working through an issue where my drivers side wheel had a lot of negative camber. I ended up swapping all the ball joints and Upper Arm, only for it to stay the same. Got it on a lift and realized whats going on. The area where the torsion bar meets with the k-member seems to be broken and the frame itself is separating at a seam. I'm no expert so I'm here for advice. I'm thinking based on the damage, I need to weld up the hole and split in the frame, and replace/repair the k-member? I'm thinking of just swapping it for a qa1 but would like some input. Ive attached pictures to hopefully add some insight.

Basically if you get a crowbar between the lower arm and the frame, you can pull that crack apart and flex the entire k member. the lower arm is hitting the frame and is sticking out about 2cm more on the drivers side than the passengers because the damage.

 

[Finoke]

You need to drop the k-frame then cut out the rotted frame rail and section in new frame rail.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I agree the K frame is not right & needs repair or replacement , QA1 is a good option

 

[Xcudame]

Get a 2x4 and cut it so it sets between the engine bay frame rails (i.e. not on top of the fenders). You can support the engine to the 2x4 with rope, chain, or cable. Disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box. Use wire or metal coat hangers to hold up the upper control arms to the fenders. Unbolt the lower ball joints and K-frame, steering box, center link and tie rods can be dropped out with the torsion bars. Might be better to remove the torsion bars first. Now you have excess to everything (K-frame and frame rails that needs repaired.

I'm giving the above detail because I remember you're stationed over there in Japan and may not have access to a lot of the things we take for granted here in our garages and shops with engine hoists, jack stands, floor jacks, vehicle lifts, etc. Definitely need to fix the probably because it's not safe to drive your car too much longer like is!

 

[Kuruton]

Thanks guys!

Get a 2x4 and cut it so it sets between the engine bay frame rails (i.e. not on top of the fenders). You can support the engine to the 2x4 with rope, chain, or cable. Disconnect the steering shaft from the steering box. Use wire or metal coat hangers to hold up the upper control arms to the fenders. Unbolt the lower ball joints and K-frame, steering box, center link and tie rods can be dropped out with the torsion bars. Might be better to remove the torsion bars first. Now you have excess to everything (K-frame and frame rails that needs repaired.

I'm giving the above detail because I remember you're stationed over there in Japan and may not have access to a lot of the things we take for granted here in our garages and shops with engine hoists, jack stands, floor jacks, vehicle lifts, etc. Definitely need to fix the probably because it's not safe to drive your car too much longer like is!

Luckily I am able to use the auto shop on base now but the only problem is I'm paying 7 bucks an hour to keep it in the bay. I'm trying to get everything I'll need together now so I can try to knock it out in a weekend. So far, I ordered the qa1 k member, new engine mounts and, just for shits and gigs I ordered new lower arms (don't wanna chance getting it apart only to realize somethings wrong there and be stuck)..

Do you guys have any other recommendations for things to buy or look out for? I know I got in a bit of a bind when I was working on replacing ball joints and found out I needed a special socket for the upper arm.


Also how many and what engine mount would you use for a 440 on that k member?

Thanks!

 

[Xcudame]

Glad to hear you have a shop to work on your car, but $7 an hour sucks. Everything you're doing now would just require tools at the base shop. No more special sockets. I'm assuming they have tie rod and pitman arm pullers for base vehicles, otherwise you'll need those.

I'm not too familiar with the QA1 k-member, but I'm sure they have mounts made for a 440. All e-bodies engines mount the same to the OEM k-member. It's how they attach to the block ears (or pads on Hemi) that are different. And you would need a left and a right.

Best of luck!

 

[Challenger RTA]

OK. XCUDAME I don't want to beat this into a adopted child. Where do you get a wire coat hanger now these days. For decades used it in construction. It is a strong substitute for duck tape. Tie wire can be bought at Lowes or other stores.

 

[Challenger RTA]

It looks as if it was welded before. The nut will brake loose before the bolt will come out. Just cut the nut area out and go from there. Save the nut and bolt if need be.
That's what it looks like to me.

 

[Kuruton]

It looks as if it was welded before. The nut will brake loose before the bolt will come out. Just cut the nut area out and go from there. Save the nut and bolt if need be.
That's what it looks like to me.

What bolt and nut are you referring to? I'm replacing the entire k member and lower arms, do I need to worry about that still?

 

[Challenger RTA]

The K frame bolt and nut that is welded in the frame.

 

[Xcudame]

Challenger RTA, I've got like four untwisted wire coat hangers in my barn and two more that are trusted. Actually, you can get white plastic coated wire hangers at Walmart.

Kuruton, from the photos you attached it looks like you have k-member and frame rail damage. The nut welded inside the frame rail that the k-member bolts to, may be fubar.

 

[Kuruton]

I'll make sure to stock up on wire hangers haha. I've got some steel sheet, k member, lower arms and engine mounts coming. Got a MIG I can use at the shop and a lift. Hopefully once everything arrives I can set aside a weekend and try to knock it out without too many snags. Only thing I'm worried about is getting it apart and realizing I've gotta order something from the states and wait a week or 2, since I'm paying by the hour for shop time. Would then have to figure a way to get it into the parking lot while I wait on parts.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Thanks guys!



Luckily I am able to use the auto shop on base now but the only problem is I'm paying 7 bucks an hour to keep it in the bay. I'm trying to get everything I'll need together now so I can try to knock it out in a weekend. So far, I ordered the qa1 k member, new engine mounts and, just for shits and gigs I ordered new lower arms (don't wanna chance getting it apart only to realize somethings wrong there and be stuck)..

Do you guys have any other recommendations for things to buy or look out for? I know I got in a bit of a bind when I was working on replacing ball joints and found out I needed a special socket for the upper arm.


Also how many and what engine mount would you use for a 440 on that k member?

Thanks!

Man, when I was active duty I LIVED at the auto hobby shop! Looks like the prices have gone up too! Not sure if they still are but when I was at Clark AB / Philippines the Auto Hobby Shop was part of MWR.