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Frustrating Brake bleed

kellydw

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I have a persistant problem with bleeding the brakes on my 1973 Cuda. Have installed new M/C , booster and also a new proportioning valve.The M/C was bench bleed before installation. I keep getting air bubbles from the bleeders which will not stop. I have checked every fitting in both front and rear brake loops for leaks and all seem tight and are not leaking. Am bleeding in the correct order starting from the rear right but cannot get the air bubbles to stop and the brake peddle keeps going close to the floor . Have been trying to solve this issue for some time with no luck. Any one have an idea what the problem could be ??????
 

Katfish

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Had similar issue, my problem was air was getting in around the threads when the bleeders were cracked open. Read a tip to add sealant to the threads and it helped.
 

kellydw

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Had similar issue, my problem was air was getting in around the threads when the bleeders were cracked open. Read a tip to add sealant to the threads and it hel
Had similar issue, my problem was air was getting in around the threads when the bleeders were cracked open. Read a tip to add sealant to the threads and it helped.
Hi there - wondering what kind of sealant was used
 

Challenger RTA

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What you said above I did except the booster. It ended up being the rear wheel cylinder.
Rear wheel seal might not be sealing. Bad seal, Rust or debris.
 
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62Dodge_

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Howdy On my 65 Coronet the previous owner gave up and sold me the car with no brakes it took me and a buddy over three hours to finally get the air out, with him pushing the peddle and me working the bleeders. What I do now is open all bleeders and go eat lunch and let gravity do its job on my 70 Charger it took around 6 hours making sure that the master cylinder was kept full. My Charger was a completely new system disk up front, drums out back with bleeder ports on top.
 
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TJP440

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1. once the mater is installed, crack both F+R output lines preferrably at the porp valve. It is critical to close the line before the pedal bottoms as it is still pushing air out. This will get fluid in the lines so you don't pull air back in
SLOWLY pump the pedal, to fast can aerate the fluid
2. I have always closed the bleeders before the pedal bottoms or while fluid is still moving.
3. Start at the cylinder farthest from the master and finish with the one closest.
I usually repeat 2 or 3 times depending on pedal feel.|
one can make or buy a cheap pressure bleed but they have to keep the Pressure low and monitor the fluid level closely.
 

kellydw

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Howdy On my 65 Coronet the previous owner gave up and sold me the car with no brakes it took me and a buddy over three hours to finally get the air out, with him pushing the peddle and me working the bleaders. What I do now is open all bleaders and go eat lunch and let gravity do its job on my 70 Charger it took around 6 hours making sure that the master cylinder was kept full. My Charger was a completely new system disk up front, drums out back with bleader ports on top.
Thanks I will try this method as I am getting very frustrated with the whole issue
 

pschlosser

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to confirm the bleeding procedure, yes, it's customary to use the "longest distance rule" and start at the longest brake line (the brake furthest from the master cylinder) and work your way back to the shortest (closest) brake. you can always do these out of order, for diagnostic purposes, but if doing them out of order, once they are bled, i recommend you repeat the procedure again, following the longest distance rule.

one reason to do these out of order, is to troubleshoot the source if air, to isolate where the source of air is coming from. does the leak originate at the M/C or is the air entering further down the line? for example, if you bled the other rear brake, or front brakes first, and you're able to get them clean with no bubbles, then you can be more confident the source of the air is further away from the master cylinder. and if there is still one brake that won't bleed clean, then you can look at sources (of air) closer to that brake, such as the bleed screw or brake cylinder.

the method of bleeding can affect results, too. I have found that "gravity bleeding" which can take hours, and does not usually involve anyone actually pressing on the brake pedal much, if at all, may not affectively eliminate trapped air within the system.

if the underside of the car is dry (not oily) and when applying pressure to the brake pedal, and hydraulic system, if there are no visible leaks of brake fluid, then it is likely there is NOT an air leak mid-way in the brake line system. The air leaks may be at the bleeder, as others suggest, or up top, if the M/C reservoir goes dry, during bleeding, and sucks in more air.

Another tip for a "leaky bleeder when open" is to only open the bleeder while the brake pedal is being pushed, and the system under some hydraulic pressure. Open the bleeder just enough to allow fluid to pass, but not wide open (by several turns) allowing air to sneak past the loose threads. Once the brake pedal is at the floor, BEFORE releasing it, tighten that bleeder back up. This method typically requires two people.

And of course, we all presume you are not allowing the M/C reservoir to run dry during bleeding, and you're using some type of brake bleeding kit with an bleeder tube and bottle preventing air from flowing backward when the brake pedal is released.
 
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kellydw

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1. once the mater is installed, crack both F+R output lines preferrably at the porp valve. It is critical to close the line before the pedal bottoms as it is still pushing air out. This will get fluid in the lines so you don't pull air back in
SLOWLY pump the pedal, to fast can aerate the fluid
2. I have always closed the bleeders before the pedal bottoms or while fluid is still moving.
3. Start at the cylinder farthest from the master and finish with the one closest.
I usually repeat 2 or 3 times depending on pedal feel.|
one can make or buy a cheap pressure bleed but they have to keep the Pressure low and monitor the fluid level closely.
How long does it take for the peddle to bottom out? Probably would be a scramble to close the lines before the peddle bottoms out. My prop valve is a hard to access in a hurry.
 

pschlosser

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How long does it take for the peddle to bottom out?

Bleeding the brakes with a helper is the way to go. More so, if you're having bleeding problems. When the helper is pressing the brake pedal, and then the bleeder valve is cracked open, how long does it take for the pedal to go to the floor? 2-3 seconds. Close the valve before releasing the pedal.
 

kellydw

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Bleeding the brakes with a helper is the way to go. More so, if you're having bleeding problems. When the helper is pressing the brake pedal, and then the bleeder valve is cracked open, how long does it take for the pedal to go to the floor? 2-3 seconds. Close the valve before releasing the pedal.
Yeh - I can see that one would need a helper as there is no way I could get those lines closed in two or three seconds. Thanks for your help -greatly appreciated
 

Spyder

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I put a bunch of wheelbearing grease around the base of the bleeder if I'm having trouble with air getting in. Seals it up and you get a good bleed.

I also always put in Russell speed bleeders on all four corners of everything I own.
 

TJP440

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How long does it take for the peddle to bottom out? Probably would be a scramble to close the lines before the peddle bottoms out. My prop valve is a hard to access in a hurry.
Not long and depends on how far you open the fitting /bleeder. The key is to push fluid out while there is still pressure to prevent air from getting back in. This is at the master and individual cylinders.
 
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