booyaballer
Well-Known Member
Hi, would there be any issues connecting multiple grounds to the same location?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited:
grounds
- Thread starter booyaballer
- Start date
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
not really, unless it is a bunch of them adding potential surfaces that may oxidize in time. Ground is ground.
If you're adding grounds to auxiliary equipment, I recommend crimping the wired into an eyelet, then fastening that with the grounding crew or bolt. Do this, instead of twisted the copper wire around the shaft of said screw.
But if you had like 10 wires on one ground, I would combine some of those wires into a smaller number of eyelets. The factory did this. I have not seen more than 3 wires per ground, though.
If you're adding grounds to auxiliary equipment, I recommend crimping the wired into an eyelet, then fastening that with the grounding crew or bolt. Do this, instead of twisted the copper wire around the shaft of said screw.
But if you had like 10 wires on one ground, I would combine some of those wires into a smaller number of eyelets. The factory did this. I have not seen more than 3 wires per ground, though.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
There should be one engine ground to accomadate the starter and the alternator charging. It wouldn't hurt to have one on the back of the motor to the connecting points of the voltage regulator and ignition control module. I used a stainless steel woven strap. More forgiving of movement.
Then there is the chassis ground from battery to radiator support. If you have other components other then stock. Drawing 100 amps. That's just a number. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade to say an 8 or even 6 gauge. All the ground load goes through it in a stock configuration. If you have other add on accessories. A jumper to gound would be adequate. Other than that it's a wasted effort. They have to be in the right place.
Take note. In most cases the motor transmission and rear are isolated from ground. There is no high ground carry capacity.
There can be a compent that might carry a low current load. Such as the reverse light or other. Or some other fault.
Then there is the chassis ground from battery to radiator support. If you have other components other then stock. Drawing 100 amps. That's just a number. It wouldn't hurt to upgrade to say an 8 or even 6 gauge. All the ground load goes through it in a stock configuration. If you have other add on accessories. A jumper to gound would be adequate. Other than that it's a wasted effort. They have to be in the right place.
Take note. In most cases the motor transmission and rear are isolated from ground. There is no high ground carry capacity.
There can be a compent that might carry a low current load. Such as the reverse light or other. Or some other fault.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
This is why it is said to.: Stay in the car if there are power lines down.
Same for heavy equipment. Seen it happen. Had to warn the operator. Don't touch nothing and don't jump out. . I had to go turn power off.
Last edited:
pschlosser
Well-Known Member
Wow, is this true? the engine is (chassis) grounded, the 727 bell housing bolts to the engine, the drive shaft is all metal, and it conducts to the differential and rear axle. Of course, the rubber tires do indeed isolate the chassis ground from the earth ground.
I'm skeptical the rear axle is isolated from chassis ground. It defies logic and makes my brain hurt (only a little) This is a new one on me.
Similar threads
