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Heater Core Block Off

terrywalker

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As I mentioned in another post about heater core replacement, I had to replace the heater core in my 71 convertible. This car is all stock. I never take this car out in cold and/or wet weather. The heater core could leak again sometime in the future. Has anyone blocked off the heater core and still kept the stock look in the heater hose hookup? A friend suggested getting a copper plug/cap and shoving it into the ends of both heater hoses at the core end and the putting the hoses back on the heater core end with clamps. It would look stock but block off the core. The plugs could be removed anytime I wanted to hook the core back up. Any suggestions? It will probably never need another core in my lifetime but...
Terry W.
 

MOPARMITCH

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As I mentioned in another post about heater core replacement, I had to replace the heater core in my 71 convertible. This car is all stock. I never take this car out in cold and/or wet weather. The heater core could leak again sometime in the future. Has anyone blocked off the heater core and still kept the stock look in the heater hose hookup? A friend suggested getting a copper plug/cap and shoving it into the ends of both heater hoses at the core end and the putting the hoses back on the heater core end with clamps. It would look stock but block off the core. The plugs could be removed anytime I wanted to hook the core back up. Any suggestions? It will probably never need another core in my lifetime but...
Terry W.
That sounds reasonable to me... Good Idea..... :thumbsup:
 

Challenger RTA

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suggestions
I would say that would. Just my thoughts. Hydric hammering. Would it hammer on the plug and line. With air in the line that might happen.? Bleed air out. I would also place the pug just far enough so the heater core line would back it up, then clamp hose on. Meaning two clamps on each hose.
The other thing to do is clear the heater core so it doesn't corrode.
 

Jeff K

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As I mentioned in another post about heater core replacement, I had to replace the heater core in my 71 convertible. This car is all stock. I never take this car out in cold and/or wet weather. The heater core could leak again sometime in the future. Has anyone blocked off the heater core and still kept the stock look in the heater hose hookup? A friend suggested getting a copper plug/cap and shoving it into the ends of both heater hoses at the core end and the putting the hoses back on the heater core end with clamps. It would look stock but block off the core. The plugs could be removed anytime I wanted to hook the core back up. Any suggestions? It will probably never need another core in my lifetime but...
Terry W.
My '71 convertible was set up similar when I bought it. It had a solid plug inside the heater supply hose where it attached to the heater control valve. There were two clamps on the heater hose right next to each other, one of them clamped the hose to the control valve like you would expect, the second clamp right next to it went around the hose and clamped down on the steel plug. The car ran that way without any issues for a couple years until I replaced all the belts and hoses and discovered the mystery plug. Like you, I never use the heat. I'm not sure if the previous owner did this as a temporary, summertime thing, or if the heater core had leaked at some point. I suspect the latter.

It was essentially set up like the picture below (if you replace the socket with a solid piece of metal.)

1752875591756.png


The only obvious visible clue was the use of two hose clamps instead of one. You could do the same thing at the heater core or at the other end of the supply hose where it leaves the engine. I would use brass or stainless steel if you can.

FYI, I took the heater hoses and control valve off and just ran a bypass hose underneath the shaker baseplate. One of these years I may swap out the heater core and hook it all back up.



I've also seen cars with a small ball valve installed in the heater hose close to the engine, folks will open/close the valve as the seasons change.
 

Xcudame

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I think I would plug the pipe fittings that go into the water pump housing. The walls are thick enough to put the next size pipe plug or if you're a welder, weld a plug in there! And then change them out if you wanted the heater. That would reduce the risk of damaging the valve and heater core tubes, plus solve the hydraulic hammering @Challenger RTA is talking about.
 
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