How much can I get out of a 318.

[Ohiowoodchuck]

I bought a duster drag car from a gentlemen for next to nothing. I believe it had a 440 at one time. Anyway now it has a 318 with a 727. How much hp can I come up with. I saw somewhere close to 600 with a striker kit etc. don’t have a problem doing it. I’ve never drag raced but I’d like to get into it. I use to pull dodge trucks with a Cummins and I miss it but I don’t have the funds anymore to participate. I’d like to be around a 10 sec car. Maybe I’m dreaming. I’d just like to have a nice hobby where I didn’t have to drop 10k every winter just to try to keep up. You can’t hate on me that’s fine. Never raced before, just want to try something different.

 

[Xcudame]

OK, I'll be the first to answer. Stroking a 318, while it can be done, is kind of a waste. The 360 first and 340 second make much more sense. That said, with higher compression pistons and 340/360 or "302" cylinder heads, the stock stroke 318 can be pretty beefy! Chrysler blessed the small block with a valve geometry that opens on center which means big valves (2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust) work just fine on the 318. In fact, built right, it would be hard to tell a 318 from a 340.

However, the smaller bore of the 318 when stroked causes the engine to be under squared (bore diameter less than stroke). This is OK for low end torque, but horsepower will suffer at higher rpms compared to the 340/360.

Finally, it's your money and your car. Yes, a 318 could be stroked and make 600hp, but trust me, it's a lot easier and cost effective to build a 360 to get into the 10s. And unless you spill the beans, no one would know you're not running a 318 instead of a 408" 360.

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

I have a 360 out of a dart. I could use. I have one 340 block yet but I’d really prefer to keep it for my cuda’s just in case. The duster already has a Dana 60 under it, has a roll cage etc. I’m going to admit I know nothing setting a car up for drag racing. or what class I would be in. The interior has been stripped it does have a fiberglass dash one racing seat and a 5 point harness. Would I need to find an interior to put back in it or ???? I just hate to spend a bunch of money redoing a car that wouldn’t be worth much of anything. I just don’t want to relive the truck pulling days of working all week to eat bologna sandwiches while the paycheck goes into the truck. No one is going to hurt my feelings. I’m not pretending like I know everything here. I got two sets of w2 heads left. One is for a 59 degree block and the other is for a 48 degree block but I have seen where guys have put the r3 style racing heads on a stock ish degree block.

 

[HPP]

Bracket drag racing, which is what you would be doing, is all about consistency, not highest speed or lowest e.t. Take what you got to the track, and run it. Don't care with how fast or worry about how much. Just run it. If you enjoy, then you can decide if you want to step up the funding to go faster.

In bracket racing, you might want to run in street or pro e.t. These are kind of basic classes with only minimal requirements that can be found at nearly any track, but decidedly a run what you brung deal.

If you start chasing down a 10 second car, the cost is going to rise exponentially, the safety costs will go up because you will be getting into a host of SFI certified equipment with expiration dates and required replacement. With a basic bracket car, the only replacement piece of equipment you will need is a helmet.

 

[Xcudame]

@HPP is right for bracket racing! I saw a slant six Valiant running a consistent 17.6 second quarter put everything on the trailer back in the late 1980s. And I saw a 1967 barracuda with a 440 and lousy paint job put $40,000+ cars on the trailer. Bracket racing is all about consistency.

The 360 makes more sense to build up with lots of money.

Remember this quote which is so true. To make a small fortune in racing, you need to start with a large fortune!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

360 are cheap easy to stroke to 408 , W2 heads make a lot of power , you have the heads so that is what I would do ,
SS springs & double adjustable shocks should hook it up . Make sure everything is reinforced & Square in the rear suspension , mine had ladderbars , would carry the front tires almost 60 ' & went perfectly straight , & settled very softly . Never scary even on the street .
It depends on if you want to run it on the street as I did or trailer it , I had wipers , heater , carpet & stock seats in mine with tubs & a roll cage
no interior nessisary when using on the track only .

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

I thought most classes require full interior etc. car has fiberglass fenders, hood, trunk etc. it is gutted. Plexi glass front and back.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Bracket racing is run what you brung . Interior doesn't matter .
Stock or SS class have different rules

 

[HPP]

Weekly drag racing programs have a range of classes and requirements that are pretty broad and forgiving. If you are thinking of participating in national event caliber programs, that’s an entirely different part of the sport and will put you back on a baloney sandwich diet.

Let’s try this, are you aware of what bracket racing is?

In it simplest form, it is you betting what number your car will run. You line up against another car who is betting they know their set up better than you and will run closer to their estimate than you. Doesn’t matter if your e.t. Is ten seconds or 1 minute. Both cars will leave at an interval that is attempting to put them both at the finish line at the same time. Therein lies the trick- who leaves on the green quicker, without being too quick and who runs closer to the estimate without going too fast. The race is all on the start and finish lines. All the space in between is fluff.

Definitely suggest you visit the closest strip when the season opens.

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

Yes I understand what bracket racing is. Just wasn’t sure if a stripped out interior was allowed. That was kind of my question. I appreciate you gentlemen for answering it. The local track doesn’t bracket race anymore. They just have the midnight madness arm drop still racing. My next closest track would be kil Kare.

 

[heminut]

Used to be a sign on the wall of a local speed shop back in the day that said

"Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go?"

Nothing has changed over the years!

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

Used to be a sign on the wall of a local speed shop back in the day that said

"Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go?"

Nothing has changed over the years!

They should change it to if you have to ask then you can’t afford it. Lol.

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

Bracket racing is run what you brung . Interior doesn't matter .
Stock or SS class have different rules

Thanks for clarifying that. If I had to buy all the needed interior pieces I would just scrap it and go find another car.

 

[HPP]

Interior of the Aspen I used to bracket race for a lot of years. You can run it as long as it passes tech.

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

Here is a pic of the gem I bought for a song. Disregard the feed sack and the front fiberglass bumper laying on the inside.

 

[Ohiowoodchuck]

360 are cheap easy to stroke to 408 , W2 heads make a lot of power , you have the heads so that is what I would do ,
SS springs & double adjustable shocks should hook it up . Make sure everything is reinforced & Square in the rear suspension , mine had ladderbars , would carry the front tires almost 60 ' & went perfectly straight , & settled very softly . Never scary even on the street .
It depends on if you want to run it on the street as I did or trailer it , I had wipers , heater , carpet & stock seats in mine with tubs & a roll cage
no interior nessisary when using on the track only .

Would a stroked 360 be more desirable than a 340 for all out racing. I would have to trailer it. I have no desire for wipers lights etc if I could run it as is.