How to identify a stdard dash harness from a Rallye?

[migsBIG]

So I was buying some 1970 seats and guy said I could have a dash harness he had a spare of. Had a hand written tag on it saying it was a non-ac Rallye dash harness for 1974 Cuda model. I plan on putting a 1972 Rallye dash gauges in my car I was gifted from my good friend WO. Is there a way to verify it is a rally harness or std? This tag was attached to the harness.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The lay out of the connetions amp,oil, temp and fuel will be grouped togeter for a ralley cluster.

 

[larry4406]

Presence /absence of a tach wire?

 

[Xcudame]

Real easy, three dash light bulb sockets for a standard harness and four for a rally harness. Orange wires. Can't miss it.

 

[Katfish]

Light harness is separate, independent of main harness.

 

[migsBIG]

thanks, will take a look at those connections. will post pics later.

 

[Katfish]

Easiest way would probably be the oil gauge connection.
Standard is idiot light (bulb)
Ralley will be the push on barrel connector (gauge)

 

[Vaanth]

So I was buying some 1970 seats and guy said I could have a dash harness he had a spare of. Had a hand written tag on it saying it was a non-ac Rallye dash harness for 1974 Cuda model. I plan on putting a 1972 Rallye dash gauges in my car I was gifted from my good friend WO. Is there a way to verify it is a rally harness or std? This tag was attached to the harness.

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The instrument cluster wiring portion branches from the main wrapped harness in the same area for both standard and Rallye clusters. From there, the Rallye cluster wiring is a little more involved. The following two images show a Rallye cluster wiring portion and a standard cluster wiring portion:

Rallye cluster wiring:

Standard cluster wiring:

If the standard cluster has the optional clock, it also has a small, separate, wire connected to the ammeter to power the clock as shown in the following image:

Key wiring differences between the two harness include the following:

• The Rallye wiring has the grey clock wire integrated into the harness. The standard cluster has a separate jumper as shown, if a clock is installed.
• The Rallye wiring has the grey/red and blue tachometer wires. The standard cluster does not have a tachometer.
• The Rallye wiring has the grey wire with a post plug for the oil pressure gauge. The standard wiring has a grey wire with a light socket for the oil warning light.
• The span of the wiring portion is wider with different positioning of terminal or socket ends for the Rallye cluster.

The pictured tag with number "3592 267" is from a 1973 or 1974 car.

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[migsBIG]

I took some pics.

 

[Vaanth]

I took some pics.

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The pictured wiring harness is for a 1974 E-body with a Rallye instrument cluster.

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[migsBIG]

Cool, so this is great. Thank you to everyone that helped out. My friend gave me a 1972/73 Rallye gauge assembly and a new dashpad for my barracuda project. With this harness, I’m part way through collecting parts for my car. Hope to get it started after the paint shop gets time to finish up the imperfections.

 

[Challenger RTA]

The harness thar your going to use. Now is time to inspect it. In my option the OEM harness is ok. Just a few things to check. Was it exposed to the elements. Two good things about OEM. There's less likelyness of shooty workmanship. The other is it's not made of soy. It attracts rodents.

 

[Challenger RTA]

What to check on the harness. The higher current loads. Loose conntions and brittleness at the ends and at bend. 1 check amp gauge wires. The black alternator feed at the amp gauge and bulkhead connector. The red battery feed at the same locations. If there is any indication of melted wire. There could be damage to other wires beside them. Myself I found some and opened up the harness and inspected the rest of them. If you cut one end of the battery feed it shoul pull out. That can't be done with the black alt wire as easy. It is connected to splice one. If you feel comfterble with the condition they can be left in. In any event I would do an alt bypass.
2 For some reason. The brown wire for the ignition at times is melted from excessive cranking, bad connection or it gets shorted out at the coil. 3 Would be the headlight foot dimmer sw plug will be melted. Needs 2 fixes. (1) replace the plug. (2) Headlight relay circuit. 3 The fan sw plug and the plug on the heater box. Fix is a reley circuit. An AC car is a bit different. The above removes about 90% of the problem of the system. Being a used or new harness will have the same problems.

 

[ItsJustMe]

The 74 harness has a few wires swapped around and different from the 70-73. I was never able to find a correct diagram for 74. I am not sure 100% off the top of my head what they were. It did have to do with the bulkhead connection and ignition though. Most likely because the seatbelt interlock. I modified my harness to mirror the earlier style. I have a modified wire diagram in the glove box I can share, that shows the changes needed, if you would like. I think the issues were because I used a 72 engine harness.