ignition switch

[Challenger RTA]

The two explanations below are for the start and run. They are pretty much the same but just a little different. Once you know one you know the other. Just a resistor in the circuit or not. Or the key in the on position for run or holding the key in the start position when testing.

 

[Challenger RTA]

When the key held in the start position (START) you should have battery voltage at the Brown wire at the coil. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex connector. Turn the ign sw on check the BROWN wires on one sides. of the Molex connector. If you don't power the on both side no need to go any further. Back to the ing sw. If it's on one side it's the Molex.

Here again with the ing sw on.
If you have power at the molex move onto the engine compartment connector 22 Brown. If you don't have it there it's in between there and the molex.

If you have power in the engine compartment connector 22 and not at the coil brown wire. It's the connector or the wire to the coil, If there is power at he brown wire at he coil. It might be the coil. Disconnect the The brown wire from the coil to be sure about the coil.

The bulkhead connectors are known to be a problem.

 

[Challenger RTA]

When the key is in the on position (RUN) you should have battery voltage at the blue resistor wire. If not it is the wiring, bulkhead connector or at the molex connector. Turn the ign sw on check the DARK BLUE White trace wires on one sides. If you don't power the on both side of the molex connector, no need to go any further. Back to the ing sw. If it's on one side it's the Molex.

Here again with the ing sw on.
If you have power at the molex move onto the engine compartment connector 23 DBL white tracer. If you don't have it there it's in between there and the molex.

If you have power in the engine compartment connector 23 and not at the resistor connection. It's the connector or the wire.

If you have power at the feed or the resistor and not on the other side ( load side) it's the resistor.

There will be reduced voltage on the other side of the resistor (Load Side), that's what it dose.
The test light might not show it has power because it's lower power and completing the circuit. You might see a very dim light. Unplug the load side of the resistor wire is the best way.

If there is reduced power (9v all depend on the the battery state of charge) to the coil, It might be the coil.

The bulkhead connectors are known to be a problem.

 

[Oystercopy]

Found a loose wire on the ignition switch harness. Looks like it was probably on the "run" line of the circuit, next to the large red wire. Car running. But I didn't find it until after I replaced that switch and the ballast resistors.

THANK YOU to everyone that offered help and advice!
OC

 

[moparleo]

Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual and use it before you disassemble anything in the future.
There are diagrams and instructions for most areas of the car.
This is the same manual that the dealership mechanics would use to repair the cars that were brought in for service.

click here --->MyMopar

 

[Oystercopy]

Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual and use it before you disassemble anything in the future.
There are diagrams and instructions for most areas of the car.
This is the same manual that the dealership mechanics would use to repair the cars that were brought in for service.

click here --->MyMopar

I have and referenced the factory manual (I bought the one I have in the 1980s when I bought my first Challenger) prior to doing anything here. It was very vague and unhelpful, actually. There was a complete lack of proper descriptions of just about anything I've needed to do in the car, and so much has been learned about the vehicles over the last 50 years that was not in the manual. Plus, they changed so many things (and upgraded them, thankfully) after the manual was printed that it makes it kind of obsolete in many ways. I appreciate the suggestion nonetheless.