John h
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2015
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Hi All,
I have a Crate Magnum 360. It's the 300 HP model. I am using Fitech throttle body and it's also controlling my timing. I thought it was running great and I had good cold starts and good throttle response. no pining or run on. The base timing is set at 12* and the handheld agrees with the timing light at Idol and at 1500 RPM. I have an adjustable phasing rotor. The timing curve is whatever their base tune was. I can get the numbers if it becomes an question later, but my current issue is with starting. When the engine would be run to operating temp around 190-200, sometimes I would get kickback when I tried to re-start it. it was not super often but something that would happen only when warm. over the winter here in Wisconsin, I changed out my headers to some Ceramic coated ones and put in a High torque mini starter. After the starter change I would get kickback and very ugly engine buck on every start even if it was a cold start. I read about timing being too advanced will cause this. I marked my #1 post on the cap with the dist body. I rolled the engine around to TDC on #1 (compression stroke confirmed) the mark on the ballancer was exactly at 0 timing mark. I rolled it backward to 12* before. I pulled the cap off and the rotor was pointing past #1 on the way to #8 so it was looking like it was retarded not advanced. I pulled the rotor and made sure the reluctor was centered on the magnet, it was. I put my rotor back on and re-phased rotor to lineup with the #1 post exactly. I never adjusted the dist timing at that point. I started the car cold and it fired right up and no kickback etc. when I warmed up I checked the timing and it matched the light with the handheld computer for Fitech. I checked the warm starts multiple times after and starts up and no kickback. why would it run nicely before if I was technically firing on time but the rotor was way past the post? is the starter rotating the engine so fast now with the high torque that it was trying to fire #8 rather than #1 with the new stater? would I have just had really weak spark when I was turning higher RPM if the rotor was already past the plug post moving to the next cylinder? Would my fuel learning tables have adjusted for less fuel since the spark would have been so weak? How could it have ran so nicely with such weak spark? Please hit me with your opinions. I can't drive the car for proper testing now it's -3 in Wisconsin and we have tons of road salt. It's driving me nuts thinking about this and not being able to test.
Thanks, John
I have a Crate Magnum 360. It's the 300 HP model. I am using Fitech throttle body and it's also controlling my timing. I thought it was running great and I had good cold starts and good throttle response. no pining or run on. The base timing is set at 12* and the handheld agrees with the timing light at Idol and at 1500 RPM. I have an adjustable phasing rotor. The timing curve is whatever their base tune was. I can get the numbers if it becomes an question later, but my current issue is with starting. When the engine would be run to operating temp around 190-200, sometimes I would get kickback when I tried to re-start it. it was not super often but something that would happen only when warm. over the winter here in Wisconsin, I changed out my headers to some Ceramic coated ones and put in a High torque mini starter. After the starter change I would get kickback and very ugly engine buck on every start even if it was a cold start. I read about timing being too advanced will cause this. I marked my #1 post on the cap with the dist body. I rolled the engine around to TDC on #1 (compression stroke confirmed) the mark on the ballancer was exactly at 0 timing mark. I rolled it backward to 12* before. I pulled the cap off and the rotor was pointing past #1 on the way to #8 so it was looking like it was retarded not advanced. I pulled the rotor and made sure the reluctor was centered on the magnet, it was. I put my rotor back on and re-phased rotor to lineup with the #1 post exactly. I never adjusted the dist timing at that point. I started the car cold and it fired right up and no kickback etc. when I warmed up I checked the timing and it matched the light with the handheld computer for Fitech. I checked the warm starts multiple times after and starts up and no kickback. why would it run nicely before if I was technically firing on time but the rotor was way past the post? is the starter rotating the engine so fast now with the high torque that it was trying to fire #8 rather than #1 with the new stater? would I have just had really weak spark when I was turning higher RPM if the rotor was already past the plug post moving to the next cylinder? Would my fuel learning tables have adjusted for less fuel since the spark would have been so weak? How could it have ran so nicely with such weak spark? Please hit me with your opinions. I can't drive the car for proper testing now it's -3 in Wisconsin and we have tons of road salt. It's driving me nuts thinking about this and not being able to test.
Thanks, John