Is Scat Enterprises now a scam?

[TIMINATOR]

Usually I race "Just enough to win the turkey", but I knew I would never see this guy again and just couldn't resist really sticking it to him!
If anyone wants to understand the phrase, I will explain. Otherwise know it's REALLY funny....
TIMINATOR

 

[Xcudame]

@Juan Veldez make sure when you order from Mancini, you call them to place the order and ask the appropriate questions regarding your rotating assembly. If they don't have it in stock, ask for a worst case estimate of them delivering it. They're pretty great. There's a reason they're one of the oldest Mopar (Direct Connection!) distributers out there!

Regarding sleepers, before my son got his 2015 Challenger Scat Pack (second one thanks to the local deputy sheriff destroying it), he drove my 1996 Dodge Neon 2 door with three shades of gray paint ( 47 shades short ) and a 175 horse power 2.0. It surprises a lot of unsuspecting fools! Love the sleeper look!

 

[Juan Veldez]

@Juan Veldez make sure when you order from Mancini, you call them to place the order and ask the appropriate questions regarding your rotating assembly. If they don't have it in stock, ask for a worst case estimate of them delivering it. They're pretty great. There's a reason they're one of the oldest Mopar (Direct Connection!) distributers out there!

Regarding sleepers, before my son got his 2015 Challenger Scat Pack (second one thanks to the local deputy sheriff destroying it), he drove my 1996 Dodge Neon 2 door with three shades of gray paint ( 47 shades short ) and a 175 horse power 2.0. It surprises a lot of unsuspecting fools! Love the sleeper look!

Thanks for the advise. Yes, I will be a little more hands on this time. I may just order all the parts separately and have a local racing shop balance the rotating assembly. Still waiting on Scat to refund my money.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Balance from scat, eagle, and others is weigh 1 rod each end, one piston, rings, and look at their cheat sheet for bearing weight, calculate, and make up the bob weights and spin the crank. Last I heard from Tom Leib that's the way "everyone" does it." Plus or minus around 6 grams.
Rods are advertised as weight matched sets, again, plus or minus 4 grams. Problem is the formula uses1 piston, 1 set of rings, 2 sets of bearings, 2 large ends of rods, 1 small end of a rod, and 4 gms oil for small blocks and 5 or 6 for big blocks.
"Weight matched" rods are TOTAL rod weight, not 4 grams for small and 4 grams for big end. I regularly see rod sets that the big end varies by 8 or 10 gas, and small ends by as much as 8 or 10 also. Add that to + or minus 4 grams, and you can see that bobweights can be off by more than 12 grams.
Reputable shops balance all small and big ends separately, weigh and balance all pistons, and use actual bearing weights.
I haven't seen anybodys aftermarket "factory balance" within 12 grams (rebalanced by a reputable race shop)in years! Mallory "heavy metal" balance is a bargain from crank companies, as installing Mallory is labor intensive. Buy the kit "balanced" and take it to a real machineshop for touch up. LS stroker motors generally need Mallory, as do big strokes.
How to tell a good balance is by usually 1 rod of a set has no grind marks and the others do. Same with pistons. The heaviest rod small end is usually not the same rod as the heaviest big end. That's the real problem.
Look at other balance jobs at that shop and look at how many parts are ground on. The more, the better. Don't forget to ask tolerances at different shops before deciding who to use.
I was told at the PRI show by several companies:"we balance our parts to +_ 6 or 8 grams, it's automotive factory industry standards.
But aren't we trying to make more HP than factory? Why wouldn't we want it better?
The worst factory balances I ever saw were 60s, 70s, and 80s MOPARS.
TIMINATOR

 

[SFEbody]

I just wanted to post my extreme frustration with Scat Enterprises. I ordered a rotating assembly on August 6th. I was told 4-6 weeks for delivery. They take 50% of the cost up front. On the 6th week I called and was told they were waiting on the pistons, everything else was there. Three weeks after that I called again and was told they were waiting on the main bearings, everything else was there. I called today and was told everything is there except the connecting rods. In addition, half of the other calls I made and left a message were never returned. Not sure if I am an exception to the norm, but at this point I would recommend anyone here using some other supplier.

John, go with a Gen 3, you wont regrit it. I am here to help if you need it

 

[Juan Veldez]

John, go with a Gen 3, you wont regrit it. I am here to help if you need it

I have a 340 warranty block and I just can't not build it. I love the look of the old school engine.

 

[Juan Veldez]

Just a follow up. After requesting Scat to return my 50% deposit, they did. And they did not charge me the 20% restocking/cancellation fee, which would have been salt in the wound. Prop's for them for doing the right thing when requesting my money back. Just wanted to get that out there.

 

[Juan Veldez]

Balance from scat, eagle, and others is weigh 1 rod each end, one piston, rings, and look at their cheat sheet for bearing weight, calculate, and make up the bob weights and spin the crank. Last I heard from Tom Leib that's the way "everyone" does it." Plus or minus around 6 grams.
Rods are advertised as weight matched sets, again, plus or minus 4 grams. Problem is the formula uses1 piston, 1 set of rings, 2 sets of bearings, 2 large ends of rods, 1 small end of a rod, and 4 gms oil for small blocks and 5 or 6 for big blocks.
"Weight matched" rods are TOTAL rod weight, not 4 grams for small and 4 grams for big end. I regularly see rod sets that the big end varies by 8 or 10 gas, and small ends by as much as 8 or 10 also. Add that to + or minus 4 grams, and you can see that bobweights can be off by more than 12 grams.
Reputable shops balance all small and big ends separately, weigh and balance all pistons, and use actual bearing weights.
I haven't seen anybodys aftermarket "factory balance" within 12 grams (rebalanced by a reputable race shop)in years! Mallory "heavy metal" balance is a bargain from crank companies, as installing Mallory is labor intensive. Buy the kit "balanced" and take it to a real machineshop for touch up. LS stroker motors generally need Mallory, as do big strokes.
How to tell a good balance is by usually 1 rod of a set has no grind marks and the others do. Same with pistons. The heaviest rod small end is usually not the same rod as the heaviest big end. That's the real problem.
Look at other balance jobs at that shop and look at how many parts are ground on. The more, the better. Don't forget to ask tolerances at different shops before deciding who to use.
I was told at the PRI show by several companies:"we balance our parts to +_ 6 or 8 grams, it's automotive factory industry standards.
But aren't we trying to make more HP than factory? Why wouldn't we want it better?
The worst factory balances I ever saw were 60s, 70s, and 80s MOPARS.
TIMINATOR

Thanks for your comments. There are two shops near me that come highly recommended, so I will hit both up with your questions and go with the best answers. Cheers!