Is Scat Enterprises now a scam?

[TIMINATOR]

Usually I race "Just enough to win the turkey", but I knew I would never see this guy again and just couldn't resist really sticking it to him!
If anyone wants to understand the phrase, I will explain. Otherwise know it's REALLY funny....
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[Xcudame]

@Juan Veldez make sure when you order from Mancini, you call them to place the order and ask the appropriate questions regarding your rotating assembly. If they don't have it in stock, ask for a worst case estimate of them delivering it. They're pretty great. There's a reason they're one of the oldest Mopar (Direct Connection!) distributers out there!

Regarding sleepers, before my son got his 2015 Challenger Scat Pack (second one thanks to the local deputy sheriff destroying it), he drove my 1996 Dodge Neon 2 door with three shades of gray paint ( 47 shades short ) and a 175 horse power 2.0. It surprises a lot of unsuspecting fools! Love the sleeper look!

 

[Juan Veldez]

@Juan Veldez make sure when you order from Mancini, you call them to place the order and ask the appropriate questions regarding your rotating assembly. If they don't have it in stock, ask for a worst case estimate of them delivering it. They're pretty great. There's a reason they're one of the oldest Mopar (Direct Connection!) distributers out there!

Regarding sleepers, before my son got his 2015 Challenger Scat Pack (second one thanks to the local deputy sheriff destroying it), he drove my 1996 Dodge Neon 2 door with three shades of gray paint ( 47 shades short ) and a 175 horse power 2.0. It surprises a lot of unsuspecting fools! Love the sleeper look!

Thanks for the advise. Yes, I will be a little more hands on this time. I may just order all the parts separately and have a local racing shop balance the rotating assembly. Still waiting on Scat to refund my money.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Balance from scat, eagle, and others is weigh 1 rod each end, one piston, rings, and look at their cheat sheet for bearing weight, calculate, and make up the bob weights and spin the crank. Last I heard from Tom Leib that's the way "everyone" does it." Plus or minus around 6 grams.
Rods are advertised as weight matched sets, again, plus or minus 4 grams. Problem is the formula uses1 piston, 1 set of rings, 2 sets of bearings, 2 large ends of rods, 1 small end of a rod, and 4 gms oil for small blocks and 5 or 6 for big blocks.
"Weight matched" rods are TOTAL rod weight, not 4 grams for small and 4 grams for big end. I regularly see rod sets that the big end varies by 8 or 10 gas, and small ends by as much as 8 or 10 also. Add that to + or minus 4 grams, and you can see that bobweights can be off by more than 12 grams.
Reputable shops balance all small and big ends separately, weigh and balance all pistons, and use actual bearing weights.
I haven't seen anybodys aftermarket "factory balance" within 12 grams (rebalanced by a reputable race shop)in years! Mallory "heavy metal" balance is a bargain from crank companies, as installing Mallory is labor intensive. Buy the kit "balanced" and take it to a real machineshop for touch up. LS stroker motors generally need Mallory, as do big strokes.
How to tell a good balance is by usually 1 rod of a set has no grind marks and the others do. Same with pistons. The heaviest rod small end is usually not the same rod as the heaviest big end. That's the real problem.
Look at other balance jobs at that shop and look at how many parts are ground on. The more, the better. Don't forget to ask tolerances at different shops before deciding who to use.
I was told at the PRI show by several companies:"we balance our parts to +_ 6 or 8 grams, it's automotive factory industry standards.
But aren't we trying to make more HP than factory? Why wouldn't we want it better?
The worst factory balances I ever saw were 60s, 70s, and 80s MOPARS.
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