LOST INTERIOR POWER

[Lee W.]

1972 cuda Had to jump start the car it started ran for about 15 minutes turned it off. went to auto parts got new battery hooked it up now I lost power to the whole interior. ignition switch, head lights, turn signal, dash lights. not the battery can jump across the solenoid engine turns over wont start. Thanks for any help you can give

 

[pschlosser]

make sure to grab your PDF of the service manual, for your reference. The wiring diagram will show the majority of interior power is fed from the battery POS terminal, through the fusible link (these can blow) and on to the bulkhead connector, where it is picked up by the fuse box and interior wiring distribution.

Since the battery was recently fiddled with, I'd start at the battery POS terminal, and follow the flow back through to the fuse box and ignition key.

Did you change anything other that the battery? Perhaps the battery cables? Is the GROUND to engine and chassis still good? You may have something simple like a loose connection near the battery on the fender well.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Clean the battery terminals so the shine like a new nickel. Fuse able link start there. move it around see if things come on. Then the bulk head connector. then the plug under the steering column. Check battery grounds.

 

[Bret Schneider]

Probably blew the fusible link.
Low battery voltage will result in higher current draw across the link.

 

[Lee W.]

make sure to grab your PDF of the service manual, for your reference. The wiring diagram will show the majority of interior power is fed from the battery POS terminal, through the fusible link (these can blow) and on to the bulkhead connector, where it is picked up by the fuse box and interior wiring distribution.

Since the battery was recently fiddled with, I'd start at the battery POS terminal, and follow the flow back through to the fuse box and ignition key.

Did you change anything other that the battery? Perhaps the battery cables? Is the GROUND to engine and chassis still good? You may have something simple like a loose connection near the battery on the fender well.

Ill try to check fusible link tomorrow. the battery is not the probably it is located in the trunk and I have power to the engine compartment. I do have a pdf manual will try to follow it. Thanks for getting back to me

 

[Lee W.]

Clean the battery terminals so the shine like a new nickel. Fuse able link start there. move it around see if things come on. Then the bulk head connector. then the plug under the steering column. Check battery grounds.

Not the battery. battery is located in trunk and i have power to the engine compartment. hoping not bulk head connector. Don't how to repair that. thanks for getting back to me.

 

[Lee W.]

Probably blew the fusible link.
Low battery voltage will result in higher current draw across the link.

I am hoping you are right. but it is probably too easy! nothing has been easy on this car. will try to check it out tomorrow and let you know. thanks for getting back to me.

 

[pschlosser]

ahh, battery in the trunk, that is VERY good to know. the number of things to check has gone up. In many cases, when owners are having power problems, and the battery is in the trunk, the cabling can indeed be the issue.

a good friend talked me out of relocating my battery to the trunk. he taught me moving it to the trunk can increase overall weight, because the cabling running from rear to front. Still, it's a common change for some.

if the battery is far from the fusible link (normally located on the driver side fender well of the engine compartment) I would first confirm the battery connections from the trunk to the chassis and starter motor (and others) is full functioning. The fusible link can indeed blow, but I've never had one blow in many cars, many years. Simply checking continuity with a DMM will tell you if it's happy.

 

[Lee W.]

ahh, battery in the trunk, that is VERY good to know. the number of things to check has gone up. In many cases, when owners are having power problems, and the battery is in the trunk, the cabling can indeed be the issue.

a good friend talked me out of relocating my battery to the trunk. he taught me moving it to the trunk can increase overall weight, because the cabling running from rear to front. Still, it's a common change for some.

if the battery is far from the fusible link (normally located on the driver side fender well of the engine compartment) I would first confirm the battery connections from the trunk to the chassis and starter motor (and others) is full functioning. The fusible link can indeed blow, but I've never had one blow in many cars, many years. Simply checking continuity with a DMM will tell you if it's happy.

I am still working on it when I can. I have already removed a mile of elec. tape and still no fusible link

 

[Challenger RTA]

Not the battery. battery is located in trunk and i have power to the engine compartment. hoping not bulk head connector. Don't how to repair that. thanks for getting back to me.

Not a problem. We can work through that.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Since you have power to the engine compartment, we'll say the grounds are good. Need to see how you have + connected. Is there a fusible link? The below is a guess of your problem until it is known how it is wired.

Before you start tearing into things. Check to see if you have power at the fuse box terminal marked BATT. If no power there it might be the bulkhead connector. Then check for power at this connector under the steering column. Red is the battery and when the ignition switch is on black is power to the acc side of fuse box. Make sure the plug is pushed together. Check on both sides of the plug.

 

[Lee W.]

Will check this afternoon.

 

[Edsfn69]

1972 cuda Had to jump start the car it started ran for about 15 minutes turned it off. went to auto parts got new battery hooked it up now I lost power to the whole interior. ignition switch, head lights, turn signal, dash lights. not the battery can jump across the solenoid engine turns over wont start. Thanks for any help you can give

I had the same issue. It was the red wire in the multi plug at the bottom of the steering column. They are loose fitting and cause resistance creating a hot spot and ultimately burning up. I replaced mine with a new harness and had the same issue after about a dozen starting cycles. This is a know issue.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Chrysler did not spend a penny more on better gauge wire on our old girls. Between the multi connector at the bottom of the steering column and the bulkhead connector, these are the most common trouble spots. If you don't already have a good sized bypass wire from the alternator to the starter relay... you should (with a fuse block or fusible link for safety). This will prevent the high amperage from going through the small gauge bulkhead connector wiring. It will also cause the ammeter to no longer function, which is not all bad. Better to install a voltmeter anyway.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I had the same issue. It was the red wire in the multi plug at the bottom of the steering column. They are loose fitting and cause resistance creating a hot spot and ultimately burning up. I replaced mine with a new harness and had the same issue after about a dozen starting cycles. This is a know issue.

Amp meter bypass is a fix of the few that should be done. Even with a new harness. The other stock high current loads are the headlights. Headlight relay circuit. Fan motor for climate control or change, Rear defroster, power windows. At that point there should be a small aux fuse box under the dash. Sized for needs. All loads should come off the alternator. If the amp meter bypass is connected to the battery, starter stud or starter relay it is the same electrically.

 

[Lee W.]

Since you have power to the engine compartment, we'll say the grounds are good. Need to see how you have + connected. Is there a fusible link? The below is a guess of your problem until it is known how it is wired.

Before you start tearing into things. Check to see if you have power at the fuse box terminal marked BATT. If no power there it might be the bulkhead connector. Then check for power at this connector under the steering column. Red is the battery and when the ignition switch is on black is power to the acc side of fuse box. Make sure the plug is pushed together. Check on both sides of the plug.View attachment 154436View attachment 154435

 

[Lee W.]

check fuse box no power to any. checked red wire all the way to firewall from starter relay. had power. ran jumper wire from relay to fuse box, got a bussing noise. put jumper to acc got blinker. came in to wright this reply and noticed rear clarence light on. checked headlight they came on. turned key on to start and engine turned over. so problem solved. Now my problem is how did it fix itself and what should i do keep it fixed?

 

[Lee W.]

I had the same issue. It was the red wire in the multi plug at the bottom of the steering column. They are loose fitting and cause resistance creating a hot spot and ultimately burning up. I replaced mine with a new harness and had the same issue after about a dozen starting cycles. This is a know issue.

will check there