• Welcome to For E Bodies Only !

    We are a community of Plymouth Cuda and Dodge Challenger owners. Join now! Its Free!

Need help on where and how to begin

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona

Online cudachuck

Body panels


Im going to be installing subframe connectors and replacing the tail panel, trunk extensions and quarter panels on my cuda. My question is do i want the car to be on its own suspension, rotisserie or jack stands? Or is there a better way to do this? Also should i do 1 panel at a time or take all the metal off at once? thanks
 

Adam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
1,648
Reaction score
709
Location
Washington
If not messing with the rear frame rails, I would have it sitting on its suspension. The trunk, tail and extensions can come out, but I would do the 1/4s one at a time after that. I would still probably support the back end (lower 1/4s) otherwise the rear sheet metal might sag. Don’t forget the gas tank supports welded to the bottom of the trunk pan, probably better to weld them to the pan before installation. Take pictures and measurements, tail panel to floor, etc.
 

moparleo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
6,949
Reaction score
1,747
Location
So. Cal. Riverside area Moreno Valley
Have you done this type of repairs before ? If not I would not just rely on any forums recommendations. Check with reputable body shops that work on early Mopars and you also need chassis/body dimensions and proper tools.
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
If not messing with the rear frame rails, I would have it sitting on its suspension. The trunk, tail and extensions can come out, but I would do the 1/4s one at a time after that. I would still probably support the back end (lower 1/4s) otherwise the rear sheet metal might sag. Don’t forget the gas tank supports welded to the bottom of the trunk pan, probably better to weld them to the pan before installation. Take pictures and measurements, tail panel to floor, etc.
The trunk floor is good... So just the tail panel, extensions and quarter panels..
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
Have you done this type of repairs before ? If not I would not just rely on any forums recommendations. Check with reputable body shops that work on early Mopars and you also need chassis/body dimensions and proper tools.
This is my 1st time doing this.ive done floorpans before . Where can i find the demensions and what would be some of the tools needed...
 
Last edited:

Adam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
1,648
Reaction score
709
Location
Washington
This is my 1st time doing this.ive done floorpans before . Where can i find the demensions and what would be some of the tools needed...
You will need some good quality spot weld cutters (American made, not Chinese). A good thin, but sharp chisel. At least half a dozen c clamps and vise grips. A box of sheet metal screws; sometimes you need to screw panels together, then weld up the holes after you remove them. I would also get a bottle of Ospho to treat any rust you find, and a tube of seam sealer. (You can smooth it by wiping it with mineral spirits). When done prime it right away, the black coating on new metal is porous and will allow rust to start. Good luck and post some pics.
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
You will need some good quality spot weld cutters (American made, not Chinese). A good thin, but sharp chisel. At least half a dozen c clamps and vise grips. A box of sheet metal screws; sometimes you need to screw panels together, then weld up the holes after you remove them. I would also get a bottle of Ospho to treat any rust you find, and a tube of seam sealer. (You can smooth it by wiping it with mineral spirits). When done prime it right away, the black coating on new metal is porous and will allow rust to start. Good luck and post some pics.
Thanks and will do
 

70chall440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
1,260
Reaction score
981
Location
Western Washington
This isn't rocket science and while it is a fair bit of work it isn't that hard. I agree with doing one at a time. Think about how all the parts interact with one another and that will give you an idea of what order you should do them in, however "if it were me" I would probably do the tail panel first so that I have a reference in the back, then the trunk floor extensions and then one quarter at a time. I am sure someone will have a better idea but in my mind thats what I would "probably" do.

I put quarters on my 73 Cuda and that was my first time, I literally used a plasma cutter and whacked off about 3/4 of each one, then drilled out the spot welds and cut out the remainder and at that point I didn't any any quarters on the car (did have the tail panel). I installed new quarters which took a little time but they came out great.

Again, not that hard, go slow and think it through. Clecos and clamps are your friends to be sure. also self tapping screws are awesome doing this. Screw, clamp or Cleco things together long before you weld anything. Once everything fits, the gaps are good (trunk lid), and the rear valance fits right then you can start welding.

Look up junkerup on youtube, he does primarily Chargers but you will see a lot of tips and tricks that will transfer over to what you are doing or want to do.
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
This isn't rocket science and while it is a fair bit of work it isn't that hard. I agree with doing one at a time. Think about how all the parts interact with one another and that will give you an idea of what order you should do them in, however "if it were me" I would probably do the tail panel first so that I have a reference in the back, then the trunk floor extensions and then one quarter at a time. I am sure someone will have a better idea but in my mind thats what I would "probably" do.

I put quarters on my 73 Cuda and that was my first time, I literally used a plasma cutter and whacked off about 3/4 of each one, then drilled out the spot welds and cut out the remainder and at that point I didn't any any quarters on the car (did have the tail panel). I installed new quarters which took a little time but they came out great.

Again, not that hard, go slow and think it through. Clecos and clamps are your friends to be sure. also self tapping screws are awesome doing this. Screw, clamp or Cleco things together long before you weld anything. Once everything fits, the gaps are good (trunk lid), and the rear valance fits right then you can start welding.

Look up junkerup on youtube, he does primarily Chargers but you will see a lot of tips and tricks that will transfer over to what you are doing or want to do.
Thanks and will do!!
 

Challenger RTA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Messages
2,699
Reaction score
1,359
Location
PA Flood city
I have done more extensive repairs then what you are about to take on.the advice others are giving it good. measure twice cut once. One time I cut a board twice and it was still to sort! measurements ,pictures and backup files. E body parts are they same but all different. REMEMBER THINK 3D. pull measurements use floor walls ceiling inside car structure. Note body panels are lined up from 1/4 panels forward.
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
I have done more extensive repairs then what you are about to take on.the advice others are giving it good. measure twice cut once. One time I cut a board twice and it was still to sort! measurements ,pictures and backup files. E body parts are they same but all different. REMEMBER THINK 3D. pull measurements use floor walls ceiling inside car structure. Note body panels are lined up from 1/4 panels forward.
Ok thanks... Would you do fame connectors first before cutting tail panel out?
 

moparroy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
125
Reaction score
61
Location
Rockwood, Ontario
I did all that plus the trunk floor on my Cuda project over the past several years. I stripped the body completely first - so I had it sitting on jack stands on a rolling dolly to be able to get to both sides of the car. If you are not removing the drive train and suspension I would leave it sitting on the suspension otherwise the unsprung weight might cause issues (mine was all removed). Do lots and lots of test fittings. The (repro) quarters and extensions fit with the rear valence takes a lot of finessing in my experience - I spent several months (part time) on that alone. Probably a hundred times the quarters went on for test fits and then off again for adjustments. I did most of the adjustment in the quarters - some in the extensions - the valence was a NOS part so did not really adjust it much. The fitting of the extensions with the outer wheel house was a bit easier - but again lots of test fits with clamps and sheet metal screws. I took everything off first - and started reassembly with the trunk floor. Oh and be mindful of the welds on the ends of the rear tail panel - the tail panel has to be welded in before quarters if you are using quarter skins - I did not do full quarters just skins. I did all mine with a mig welder and plug welds - except for the top of the quarter skin which I did with a butt weld. Eastwood butt weld clamps a good investment. For rough fitting I overlapped the top of the quarter with sheet metal screws - then when ready to weld took a body saw and cut section at a time and inserted the butt clamps and after a few were set put in a few well spaced stitch welds. Work slow on the welds to keep everything cool - successive welds far apart initially but make sure they are fit with clamps between. Make sure the whole thing fits together roughly with clamps and screws before you weld the first piece. Good luck! Mine turned out great - lots of time thinking and planning - the pro who painted the car even complimented me on it for a newbie - the only job like that I have ever done.
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
Would anyone be willing to let me contact them for advice as im going through this restoration?
 

70chall440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
1,260
Reaction score
981
Location
Western Washington
Just start a build thread or us this one. If you need immediate help dial... oh wait... sorry.. :) But if you need some immediate help I am sure we can collectively be of assistance or you can PM individuals. I don't know about anyone else but I am on here pretty much daily multiple times a day (being retired has its perks but doesn't pay all that well).
 

Cudachuck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2021
Messages
187
Reaction score
23
Location
Arizona
I will start by doing the subframe connectors and torque boxes.

Only thing on my shell is trunk lid, fenders and hood. It sits on 4 tires but shocks are installed and only 1 torsion bar...lol

Should i put the doors back on, shocks and torsion bar, to install the subframe connectors and torque boxes? Or take everything off and put it on jack stands or rotisserie?
 

Challenger RTA

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Messages
2,699
Reaction score
1,359
Location
PA Flood city
As a mechanic once said.fix it now or fix it latter. 1st Picture used from Hot Rod. I did mine inside. Box in the torsion bar socket. yellow arrow. do it like the black arrow. Use 2 u shaped for front and back of socket.fit other metal for box. go a few inches on each side would be good. weld all together. I seen an outside repair kit for this.it's a cap that goes over top. the socket takes a lot of torsion force. there are reinforcement you can do later. front K frame strut mount and lower control arms if you choose.
 

Attachments

  • chrysler-torsion-bar-trial-fit-crossmember.jpg
    chrysler-torsion-bar-trial-fit-crossmember.jpg
    66.3 KB · Views: 138
  • k_frame_reinforcement_mopar_6.JPG
    k_frame_reinforcement_mopar_6.JPG
    466 KB · Views: 145
  • control arm.jpg
    control arm.jpg
    10.9 KB · Views: 142
Back
Top