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No start or turn over on 70 Cuda

Bama-man

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I have all of the wiring harnesses and wiring back into my car turn ignition and nothing. It will turn over if I jump the starter relay but nothing from the switch. I checked VDC on yellow wire at the starter rely 3.5 vdc. I took the fuse block off and cleaned up connections still nothing checked inside under dash on wires from ignition switch still no vdc at connector. Is it possible that the ignition switch is bad ? any ideas from the mopar crew !
 

Bama-man

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Are you talking about the fuse link at the starter relay if so I have 12vdc on both sides of it all the way down to the starter, but tomorrow I will trace it thru the bulkhead into the car I'm getting voltage at the fuse block but no dash lights and I'm getting power at the side marker lights when the switch is on thanks for responding
 

70chall440

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So you are getting 12V to the fuse box? Then I would test/trace the wires coming out of the column and see what is going on there. Perhaps your column connector is not seated/making contact.
 

Bama-man

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So you are getting 12V to the fuse box? Then I would test/trace the wires coming out of the column and see what is going on there. Perhaps your column connector is not seated/making contact.
I checked the wires at the connector connecting ignition wires I think I only had 1 wire that was reading 12vdc the harness and bulk head look almost new not worn at all. I traced the yellow wire at ign. steering column no vdc
 

Chryco Psycho

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yes it is possible to have a bad switch in the column , JS Restorations can rebuild it for you .
 

Challenger RTA

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When ign is on and jump starter relay,does it start?Remember there a two ing circuits. start and run. also two power feeds when motor running,alt and battery. black alt feeds into fuse box acc side,red battery feed. make sure steering column connector is connected. I remember it is a tight fit.wiggle and squiggle push and pull twist and turn.check the simple thing first before you condemn. I believe that is the a picture of turn signal plug. but just want to give you an idea what to do.

20210527_130305.jpg


20210528_191914.jpg
 
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dodj

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I think the 3.5 volts on the yellow wire is the real 'tell' here. If that is a correct reading, the Solenoid will not operate. With the key in the 'start' position, put a meter on the yellow wire at the column connector. Sometimes half of the bullet connector backs out of the plastic molding- check. If no 12v there, check for 12v on the big red wire to ensure there is 12v being supplied.
If you have 12v at the column connector, remove the engine side of the B/H and check with a meter there. Should narrow down where you are losing the 12v
 

Bama-man

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I think the 3.5 volts on the yellow wire is the real 'tell' here. If that is a correct reading, the Solenoid will not operate. With the key in the 'start' position, put a meter on the yellow wire at the column connector. Sometimes half of the bullet connector backs out of the plastic molding- check. If no 12v there, check for 12v on the big red wire to ensure there is 12v being supplied.
If you have 12v at the column connector, remove the engine side of the B/H and check with a meter there. Should narrow down where you are losing the 12v
thanks for your response I got it worked out found the problem.
 
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