starting issue continues

[transam]

Thought I got her all fixed. Took her to a car show this morning. Car fired right up. Drove a mile down the road to the show. While pulling in there she stalled and would not fire back up. Just turned over and over. Lots of car guys there. One guy bypassed the resistor and car still did not start. He started asking about the coil. I told him I just bought that coil from Summit last week and the car seemed to be starting fine for a few tries. He had a spare MSD coil and swapped it out for me as I had no tools with me. Car started right up and now again seems to be fine?? Is the Summit coil JUNK or could my ignition box do something tho the brand new coil to cause it to go bad????

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I usually used the Pertronix high output coils , reliable & reasonably priced .
Given most parts are made in China probably defective

 

[transam]

I usually used the Pertronix high output coils , reliable & reasonably priced .
Given most parts are made in China probably defective

Ya I am looking at Petronix. Says they are made in the USA. I am just trying to figure out the different ohm ratings and whether I should leave my ballast resistor which is a single one in place or not. Not sure why the different ohm ratings on the coils? Plus one person told me to get oil filled as it is cooler, but the Petronix site says not to install them horizontal, which is where mine is located. And I am trying hard to keep the original car look on my T/A.... But I did upgrade it years ago with the Mopar Performance ECU setup.

 

[Challenger RTA]

While pulling in there she stalled and would not fire back up.

That is when you put the parking brake on and don't touch a thing. ( Hopefully you are in a safe spot.) Leaving the ignition switch on. With a test light check the BATT terminal on the bottom of the fuse box for power. If you have power there. Check the red wire on the steering column plug. (Both sides) If you don't have power at the fuse box BATT terminal. It is connector 16 red wire bulkhead connector.

When you start touching connectors you just might remake the connection.

Than opening the hood. Then at the resistor blue wire check for power . The other side of the resistor will be a dimmer due to less voltage. If you don't have it there check the bulkhead connector for power. Then if not there back to the steering column plug blue/white (Run) and brown is start wire.

When you know you have power there you can move on to the next area
Hint the next time it happens Fonz the steering column plug. Ayyyy



Follow the dots. Understand how it's wired first. Blue charge circuit, yellow battery supply, red ACC circuit. Headlight sw is feed from splice one under dash.
One word explains the wiring and connections. Inadequate! Read Description and follow the dots. The wiring is not heavy enough and the connection were not designed to carry that much amperage 1:RED wire 16 Battery power yellow dot to splice one feeds fuse block, 2:charge wire 18 black wire blue dots to splice one through amp meter to red wire blue dot 16 to battery, 3:ACC feed from splice 1 Red wire Q3_12R yellow dot to steering column. Black wire 12BK red dot to ACC side of fuse box.ch load. The round back alt has an output of 37 to 45 amps max and the wiring is designed for that.
When everything is in good shape.

Red wire problem

 

[Challenger RTA]

While pulling in there she stalled and would not fire back up.

I could run a number of scenarios on this. But want to keep it simple. When turning there is movement in a connection or wiring. Ignition switch, column plug, bulkhead plug or other. It has to be narrowed down. You have to catch in the act.

You might be able to find it by connecting a test light at different locations as describe. then move the wire around and you might find it.

But here again it could be a ignition component or ground. It is a process of elimination. Eliminate the possibilities and it gets narrowed down.

I can surmise that if it cuts out and won't start.

The battery and the alternator both feed power to splice one. In turn you loose one the ignition would still work.
If it is not an ignition component coil , resistor or ignition module.

Plan and simple. Because it was turning over, it's one of the two connector blue/ white wire run, brown wire start. Bulkhead, column connector or ignition switch.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Most coils are oil filled for cooling , the MSD leaks horizontal , I didn't have problem with the Pertronix mounted horizonal

 

[Challenger RTA]

I have been having issues with my motor actually only starting when I release the key?? Car ran fine for many years, As a precaution I installed a new ballast resistor, a new coil, and a new orange box. I did replace the ignition key several months ago and it was starting fine after replacing it, so this seems to be something new?? I have not done anything with the starter relay?? I am running out of things to check. I did check the connections at th bulkhead connector and also at the ignition switch harness under the steering column. They appeared to be fine. Any ideas. The car turns over fine but will not fire until I release the key??

So this is where you are at. New coil, ECM, Ballast resistor, Ignition switch.

Lets say you did the above and found it all checks out good.

The grounds can and will be a problem. If I remember correctly you addressed the problem. I will post a diagram that shows the grounds that are over looked at times.
The distributor needs a ground if it's point distributor.

As said above let's say all the parts you changed are good. It keeps going back the run and start circuit. Bad, connection or ignition ground. There is on other thing that does act erratic. Electronic components 99% of the time work or they don't. Electrical connections and components will act erratic until a complete failure.
The one thing that wasn't addressed is the distributor. The pickup coil in the distributor will act that way or the connection any connection. Even a ground.

 

[transam]

So this is where you are at. New coil, ECM, Ballast resistor, Ignition switch.

Lets say you did the above and found it all checks out good.

The grounds can and will be a problem. If I remember correctly you addressed the problem. I will post a diagram that shows the grounds that are over looked at times.
The distributor needs a ground if it's point distributor.

View attachment 155869
As said above let's say all the parts you changed are good. It keeps going back the run and start circuit. Bad, connection or ignition ground. There is on other thing that does act erratic. Electronic components 99% of the time work or they don't. Electrical connections and components will act erratic until a complete failure.
The one thing that wasn't addressed is the distributor. The pickup coil in the distributor will act that way or the connection any connection. Even a ground.

So, I am going crazy. This morning I took my old original coil PN 2495531 Mopar Made in USA. I ran a resistance test with my ohm meter and found it to be in range and then I tested secondary and fount that to be in range. Then I took the brand new Summit one and it tested exactly the same. But when the guy at the car show installed his MSD distributor, the car started right up. So I am really confused here. Petronix told me that I should test it at 200 degrees as well, to see if it is failing when heating up. But how can both of them be doing this?? I am going to buy a new fluke meter as the one I have is a cheap needle one.

 

[Katfish]

Sounds like an intermittent problem, maybe heat related.
You change things and it works, not necessarily the part changed, maybe just cooling down.
I'd check and adjust the reluctor on the distributor, easy to do and doesn't cost anything.