Stripped Sheet Metal Holes

[money pit]

What is everyone doing with stripped sheet metal holes? The easiest thing is to get a larger screw. But what do you do with the holes for the sil plates or other areas that are visible? I tried JB weld Steelstik, that didn't work. Should I use the liquid epoxy or thread lock? Thanks

 

[Katfish]

As mentioned, I went with a larger screw on my sill plates.
My next step would be to use a Nutsert.

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

I bought a sheet metal nut insert that worked very well for items like the side mirrors mounted on the doors.
I recently replaced my tired chrome drivers mirror and added a passenger mirror with aftermarket painted mirrors using sheet metal nut inserts;

I know, I hate buying from Amazon, but this things works great!!!

 

[floyd]

I’ve seen recommendations to use a piece of solid copper wire fed into to the hole while twisting the screw in place.

I saw an older post on a restoration forum where a guy recommended using some older GM or Ford brass or copper emblem barrel clips. I’ve never been able to find anything other than steel or spring steel barrel clips however, which are too hard.

Seems like a great idea for a auto restoration product. A soft metal press-in insert that would jam into place while inserting the original size screw.

 

[Rich Followell]

Depends where the hole is if your lucky enough and can get something behind it and hammer it back flat.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I also did the starter relay. I can be problematic. A smaller nut, bolt and washers can also tighten the hole up.

 

[money pit]

I bought a sheet metal nut insert that worked very well for items like the side mirrors mounted on the doors.
I recently replaced my tired chrome drivers mirror and added a passenger mirror with aftermarket painted mirrors using sheet metal nut inserts;
View attachment 143739
I know, I hate buying from Amazon, but this things works great!!!

Thanks. I'm just the opposite. I buy Amazon since it's free shipping and you know if they have the item.

 

[money pit]

I also did the starter relay. I can be problematic. A nut, bolt and washers can also tighten the hole up.

View attachment 143757

View attachment 143758

Looks great. I'll have to do the same. I currently use a nut and bolt for my voltage regulator. Thanks

 

[money pit]

Depends where the hole is if your lucky enough and can get something behind it and hammer it back flat.

Right now, it's just the sil plates. Thanks

 

[money pit]

I’ve seen recommendations to use a piece of solid copper wire fed into to the hole while twisting the screw in place.

I saw an older post on a restoration forum where a guy recommended using some older GM or Ford brass or copper emblem barrel clips. I’ve never been able to find anything other than steel or spring steel barrel clips however, which are too hard.

Seems like a great idea for a auto restoration product. A soft metal press-in insert that would jam into place while inserting the original size screw.

View attachment 143746

If this was wood instead of metal, I could jam a tooth pick in the hole for the screw to bite. I guess a copper wire would do the same. Thanks

 

[Chally]

I’ve seen recommendations to use a piece of solid copper wire fed into to the hole while twisting the screw in place.

I’ve had success tightly wrapping a small piece of copper wire in the threads of the screw, squeezing the wire ends in with needle nose pliers to ensure the wire is threaded into the hole with the screw. Worked on numerous locations on my Challenger.

 

[money pit]

I’ve had success tightly wrapping a small piece of copper wire in the threads of the screw, squeezing the wire ends in with needle nose pliers to ensure the wire is threaded into the hole with the screw. Worked on numerous locations on my Challenger.

Do you use a strand of wire from a certain gauge of wire (14 gage)? or do you use solid core wire? Thanks

 

[Chally]

Do you use a strand of wire from a certain gauge of wire (14 gage)? or do you use solid core wire? Thanks

I use solid copper wire, fairly small gauge to fit close to flush into the screw threads. I believe the wire I’ve used is from telephone line or thermostat line wiring left over from building my house…I found this approach more successful than bending the wire into an “L” shape and placing it into the hole as sometimes the screw pushes it out.

 

[money pit]

I use solid copper wire, fairly small gauge to fit close to flush into the screw threads. I believe the wire I’ve used is from telephone line or thermostat line wiring left over from building my house…I found this approach more successful than bending the wire into an “L” shape and placing it into the hole as sometimes the screw pushes it out.

Great idea. I'll give it a try. Thanks

 

[Xcudame]

Try @Chally fix first, then the inserts. A weld bead will also work (Oxy/Acetone, Stick or TIG) using a soft metal rod.

 

[money pit]

Try @Chally fix first, then the inserts. A weld bead will also work (Oxy/Acetone, Stick or TIG) using a soft metal rod.

Thanks. I have a MIG welder.

 

[TomIGo]

Would love to find out which method or methods you used and your success level.

 

[money pit]

Would love to find out which method or methods you used and your success level.

I tried all three methods to repair the stripped holes. The wire worked the best for the sil plates, the welds worked on larger holes, and the rivet nuts worked great on the firewall. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

 

[Xcudame]

Good job using a little of all!

 

[money pit]

Good job using a little of all!

Thanks