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Super Heavy Torsion Bars?

elnielsen

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Ok, I have got down to Firm Feel & Sway Away as best options with the new(er) crowd of really beefy bars, with clocking to offset such performance. $395 vs $339. I called Sway Away, the tech told me don't install their 1.24 or 1.20 foot pounds per inch torsion bars, those are race application for perfect pavement, they will cause the vehicle to skip when encountering a bump. Yet, I have been scouring 70-74 e body posts and like 5-7 guys say bigger better no problem whatsoever. They are not comfort guys, they are performance guys. I have a small block 318 car and I terrorize a windy mountain pass and drive like it's on rails. Just really leaning into lines and hoping my setup has me. The guys suggested their 1.08 or 1.14 bars and was hinting towards 1.08. I will be lowering the front end 2" and he said no problem because the clocking is to account for that. Will I regret not going higher than 1.14, if anyone with higher springs can attest?
 

moparleo

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It takes much more than springs to make a car handle. Their techs advice about too stiff of a spring ( that is what a torsion bar is, just a different type) is correct. Cornering is a package of the tire,wheel,spring rate, shock absorber. It must compliment each other. Just replacing one of the items will not give you great handling. Just as an overinflated tire will tend to bounce off the pavement when hitting a bump a spring that is too stiff will do the same thing. A properly performing suspension stays in contact with the road as much as possible or it loses control. Race tracks have ideal traction surfaces. No dips, pot holes or debris. Their tires have very thin sidewalls that they usually don't need to deflect and conform to any road irregularities. The suspension is the total of the tire, wheel, brake assembly, lower control arm (unsprung weight) and the rest of the upper suspension, springs, etc..sprung weight. The job of the shock absorber ( really a damper)) is to keep the tire/wheel assembly from bouncing off the pavement when ever it encounters a bump etc... The lighter the tire/wheel package, the easier it is for the spring and shock to keep it in control. If you want to know how a super stiff torsion bar would react, just imagine a go-kart at high speed with no suspension. Fine as long as the track is perfectly smooth but if not....
 

Drivun

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MoparLeo's assessment of street car suspension needs is correct. Herb Adams was the GM engineer who did the 70's Trans Am, raced the Silverbird and Grey Ghost Tempest in Trans Am ( great read : Blood Sweat and Gears), and contributed heavily to Corvette racing (http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/CorvetteHandling.pdf). He made big street car handling inroads pushing softer springs but stiff sway bars for all the reasons expressed above.

Twice on Power Tour Long Hauls, I've done 3500 miles on two lane and interstate across country running Hotchkis 1.1s supporting an aluminum headed stroked Magnum 5.9. Don't see a need for heavier bars unless I was running a heavier big block. Don't forget to pick a good tire since its the rubber that hits the road! I run 17/18 Michelin Pilot 4S tires since their an optimal summer tire with wet weather capabilities to let me run the Power Tour when it turns into the "Shower Tour".
 

70chall440

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I have 1.14 T bars in my 73 Cuda, they are very stiff. I have not driven it enough to be able to tell you that they are "too stiff" but I can tell you that they don't move much at all. Call Firm Feel and talk to them, they road race cars and have a lot of experience with selecting the right T bars.
 

elnielsen

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Thank you guys for your input. It was Swayaway.com, I called and Scott, who talked me out of 1.24 and 1.20 right off the bat, said he absolutely agreed that 1.14 is too stiff for my application (which is treacherous mountain pass with many tight climbing and falling turns), where the stiff ones are made for smooth track pavement and will skip the car on bumps. Scott changed my order from 1.14 to 1.08 right before they shipped and I'll be happy with that.
 
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