Sway Bar Upgrade
- Thread starter Blaze74
- Start date
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
The Hotchkiss hollow bars are great but I Far prefer the way the factory rear bar is mounted rather than hanging the bar from the diff so I would be looking for a larger bar to fit the rear mounting points
I think @Mopar Mitch might have some good input on this one. I believe he had custom ones made if I recall correctly.
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
not that I have seen but it would be easy to modify .
Mitch is a good source for handling info !
Mitch is a good source for handling info !
rklein71
Well-Known Member
Firm Feel sells an upgrade rear sway bar that attaches like the original.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
While you are changing it, pay very close attention to the condition of the frame rail under the mounts. On my car, they were rotted out pretty badly under the bracket. Nothing that couldn't be fixed pretty easily with the welder and a patch, but you wouldn't want it to let go while driving.
Mopar Mitch
Well-Known Member
Blaze -- depending how far you want to go with the upgrades, I'd look at an entire new package. What's your intentions with the car? Here's some simple quick thoughts (assuming basic fun driving):
Front Sway bar... 1.25" (hollow)
Rear sway bar... stock is .75"... but I suggest a custom bar made at 1.0" (Firm Feel can make it); otherwise, the Hotchkis or Helwig rear bar under the axle is adjustable... set it a full stiff... I think Helwig's bar is 7/8" (better than Hothckis) I have a customer factory-style 1" bar and it balances the front 1.25" bar very well.
Torsion bars... assuming you have a small block, with or without A/C, I suggest at least 1.12~-1.15... as soon as you install anything larger than stock (~.89), you'll notice the difference... BUT then you'll say that you should've gone stiffer. So, at least 1.12-1.15... the 1.18 from Firm Feel or their 1.20-1.22-1.24 will be everlasting with satisfaction (they'll make you 1.24.... I have 1.24 and love them!).
Rear leafs... Firm Feel, Hothckis, others... typically rated ~160#/inch.... but you want to make certain that they are NOT high arch... you want them settled and relatively flay for best handling (and compromising for some load that you'd carry).
Shocks... spend the money and don't be cheap... today's double-adjustables are great and well worth the cost. IF not, then go with Bilsteins (the Hotchkis FOX are not bad).
Consider better seats... with good side bolster, and a smaller steering wheel -- assuming you have power steering, be certain you have the Saginaw pump... the Federal pump is not good at keeping up with rapid motion... and... eventually get your PS gear boix rebuilt to a level-3 firmness (Firm Feel or Steer & Gear can do it the same way. Everyone I know who had their ps box rebuilt less than the level-3 wishes they had gone with the level-3... I have level-3 and its excellent (further being a T/A box).
IF you want fast ratio power steering, be certain that you use the Fast Ratio Pitman arm, as well as the C-Body (~1970) longer idler arm... also called/referred to as the "fast ratio idler arm" which corrects the steering geometry left-right. IF you have headers, some brands clear a-ok (Hooker 5115, Hedman) other are questionable.
For your rims/tires, remember that shorter sidewalls increase road harshness, but are quicker for rapid steering response (autocross, etc.). You may want to eventually have at least two sets of rims/tires for your intentions... 60-series cruising; 50-45-40-35 series for autocross.
Also, consider changing your upper control arms... so many different suppliers... purpose is to get positive caster and some negative camber (keep toe at around zero)... adjustable (Hotchkis, SPC, Magnum Force), UCAs are preferred ... fixed UCAs would further benefit from the MOOG offset UCA bushings (installed reverse from their directions).
You may spend 1-2 years easily getting the car completed, as well as some increasing costs. All depends on how much you want to enjoy the car.
Good luck and MoPower to ya!
Front Sway bar... 1.25" (hollow)
Rear sway bar... stock is .75"... but I suggest a custom bar made at 1.0" (Firm Feel can make it); otherwise, the Hotchkis or Helwig rear bar under the axle is adjustable... set it a full stiff... I think Helwig's bar is 7/8" (better than Hothckis) I have a customer factory-style 1" bar and it balances the front 1.25" bar very well.
Torsion bars... assuming you have a small block, with or without A/C, I suggest at least 1.12~-1.15... as soon as you install anything larger than stock (~.89), you'll notice the difference... BUT then you'll say that you should've gone stiffer. So, at least 1.12-1.15... the 1.18 from Firm Feel or their 1.20-1.22-1.24 will be everlasting with satisfaction (they'll make you 1.24.... I have 1.24 and love them!).
Rear leafs... Firm Feel, Hothckis, others... typically rated ~160#/inch.... but you want to make certain that they are NOT high arch... you want them settled and relatively flay for best handling (and compromising for some load that you'd carry).
Shocks... spend the money and don't be cheap... today's double-adjustables are great and well worth the cost. IF not, then go with Bilsteins (the Hotchkis FOX are not bad).
Consider better seats... with good side bolster, and a smaller steering wheel -- assuming you have power steering, be certain you have the Saginaw pump... the Federal pump is not good at keeping up with rapid motion... and... eventually get your PS gear boix rebuilt to a level-3 firmness (Firm Feel or Steer & Gear can do it the same way. Everyone I know who had their ps box rebuilt less than the level-3 wishes they had gone with the level-3... I have level-3 and its excellent (further being a T/A box).
IF you want fast ratio power steering, be certain that you use the Fast Ratio Pitman arm, as well as the C-Body (~1970) longer idler arm... also called/referred to as the "fast ratio idler arm" which corrects the steering geometry left-right. IF you have headers, some brands clear a-ok (Hooker 5115, Hedman) other are questionable.
For your rims/tires, remember that shorter sidewalls increase road harshness, but are quicker for rapid steering response (autocross, etc.). You may want to eventually have at least two sets of rims/tires for your intentions... 60-series cruising; 50-45-40-35 series for autocross.
Also, consider changing your upper control arms... so many different suppliers... purpose is to get positive caster and some negative camber (keep toe at around zero)... adjustable (Hotchkis, SPC, Magnum Force), UCAs are preferred ... fixed UCAs would further benefit from the MOOG offset UCA bushings (installed reverse from their directions).
You may spend 1-2 years easily getting the car completed, as well as some increasing costs. All depends on how much you want to enjoy the car.
Good luck and MoPower to ya!
I really appreciate all the feedback concerning suspension replacement. Like a lot of things the more you research the grayer it appears. Not doing auto cross but would like a very good suspension. Thanks Mitch and entire site for your valuable responses.
gtxno1
Well-Known Member
Is the Hotchkis total package worth it rather then piece meal thanks
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
overall yes , when you change everything that is designed to work together you will get better results .
70chall440
Well-Known Member
In general probably but when it comes to suspension I personally prefer to buy from several vendors to get the end result I am after. Point in case is the front sway bar, Hotchkiss has a 1" tubular which I really like as opposed to the 7/8" from Firm Feel. US Car Tool has much better sub frame connectors than Hotchkiss IMO.
I just did an costing analysis for a complete suspension for my 71 Charger which includes everything under the car front and back and am getting parts from Firm Feel, QA1 and Hotchkiss.
gtxno1
Well-Known Member
Hi Guys what do you think of the newer spc upper control arms they look mighty beefy
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