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Troubleshooting help - Crank but no start

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I highly recommend NOT using FBO junk , all the systems I sold either filed or created far worse performance , even a $15 ECU works better . Their return policy is just as bad if you have a problem return it right ? Nope they say it works fine & do not refund .
Interesting. Not my experience at all, but have heard on other forums that they work very well.
 

Chryco Psycho

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I installed at least 6 systems , all failed or provided worse performance with Zero support from Don @ FBO and were replaced with better parts such as Rev-N-ator in a short time .
Another customer ordered his junk & the performance was way down , shipped it back to FBO they tested it & sent it back saying it was fine , he replaced it with a no name brand $15 ECU & the car ran much better .
Don't waste your $$
 

Ricks72Chlgr440

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I installed at least 6 systems , all failed or provided worse performance with Zero support from Don @ FBO and were replaced with better parts such as Rev-N-ator in a short time .
Another customer ordered his junk & the performance was way down , shipped it back to FBO they tested it & sent it back saying it was fine , he replaced it with a no name brand $15 ECU & the car ran much better .
Don't waste your $$
Just curious. How long ago did this happen? Did the customers use the recommended Flamethrower coil? Was the loss of performance at the track or in daily driving?
 

brotow

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Check the bulk head connector under the hood, Blue and gray wires, one wire is 12volts when cranking and the other is 12volts when on. Also check the connection of the red wire on the steering column. I had the same problem.
 

blubyou340

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Good morning,
I'm looking for some troubleshooting tips to help determine why my 1971 Challenger 440 6 pack/automatic will not start. Some background on the issue. The car was starting and running fine. While on a drive last weekend, the car randomly shut off while driving about 25-30 mph. There was no stumble or hesitation at all. It just turned off as if someone turned off the key. I pulled over and it fired right back up without issue. I continued on my drive of about 10 miles. Later on that night, it fired up without issue and I drove about 15 miles home. The following day, I went to start it and it would fire up, but as soon as I released the key from the start position, it would die right away. I suspected a fault ballast resistor. I ran a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive post on the coil. The car fired right up and stayed running even after releasing the key. In order to turn off the car, I removed the negative battery cable. The car was running for approx 3 mins before i shut it down with the neg battery cable. I removed the jumper wire and then picked up a new ballast resistor. I installed the new one and attempted to start the car. it would crank, but not start at all. I reinstalled the jumper wire and still it would crank and no start. I installed the old ballast resistor and still it will crank but no start. Any tips for troubleshooting this?
thanks,
Greg
This seems to come up alot, i vhave 2 challengers. Both 73 1 73 340 4 speed ralley 1 with a complete rebuilt. 71 340 auto i just finished. Complete resto in and out back to your prob , even in 1980 driving mine always some qjuirky prob. From ballast to therquad fires ri now ive had problems with my 71 340 i had everything perfect i put roller rockers with hyd lift shimed the pushrods perfect great oil pressure by the way someone posted to put the oil holes on the shaft on the bottom may stock stamps but no good on the roller rocks they go on top gives unreal 60 psi oil squirt. Nice .sorry for rattling on but im new and this is cool im not the only mech beating my head ( saying why oh why me ive done everthing to this damn engine give me some kind of a break im assuming your running a stock 73 electronic ign. By proform petronics and other malashian tiwan china viet ' you get it they definatley arent the same as original like lots of other crap i think you surged and killed your voltage regulater. Your ecm is maybe an issue. But doubt that they take alot of surge check all your wires seperate you dont have to know all the ohms , volts , amps milliamps just a good old elec tester with a bulb or make your own that cheap little wire will solve lots .check all your fuses hook batt up just turn the key on and then check every connection. The + pos on your coil if any thing is a dim light change it simple nas long as you have start and run run light will be dimmer start bright coil brightits either your volt reg coil bad ballast or melted wire or a wire with no insulation grounding out it sounds redneck but really its ussually simple leaving you feeling stupid. I am having a prob with my dis. Engine fires right up. Firt tg he coil wire to car was arching the cyl 6 5 and seven not firing checked all spark to all was good then checked spark to plugs good checked the lash and load umtine times everything umptine times put a different dis. I had in older other new . then they all fired but 5 and sevenput 3 diff set of wire s i used a r2 hei on my warlock 360 its bad ass. Could be your bulkhead plug ins clean up with baby screaw driver grease a little wiggle them in good that could kill the whole car check bulkhead for melted spots i hooked the main wires direct soldered no more guessing it gets oldi made a plate with silicon over the plug ins check start relay for hot this sounds like alot but maybe 30 mins im done fu##%€£& with this new e ngine im gonna put an hei on it lots of volts couple wires tack hook up i like authentic look better but im to old to break down and troublshoot on the vy pickup ner btdt. My 72 never. Skips a beat just a thought for ya and you can pickup 30 hp im doing it!!!! Good luck man hope i hellpd. P.s. i normally dont make one sentance guess im pissed at my car ive been on for 2 weeks!!!!! Usually takes me 15 minutes to run and time beakin done if i answer anymore questions on ebody it wont be this long sorry im venting creating a novel
 

GregD

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Have you tried the new ECU yet?

Yes, i ordered a new one via Mancini Racing. I installed last weekend. No luck. It still won't fire up. I have a new ignition switch on the way to see if that could be the issue. I also need to spend some time doing some troubleshooting mentioned above. I figured it couldn't hurt having a spare ECU on hand if that wasn't the problem.
 

Challenger RTA

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Here's a few ways to look at it.
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Old Mopar

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Do you have a volt meter? If not you are wasting everyone's time.
 

Challenger RTA

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In short. The use of a test light will narrow it down where the trouble is or not. A volt meter will confirm if it is a problem.
 
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